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Putnica Slovačka

Kolaž iz Bratislave

U Bratislavi sam bila tri puta. Nijednom ciljano.

Ne znam da li je to njena sreća ili nesreća – blizina metropolama poput Beča i Praga. S jedne strane, posećuju je i oni koji to ne planiraju, kao što nisam ni ja. Jednostavno, nađe vam se na putu, pa što je ne videti? S druge strane, retko ko se u Bratislavi dugo zadržava. Ograniči svoju posetu na par sati. Popije kafu, prošeta gradom. Bratislava mu služi za okrepljenje. Međutim, skoro svako je baš zbog te blizine Beču i Pragu poseti više puta…

Mene je prvi put me ugostila sada već davne 2012. na putu ka Pragu. Stigli smo u rano novembarsko jutro. Ulice su bile potpuno puste, prodavnice i restorani zatvoreni. Bratislava je bila uspavana lepotica. Svidela mi se na prvi pogled, činila mi se mirnim i uljuljkanim gradom. Iako prestonica, nije mi odavala utisak grada u kom se vikendom sjati milion turista,.Baš naprotiv, sve turiste odvlačili su Beč i Prag, a Bratislava je vikendom bila usamljena.

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Drugi put sam je takođe posetila nenadano. Krenuli smo u pohod na Belgiju, a plan je bio da prvi dan putovanja provedemo u Pragu ( gde drugo?). Međutim, zbog ogromne gužve na graničnom prelazu, ostali smo 10 sati zatočeni između Srbije i Mađarske. Morali smo promeniti plan, i – svratili smo u Bratislavu. Opet je bio novembar, a posle 15ak sati vožnje, prijalo nam je da odmorimo ovde i napunimo baterije za dalje. Ovog puta Bratislava je bila malo življa, i restorani su radili, pa smo mogli da se zgrejemo uz toplu čorbu i makarone sa sirom u jednom restorančiću u blizini glavnog gradskog trga.

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Treći put se dogodio u februaru. Ovog puta videla sam snežnu Bratislavu na par sati, i napokon imala dovoljno vremena da se popnem do Bratislavskog dvorca sa četiri kule i odozgo posmatram grad. Vetar nam je šibao obraze dok smo se gore penjali, ali uživali smo u ovoj snežnoj idili. U sećanju su mi ostali beli bratislavski krovovi.

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Ali nije dvorac jedino što mi je ostalo u lepom sećanju posle tri posete. Slovačko narodno pozorište iz 1920. jedna mi je od dražih građevina ovde, posebno zbog toga što ga krasi i Ganimedova fontana. Ganimed je bio smrtnik izuzetne lepote u koga se zaljubio Zevs, te ga je oteo, doveo na Olimp i postavio ga za peharnika. Od vodiča smo saznali i to da je Ganimed, kao jedan od simbola Vodolije u astrologiji, svu lepotu uzeo za sebe, pa iz tog razloga Vodolije nisu lepe 😀

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Gradska kuća krasi Glavni gradski trg još od 14. veka i jedan je od najfotografisanijih motiva grada. Sedište je Gradskog muzeja. Žao mi je što nijednom nisam imala dovoljno vremena da se popnem u toranj i posmatram Bratislavu iz ptičje perspektive. To je jedan razlog da se ponovo uputim tamo 😉

Preko puta Gradske kuće nalaze se dve građevine svetlih boja koje daju ovom trgu posebnu čar – bivša Mađarska banka u stilu secesije i Paladaiov palata u neobaroknom stilu. Priznajem da sam ove dve građevine pomno posmatrala pri svakoj svojoj poseti, i divila se njihovoj lepoti i skladu. Ispred njih je i najpoznatija fontana u Bratislavi – Rolandova ili Maksimilijanova fontana, koja je 1575. godine služila za snabdevanje vodom u gradui.

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Iz svakog ugla u gradu možete videti toranj Katedrale svetog Martina. Katedrala je urađena u stilu gotike, Značajna je jer je u njoj 25. juna 1741. godine krunisana Marija Terezija.

