Iako sam Devica u horoskopu i neko ko voli sve da isplanira do sitnih detalja, umem ponekad da svoje saputnike, a i samu sebe, iznenadim nekom spontanom odlukom usred putovanja. Do pre par godina volela sam da idem utabanim stazama, da posećujem ono što mi drugi preporuče, jer mi je tu uvek bila garantovana sigurnost. Vremenom je sve više počela da me privlači ideja da ja budem ta koja krči puteve i ljudima otkriva neke nove staze. Zbog toga sam prilikom boravka u Sloveniji odlučila da posetim gradić Škofja Loka.
Naravno da Škofja Loka nije neko tajno mesto – Slovenci ovaj gradić jako vole i cene, i predstavljaju ga kao jedno od njihovih bisera. A on to i jeste – ušuškan između Kranja i Ljubljane, na reci Sori. Često biva zapostavljen od strane turista u Sloveniji, jer se nalazi na putu između Ljubljane i jezera Bled i Bohinj, kojima turisti najčešće hrle prilikom boravka u Gorenjskoj. Međutim, iako veoma mali, ovaj srednjovekovni gradić može da se pohvali najočuvanijim starim gradskim jezgrom u Sloveniji. Primetila sam ga dok smo se Marko i ja vozili od Ljubljane ka našem smeštaju u Kranju, zapisala naziv, a sutradan smo zajedno odlučili da odemo do gradića neobičnog i teško pamtljivog imena i vidimo šta ima da nam ponudi.
Od Kranja do Škofje Loke se vozom stigne za sedam minuta! Karta u jednom pravcu košta 1.28 evra 🙂 Sa glavne železničke stanice u Kranju ide se vozom u pravcu Ljubljane, a izlazi odmah na sledećoj stanici, odakle se peške ili gradskim autobusom može stići do čarobnog gradića. Mi smo krenuli peške, prošli kroz industrijsku zonu grada, pored tržnih centara i prešli most preko potoka Sušica. Nakon nekih pola sata ugledali smo obrise starog gradskog jezgra.
Već na prvi pogled nam se svidelo ono što je bilo pred nama – cvetne terase i prozori, očuvane građevine koje odaju duh prošlih vremena i zamak koji se ponosno uzdiže, braneći grad od svih neprijatelja.
Prešli smo most preko Selške Sore i penjali se kaldrmisanim ulicama. Sa naše leve strane ugledali smo tradicionalni slovenački restoran imena Kašča, smešten u građevini nalik utvrđenju iz 16. veka. Odlučili smo da ovde dođemo na kraju obilaska i probamo neki od specijaliteta slovenačke kuhinje.
Kako je grad smešten na brdu, sve vreme smo se penjali i silazili, otkrivajući nove, besprekorno čiste krivudave ulice, kao i kuće raznobojnih fasada s prozorima ukrašenim cvećem. Svideo mi se taj sklad boja i mirisa.
Jedan od tornjeva kog smo prvog ugledali pri dolasku pripada katoličkoj Crkvi sv. Jakoba. izgrađenoj u gotskom stilu. Na Gradskom trgu, kom ova crkva pripada nalazi se i maketa grada, gde smo mogli da vidimo raspored znamenitosti, pre nego što smo pronašli Turističku organizaciju grada. Tamo smo dobili mapu i kupili razglednice.
Preko Selške Sore u starom delu grada prelaze tri mosta. Najlepši i najpitoreskniji od njih je Kapucinov – kameni most iz 14. veka, koji je ujedno i simbol grada. Žubor reke i slika mosta koji se u njoj ogleda stvaraju na ovom mestu bajkovitu atmosferu, raj za uši i oči. Kapucinov most je inače najstariji sačuvani most u Sloveniji.
