Jednog sumornog kišnog jutra probudila me Lidijina poruka. „Hoćeš li da idemo?” i u prilogu link za neko putovanje. Kada sam kliknula na link, otvorila se fb stranica Planinarsko-rekreativne sekcije Novog Sada i poziv na pešačenje kroz kanjon reke Nere, uz obilazak vodopada Beušnice. Priznajem: nisam znala gde se kanjon nalazi, a kada mi je Google rekao da je to u Rumuniji – odmah sam pristala! Lidijina poruka mi je itekako popravila dan.
Svi koji me poznaju i čitaju moje tekstove znaju koliko volim Rumuniju. Želela bih da vidim svaki njen kutak. Volim da pređem granicu i svakoga pozdravim rečima “buna ziuva”. Tako je bilo i na ovom putovanju.
Nije mi bilo teško ustati u 3h ujutro i krenuti ka Lokomotivi, gde nas je čekao jedan od vođa puta, Strahinja. U 4h smo krenuli put Rumunije, ka graničnom prelazu Kaluđerovo. Pre graničnog prelaza napravili smo.pauzu kod Bele crkve i uživali u pogledu na jedno od Belocrkvanskih jezera.
Nakon graničnog prelaza delilo nas je još pola sata vožnje makadamom od našeg odredišta – sela Sasca Romana, iz kog smo započeli naše pešačenje. Meštani sela, iako naviknuti na svakodnevne turističke ture kroz njihovo malo mesto, izvirivali su iz svojih kuća i zadovoljno se smešili grupi turista iz Srbije.
Bio je to topli prolećni dan – vreme „kao poručeno”. Kabanice smo ostavili u autobusu i rasterećeni krenuli ka visećem mostu nadomak sela.
Eh, taj viseći most, koji mi je pre polaska doneo toliko briga… Kao nekom ko se plaši visine, nije mi bilo lako da donesem odluku da se upustim u ovu avanturu. Pretražila sam fotografije po internetu, blogovima i forumima, kako bih se uverila da most nije strašan i da ja mogu da ga pređem. Priznajem da sam i posle toliko istraživanja imala trunku straha u sebi, ali strah je nestao čim smo do mosta stigli. Prešla sam ga za tili čas i bila ponosna na sebe.
Prilikom prelaska mosta pomagao nam je jedan pas – zvala sam ga odmila Puki jer su mi rumunska deca rekla da ta reč znači „mali pas, kuca ”. On nam je bio verni pratilac sve do samog kraja pešačenja, prošao je s nama i uspone i padove, a zauzvrat je od nas dobio mnogo ukusnih sendviča 😉
Sa druge strane reke Nere jedan deka je čuvao ovce i koze. Njegova kuća stajala je usamljeno ispod brda, a on je sedeo na jednom panju uživajući na prolećnom suncu. Nismo želeli da mu uplašimo stado, te smo ga samo posmatrali. Čekali smo da svi članovi grupe pređu most, a zatim smo nastavili dalje, ostavljajući deku sa njegovim stadom u idiličnoj prirodi.
Nakon prelaska mosta nastavili smo ka kanjonu Nere, kroz netaknutu prirodu. Uživali smo u žuboru bistre reke i udisali miris šumske svežine. Usput smo naišli na jedan stari bunar i nekoliko tunela, prateći sve vreme usku stazu s koje se pružao strmoglavi pogled ka reci. Mirisi šume, cvetova i sremuša bivali su sve jači. Bio je to raj za sva čula.
Posle ušća Beušnice u Neru i kratke pauze nastavili smo veselo širokom stazom uz reku Beušnicu. Naš sledeći cilj bio je prvi vodopad – Cascada La vaioaga. Do njega smo stigli nakon pređenih 2km, a do vodopada smo se spustili strmom, ali lako savladivom stazom. Neki od nas su se i osvežili u reci – Lidija na primer 🙂 Nakon kratkog predaha, upijanja lepote i veličanstvenosti ovog mesta, nastavili smo dalje.
Naš sledeći predah napravili smo na ulazu u eko-kamp, gde smo pronašli improvizovani kafić – štand na kom smo mogli da kupimo kafu, sok ili pivo. Na štandu primaju leje i sitne evre, a kako nismo imali nigde usput menjačnicu, imale smo dovoljno novca samo za jednu kafu – koja košta 3 leja. Cene su inače od 3 do 5 leja za sve.
Sledeći naš cilj bio je srednji vodopad, koji se nalazi odmah kraj puta, te ga možete videti bez po muke. Stvarno je bio doživljaj smestiti se ispred vodopada, zatvoriti oči i osluškivati. Sinteza daha vetra, šapata trave i žubora vode navešće vas na sanjarenje.
Od srednjeg vodopada staza je dalje vodila ka meni najlepšem mestu u nacionalnom parku – vrelu Ochiul Beiului. Da biste stigli do njega, potrebno je da pređete drveni mostić preko rečice. Nakon toga vas udari plaventilo. Mešavina tirkiza i modro plave boje čini ovo vrelo čarobnim. Ušuškano je među drvećem i cvećem, potpuno čisto i netaknuto.
Od vrela smo nastavili blagim usponom ka gornjem vodopadu – Cascada Beusnita. Ovo je i najveći i najimpozantniji vodopad. Kraj njega smo uživali najduže, pokušavajuči da dotaknemo neki od ledenih slapova. Ovde smo natočili vodu, koja je izrazito čista i pitka.
Na ovom mestu postavljena je tabla koja poručuje da treba da štitimo prirodu i da recikliramo. Zaista, tokom cele šetnje nismo videli smeće u nacionalnom parku, i čini mi se da Rumuni mnogo više brinu o svojim prirodnim bogatstvima nego mi u našoj zemlji.
Nismo ostavili ništa za sobom, osim tragova patika i planinarskih štapova. A u nama se urezala slika nacionalnog parka Nera – Beušnice, a posebno vrelo Ochiul Beiului, koje je pri našem polasku kući poprimilo modrozelenu boju.
Da li biste rado posetili ovu lepotu, odmah preko granice? Pišite mi svoje utiske u komentarima 🙂
181 replies on “Kanjon Nere i vodopadi Beušnice”
Naravno
Divan post! Mi smo posetili ovaj predeo u septembru 2017. Fotografije koje sam sada videla kod tebe su potpuno drugacije od mojih. Bila je jesen pa je sve bilo u zlatno-zuto-crvenim nijansama. Vodostaj je bio nizak pa je vodopad presusio, ali to nam je dalo priliku da se uspenjemo sa njegove gornje strane. U svakom slucaju jako lep i prijatan izlet za dusu i telo. Volela bih da ponovim u prolece i uhvatim i neku zelenu fotografiju. ? Pozdrav
Drago mi je da ste imali tu sreću da posetite kanjom! Da, mislim da je proleće najbolje vreme, jer i u letnjem periodu često presuše vodopadi. I nadam se da ćete videti ovaj krajolik i u vreme bujanja prirode, to Vam od srca želim!
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