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Meni se jako dopala popločana ulica koja vodi iza Katedrale. Krase je stare bratislavske kuće pastelnih boja. Kad šetate ovuda, osećate se kao pravi stanovnik usnulog grada.

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Međutim, čak i kada lokalno stanovništvo spava, par momaka je uvek budno da pozdravi prispele putnike i turiste.

Ćamil, radnik koji „ viri iz kanalizacije” donosi sreću svima onima koji ga dodirnu po glavi i slikaju se sa njim. Za njega kažu da voli da gleda pod ženske suknje, a i da je lenj, pa ne obavlja posao za koji je plaćen.

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Srebrna statua Ignaca Lamara, čoveka koji je poludeo zbog neuzvraćene ljubavi i iz tog razloga svim ženama u Bratislavi poklanjao cveće. On će vam poželeti dobrodošlicu u Bratislavi, džentlmenski skidajući svoj šešir.

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Hubert je predstavnik svih onih vojnika koji su se zaljubili u lepe Slovakinje u Bratislavi i iz tog razloga ostali da žive ovde, Hubert je, po legendi, počeo da proizvodi vino, koje je danas najpoznatije vino Slovačke.

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Još jednog momka volim da pozdravim kada dođem u Bratislavu, a to je Meksikanac koji sedi na krovu jednog restorana. Za njega se ne vezuje nijedna legenda, ali verujem da će neka nastati, s obzirom na to da ovde sedi već godinama i stalni je stanovnik grada.

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Na svojim putovanjima videla sam mnoštvo crkava i katedrala, ali ona koju sam videla u Bratislavu ubedljivo je najlepša. To je tzv. Plava crkva – Crkva svete Elizabete. Često biva zapostavljena jer se ne nalazi u starom delu grada, a ja sam je uspela pronaći nakon malo lutanja, uz instrukcije ljubaznih Slovaka koje sam usput srela. Plava crkva je biser Art Nouveau stila, a ime je dobila iz razloga što su i fasada i njeni mozaici plave boje. Posmatrajući njenu lepotu, poželela sam da imam jedan kamenčić njenog mozaika kao uspomenu. Kako sam to naglas izgovorila, tako sam na betonu kraj nje pronašla par kamenčića kraljevsko plave boje, koje sam uz veliki osmeh skrila u pregradu svog novčanika. Ovaj kamenčić mi je ujedno i najlepši suvenir iz Bratislave.

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Pri svakoj svojoj kratkoj poseti uspela sam da obiđem neki kutak Bratislave. Kada ih sve spojim u svojoj glavi, dobijem jedan šareni kolaž. Spoj sunca, kiše i snega. Spoj praznih i punih ulica. Spoj boja koje u različita godišnja doba dobijaju drugačiji sjaj. Ali, duh grada je uvek isti. A meni taj duh prija.

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Možda je vreme da u Bratislavu odem s namerom? Šta vi mislite?

Budimpešta

Beč

Prag

Novi Sad

226 replies on “Kolaž iz Bratislave”

Ja sam u Bratislavi bio tri puta, a od toga čak dva puta namjenski i jedanput u povratku iz Praga. Bratislava mi je bila jedno od prvih putovanja, a odlučio sam se da je posjetim iz potpuno bizarnog razloga, jer sam pogledao horor film Hostel. Vjerovatno bi većinu taj film odvratio od posjete, ali meni je dao Bratislavi neki strašan šarm i misteriju. Plus, bila je zima pa je i to pojačalo utisak. S obzirom da sam tad bio sa agencijom, nisam nešto mnogo vidio jer su kombinovali Beč i Bratislavu. Zato sam se nakon nekoliko godina odlučio ponovo vratiti tamo samostalno, opet zimi i baš mi se dopala Bratislava. Nije lijepa ni blizu kao Beč ili Prag, ali meni je mnogo draža, možda baš zato što nema toliko turista. Treći put sam je posjetio na par sati i bilo je ljeto, tako da je grad potpuno drugačije izgledao. Iako je većina gradova ljepša ljeti, ja sam Bratislavu nekako vezao za zimu i tada mi ima najveću čar.
Imaš jednu malu greškicu u tekstu, statua se zove Čumil, ne Ćamil (tako bi se vjerovatno zvao u Bosni :D). Nije loše otići u Bratislavu i namjenski, mada si ti kroz ove svoje posjete vidjela maltene sve što treba da se vidi jer je mali grad.