Sa Kapucinovog mosta smo posmatrali i drugi deo starog grada i sorsku terasu. Posebno mi se dopala plava kuća koja u ovom delu razbija monotoniju svetlih boja. Iako je ovde čovek pre 1000 godina iskrčio prirodu kako bi izgradio utvrđenje, ona ne jenjava – a u to smo se uverili kada smo videli biljke koje su se snagom izborile za svoje mesto pod suncem – kroz kamenje!
Nakon fotografisanja mostova i uživanja u miru i tišini kraj reke, krenuli smo ka Mestnom trgu i glavnoj pešačkoj ulici, koju krasi još pastelnih zgrada i spomenik posvećen svecima koji čuvaju grad od kuge i drugih bolesti.
Tu se smestila Homanova kuća, koja na svojoj fasadi prikazuje stare umetničke slike i freske vojnika. Homanova kuća je najfotografisanija kuća u Škofja Loki, ali i ostale kuće koje se ovde nalaze imaju važan umetnički i istorijski značaj.
Kada se od Mestnog trga skrene desno, naiđe se na stepenice i stazu koja vodi do zamka Škofjeloški grad. Vrlo lako smo se popeli do njega, a zatim odmorili, posmatrajući crvene gradske krovove i brda koja ga okružuju.
Zamak iz 1215. godine se trenutno renovira, tako da nismo mogli potpuno da uživamo u njemu, ali smo posetili njegovu baštu. Bašta je deo muzeja grada i ovde se nalazi lapidarium – zbirka kamenih spomenika i arheoloških fragmenata od istorijskog značaja, etno-kuća sa prikazom srednjovekovnog života u gradu i oruđe za rad korišćeno u doba nastanka samog gradića.
Nakon posete bašti spustili smo se u Donji grad, kako bismo posetili Kašču. Poručili smo gulaš, tradicionalne štruklje sa sirom, omiljeno Titovo jelo, i još jedan tradicionalni slovenački specijalitet sa testeninom i pečurkama čije ime nismo uspeli ni da izgovorimo, a kamoli da zapamtimo. Sedeli smo u bašti restorana, a u njegovoj unutrašnjosti se nalazi i pivnica.
Iz Škofja Loke ispratio nas je pravi letnji pljusak. Bilo nam je žao što nismo imali više vremena da istražimo gradić, okolne puteljke i crkvu koja se uzdiže na brdu iznad grada. Ali, nadamo se da ćemo to učiniti, pri nekoj narednoj poseti Sloveniji.
Nadam se da sam uspela da vam utabam stazu ka jednom od najlepših srednjovekovnih gradića koji sam do sada posetila. A ako vam se sviđa, sigurna sam da će vam se dopasti i rumunski gradić Segešvar.
Da li vi na putovanjima volite da otkrijete neki skriveni biser? Idete li poznatim stazama ili sami krčite nove? Čekam vaše odgovore u komentarima 🙂
335 replies on “Škofja Loka – srednjovekovni biser Slovenije”
Vise volim nesto novo da otkrivam, posebno ono sto nije navikano i popularno. Svidja mi se tvoj blog ?
Takođe, manje popularne destinacije me uvek oduševe! Hvala ti ?
Valjda zato sto imaju dusu, ove navikane imaju neki sjaj koji je malo o lazan, nekad se i razocaram jer je previse navikanoa, a meni nije to, to. Nema na cemu ?
Itekako volim da istražujem nepoznate predele i gradove. I najčešće baš tako, kao i tebi, zapadne mi nešto za oko i poželim da istražim to. I vrlo retko se u tome prevarim ?
Hvala Brane na komentaru 🙂 Ja sam ranije bila nesigurna, uvek je trebalo neko da me ” pogura” u nepoznato. Valjda to dođe sa zrelošću i samopouzdanjem 🙂
Na Vašu preporuku smo ljetos posjetili Sighisoaru i oduševili se. Vidim da će nam slijedeći jednodnevni izlet iz Karlovca biti Škofja Loka. Hvala Deni!
Divno, baš mi je drago! Ako volite srednjovekovne gradiće, ovo je pun pogodak!
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