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Bohinj – jezero koje mami uzdahe

Eh, taj Bohinj…Koliko sam samo puta gledala fotografije čarobnog jezera, sanjareći da ću ga jednog dana posetiti. Sve je izgledalo kao san, sve dok se nisam tamo zaista pojavila. Kročivši na tlo gradića Ribčev Laz shvatila sam da se snovi zaista ostvaruju, samo ako se dovoljno potrudimo da ih ispunimo.

Uzbuđenje je počelo da raste od samog dolaska na glavnu železničku stanicu u Kranju. Marko i ja smo nestrpljivo čekali voz za Bohinjsku Bistricu, U turističkom info centru u Kranju dobili smo mapu jezera, koju smo detaljno izučavali. Plan je bio da prepodne provedemo na Bohinju, a da nakon toga odemo do Bleda.

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Voz je došao tačno u minut, a mi smo se oduševljeno smestili i pripremili na posmatranje zelenih pejzaža Gorenjske. 70 minuta vožnje nas je delilo od Bohinjske Bistrice, sa presedanjem u mestu Jesenice. Voz je bio krcat – što se i očekivalo, s obzirom na popularnost naše destinacije.

„Zeleno, volim te zeleno…” – sigurno su omiljeni stihovi Slovenaca, jer smo prilikom vožnje primetili da priroda ovde dominira, da je bujna, očuvana i neokrnjena. Slovenci je čuvaju, a ona im zauzvrat daje božanstvene prizore.

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„Naredna stanica: Bohinjska Bistrica” – čulo se na razglasu. Gomila ljudi pohrlila je ka izlazu, usput pokupila i nas, tako da smo se za tili čas našli napolju. Sačekali smo da prođu oni koji su u žurbi, i polako krenuli ka gradiću. Do jezera nas je delila staza duga oko 5km, i bili smo spremni za tu šetnju.

Međutim, odmah iza železničke stanice stajao je autobus koji je vozio ka mestu Ribčev Laz, na samu obalu jezera. Zašto ne sačuvati noge i snagu, ipak nas čeka naporan dan? Ušli smo u autobus, i kupili kartu, koja je bila besplatna! Naime, vozač svakom napomene da kupi kartu, koju vam ištampa u vidu fiskalnog računa. Zanimljivo je bilo posmatrati osmehe ljudi koji su pri ulasku, pripremivši novčanik, primetili da je cena karte 0,00€. Ovaj gest mi se veoma dopao, i pokazao je gostoprimstvo Slovenije na najlepši mogući način.

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Naredni momenat koji pamtim bio je prvi pogled na Bohinjsko jezero. Nestvarna lepota. Različite nijanse plave, od one najsvetlije do najmodrije. Obasula me je neizmerna sreća i uzbuđenost. Kameni most i crkva krasili su očaravajući ambijent. I stvarno sam se tako osećala – očarano. Nisam ništa pričala. Samo sam gledala, i upijala. Sunčeve zrake, miris šuma, svežinu vetra, zvuk talasa..

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Prešli smo kameni most, i krenuli ka jednoj od uvala, gde smo odlučili da provedemo naše prve trenutke ovde. Vreli je avgust, i velika je šteta da se ne osvežimo u kristalno čistoj vodi. Ali, i ledenoj. Toliko ledenoj da se ja nisam usudila da uđem, Marku to nije predstavljalo veliki problem, više krupno kamenje koje je otežavalo sam ulaz u vodu i ležanje na improvizaovanoj plaži. Ja sam se smestila u hlad, jela nektarine koje smo poneli i uživala u pogledu. Stvarno sam se osećala kao na nekom rajskom mestu. Bohinj mi je delovao divlje, još uvek neistraženo. Iako dosta posećeno, nije mi odavalo utisak veoma popularne turističke atrakcije – ovde je najviše bilo Slovenaca. Uživali su tu u vožnji kajaka, biciklizmu, šetnji, kupanju. I što je najbitnije – ovde su mogli da uživaju u miru i tišini. Ovde nema kafića, diskoteka, splavova, nema hordi turista.

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Ostatak svog vremena ovde provela sam na jednom kamenu u jezeru, sedeći s nogama uronjenim u ledenu vodu, i gledajući u daljinu. Nirvana. To je ono što mi često nedostaje na putovanjima. Da se isključim, opustim, da ne brinem, da se prepustim…Bohinj mi je to pružio.

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U gradiću Ribčev Laz smo kansije prošetali, probali domaći sladoled, hranili jariće, a zatim nastavili ka mestu Ukanc, gde smo želeli da se popnemo žičarom na Vogel i uživamo u pogledu na jezero. Ni prilikom šetnje nismo mogli da odvojimo pogled od jezera, koje je vremenom postajalo sve plavlje.

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U jednom trenutku palo nam je na pamet da bismo mogli stopirati do Ukanca, kako bismo uštedeli vreme i od ovog putovanja napravili još veću avanturu. Posle pet minuta zaustavio se jedan automobil – to su bili momak i devojka iz Nemačke, koji su došli u Sloveniju na odmor, i tražili kamp u kom bi mogli da uživaju na jezeru barem dva dana. Ostavili su nas na našem odredištu, a oni su nastavili dalje, jer u ovom kampu nažalost više nije bilo mesta.

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U Ukancu se nismo dugo zadržali. Obišli smo kamp i malo odmorili na jednoj od plaža. Prošetali smo u susret planinama koje su se dizale iznad zelenih livada, Idilične slike bile su nam sve vreme pred očima – krivudavi puteljci vodili su do kuća i etno-restorana, kravice su pasle na livadama, a sunce je doprinosilo i našem vedrom duhu. Uostalom, kako da ne budete vedri i nasmejani kad ugledate ovako nešto?

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Preko puta samog kampa ide jedan uspon, koji vodi ka žičari i vrhu Vogel. Velika mi je želja bila da se popnem na vrh i sama napravim fotografiju koju sam dugo čuvala na desktopu svog računara. Da tu fotografiju doživim, da je uramim u svojim mislima. Međutim, bezobrazno visoka cena vožnje žičarom od 40 evra za nas dvoje spustila me je na zemlju. Prourokovala je malu dozu sete u meni, ali mi nije umanjila doživljaj Bohinja. Ono što sam videla do tada bilo je sasvim dovoljno da se u mom srcu i mislila napravi jedan bohinjski kolaž, koji tu ostaje uramljen zauvek.

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U blizini kampa Ukanc pronašli smo autobusku stanicu, na kojoj smo čekali autobus za Bled. Mapu Bohinja sam vratila u torbu. Bilo je vreme za nova otkrića! A kako sam doživela Bled – pročitajte ovde.

Da li ste vi bili na Bohinju? Da li ste ispunili sebi želju i popeli se žičarom na Vogel? Podelite sa mnom vaše utiske u komentarima!

A ako vam se svideo ovaj tekst, pročitajte i tekst o najlepšem slovenačkom srednjovekovnom gradiću.

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