Ja mislim da ću je sigurno posetiti jednom baš onako natenane. Sigurna sam da ima nekih super skrivenih kutaka, alternativnih kafića, kraft pivnica.. Što se tiče Ćumila/ Ćamila, nekako mi draže da ga zovem Ćamil, slađe je 😀 Ali hvala na ispravci! I hvala na čitanju i komentaru 🙂

Prvi put , leti,sam išla ciljano, na jedan dan, pošto sam bila u Beču. Videla dosta, prošetala, zavirila u one male ulice i iza onih malih pasaža i vrata… imaju sjajna dvorišta, prelepa, samo ih valja otkriti. Jela preskupu ne baš preukusnu hranu koju jedu samo turisti, najlepše šljive kupljenje ispred jedne knjižare na putu ka dvorcu, najgori sladoled na svetu… ali mi je grad ostao u lepo sećanju.
Drugi put, jedno prijatno vece, na putu za Prag. Najlepši restoran sa fantastičnim pogledom na grad, bolja hrana, divan sladoled, pa kratka šetnja po gradu koji je već usnuo, dvorac pod mrazom.
I treći put, na povratku iz Praga, a preko Beča, samo do aerodroma.
Ne znam hoce li nam ukinuti ovaj let iz Niša za 10e, kad se uspostavi avio linija Niš- Beč, na jesen, ali vredelo bi da mi jednom baš Bratislava bude odrednica putovanja.
Ima još mnogo toga da se vidi, saznala sam i za bolje kafane i ukusniju hranu, a i Dunav je tako lep.

Eh da smo bliže Nišu pa da i mi uhvatimo taj let 🙂 Ovako nam autobus ispadne povoljnija opcija. Drago mi je da ste uživali u Bratislavi. Tamo sam uvek išla nespremna, i potpuno opuštena, bez mape i bilo kakvih priprema, a uvek mi je bilo lepo…

Bila sam jednom u Bratislavi, na putu za Prag kao i mnogi, i moram da priznam da mi je ostala u lepom sećanju. Jedna sam od onih koji najviše zapamte osećaj koji su imali kad su bili negde, a za nju vezujem baš prijatna osećanja. Imam nameru da joj se vratim.
Želela bih da pohvalim Vaše putopise, sve ono što sam pročitala otkad sam naišla na Vaš blog je uspelo da me odvede do tih mesta i njihovih kutaka, i da poželim da sam stvarno tamo ? Nemaju svi putopisi tu moć ?

Pozdrav, jako mi se sviđaju tvoji tekstovi, već sat vremena listam blog ?
Imam i jedan prijedlog – mogla bi u pojedinim tekstovima ubaciti linkove na druge članke (primjerice, ovdje se spominje Prag pa bi tu odmah mogla biti i poveznica na tekst o Pragu), tako da lakše izgubim vrijeme čitajući zanimljive priče! ? Znam da se savjeti ne daju ako se ne traže, ali sam ti htjela dati ideju pa da razmisliš.
Lijep pozdrav!
Sanda

Zdravo! Hvala ti mnogo i drago mi je da ti se tekstovi sviđaju! U nekim tekstovima postoje linkovi ka drugim, ali svakako ne u svim, primetićeš vremenom 🙂 Ali svakako da nisam toliko razmišljala o tome, hvala na sugestiji, i nadam se da ćeš i dalje uživati 🙂

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