Zamak Ksiaz je treći po veličini dvorac u Poljskoj i nalazi se na oko 75 km od Vroclava. Potiče iz 13. veka, kada je počela njegova gradnja. Nekoliko puta je u međuvremenu demoliran i obnavljan, a važnu ulogu je igrao u Drugom svetskom ratu, jer se smatra da se u njegovim podzemnim tunelima nalazilo Hitlerovo sklonište. 1974. je počela njegova obnova, a od 1991. pripada gradu Walbrzych.
Fotografiju ovog dvorca sam videla prvi put pre nekoliko godina u jednoj knjizi koja se bavila istorijom Poljske. Zapamtila sam kako izgleda, ali ne i gde se tačno nalazi, i vremenom sam bila potpuno zaboravila na njega. Kada sam pre par godina počela da razmišljam o poseti gradu Vroclavu, videla sam da je Ksiaz jedan od najpopularnijih dnevnih izleta. i – odluka je pala.
Nakon dočeka Nove godine u Vroclavu, prvog dana Nove 2018. godine, odlučili smo da samostalno napravimo ovaj izlet, i to vozom.
Vozovi iz Vroclava za Walbrzych saobraćaju na svakih sat vremena. Karta Wroclaw – Walbrzych Miasto košta 3,5 evra. Karte je najbolje kupiti na železničkoj stanici Wroclaw Glowny. Kako biste izbegli gužve, otiđite u turistički info-centar, gde će vam dati karte i ištampati red vožnje za povratak. Kartu za povratak je najbolje da kupite odmah, jer stanica u Walbrzychu ima kraće radno vreme. Cena za povratak je ista.
Vožnja do stanice Walbrzych Miasto traje malo više od sat vremena. Između nema većih mesta, ali svakako je lepo posmatrati kroz prozor poljska sela, opustiti se uz knjigu ili slušajući muziku. Kada stignete na vaše odredište i izađete iz stanice, treba da pređete put i potražite prvu autobusku stanicu – Armii Krajowej, i da tu sačekate autobus broj 8, čija je poslednja stanica dvorac Ksiaz.
Dok smo čekali autobus, upoznali smo par Poljaka, koji su nam potvrdili da čekamo autobus na dobrom mestu, i prošetali ovim gradićem, koje nam se nije uopšte učinilo lepim, jedino lepo na šta smo naišli bila je crkva. I jedna Žabka prodavnica, gde smo kupili nešto za grickanje 😉
Posle nekih pola sata čekanja, naišao je naš autobus. Kartu smo kupili kod vozača, jer nigde nismo videli automate. Cena za jedan pravac je 3,20 zlota ( 1 evro je 4.20 zlota). Ne zaboravite da otkucate kartu! Vožnja traje malo duže, jer ovaj autobus ide preko sela Lubiechow. Mi smo znali da će trajati duže, ali ne i da će trajati skoro pola sata! Kroz prozor nam se posle nekog vremena ukazalo selo Lubiechow, a nakon izlaska putnika, nas dvoje smo ostali jedini putnici, i jedna gospođa sa rancem koja je, sudeći po opremi, išla na planinarenje. Nestrpljivo smo čekali poslednju stanicu, Već je pomalo padao mrak i jedino što sam želela je da uspem da vidim dvorac na dnevnom svetlu. Pomislila sam da možda ovo i nije bila ispravna odluka, ali sad nije više bilo nazad…
Ako želite da što pre stignete do dvorca, možete izaći iz autobusa ranije – pre kružnog toka ( kada sa vaše leve strane vidite znak Zamek Ksiaz – 600 m). Onda ćete do dvorca prošetati sami. Mi to nismo znali, tako da smo u autobusu ostali do poslednje stanice.
Kada smo stigli, veoma sam se radovala – još uvek nije pao mrak i mogla sam videti dvorac u njegovom pravom sjaju. Kada smo izašli iz autobusa, pratili smo samo stazu koja je ka njemu vodila – kroz šumu se nazirao hotel Ksiaz.
Pošto nismo znali da li će dvorcu uopšte moći da se priđe ( s obzirom da je na internetu pisalo da je 1. januara zatvoren) obratila sam se fb stranici zamka , i veoma brzo smo dobili informaciju da je kapija dvorca otvorena i da će raditi hotel Ksiaz, restoran i bar, ali da će terase biti zatvorene. Poslali su nam i mapu sa ucrtanim objektima.
Prvo što smo ugledali, nakon penjanja iz šume, bio je hotel Ksiaz, kroz čije predvorje smo prošli. Sa naše desne strane nalazio se restoran, a sa leve bar. Dvorac je bio tačno ispred nas. Nismo bili jedini ovde, ali nije bilo gužva, te nam je to omogućilo da u šetnji baštama dvorca potpuno uživamo.
Zamak je potpuno ušuškan, tako da ćete uživati u potpunom miru i tišini, koju će „kvariti” samo žubor reke Pełcznice. Bašte dvorca su prostrane i uređene, sa dosta zelenila, cveća i fontana. Čim smo stigli, iskoristila sam priliku za nekoliko fotografija, dok je još bio dan 😉
Prošetali smo i do donjeg dela – gde se nalaze terase , koju su takođe veoma lepo uređene, i sa kojih se vidi tok reke Pełcznice.
Želja mi je bila i da vidim dvorac iz daljine, tako da smo nakon jednočasovne šetnje krenuli ka vidikovcu, do koga vodi dobro obeležena staza ( ucrtan je i na mapi gore). Mrak se već spuštao, ali uspeli smo da uhvatimo dvorac dok se gubio u sutonu.
Ono što mi se nije svidelo je što je prostor oko dvorca uveče potpuno neosvetljen, pa bi bilo veoma nezgodno da se ovde nađete sami noću. Zato, ako idete u jesen ili zimu, planirajte da krenete što ranije, kako biste sve stigli da vidite na vreme i da se vratite na autobus pre mraka.
Želela sam samo da vidim ovaj zamak, o kom sam ranije negde čitala, i bila sam veoma srećna na kraju dana, iako nije sve ispalo savršeno kako sam zamišljala. Srećna – jer smo uspeli da vidimo ono zbog čega smo došli. Ipak, ceo put do zamka bio je za mene jedna avantura, koju ću sigurno pamtiti, kao i usamljeni bus broj 8 čiji se vozač verovatno pitao zašto nismo izašli bar 10 stanica ranije i uštedeli sebi vreme.
Bilo kako bilo, nakon obilaska vidikovca, imali smo sreću da nam je autobus broj 8 iz sela Lubiechow brzo došao, i posle nekih 30 minuta ponovo smo bili na železničkoj stanici.
Nadam se da će vam ovaj tekst pomoći da ne napravite istu grešku kao i mi i da ćete imati više vremena za obilazak, fotografisanje, pa čak i za neku kafu ili ručak.
Za sve informacije o dvorcu možete posetiti sajt .
Da li ste i vi nekad imali ovakvu avanturu sa gradskim prevozom u nepoznatom gradu?
63 replies on “Kako smo stigli do dvorca Ksiaz”
[…] Mi smo jedan dan proveli u mestu Walbrzych, gde smo posetili zamak Ksiaz, o kome sam pisalu u ovom tekstu. A kada se umorite od šetnje , obilazaka, i traženja patuljaka, potražite pivnicu ili […]
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