Doći u Sloveniju, a ne videti Bled i njegov najfotografisaniji motiv: ostrvce sa crkvom, prava je grehota. Bar tako kažu. Kako ne volim da idem na popularna, izvikana mesta, posetu Bledu sam u svojoj glavi sačuvala u folderu „ako stignemo”. Iako su me svi pre putovanja pitali „Kada idete na Bled? ” i iako je vodič s kojim smo putovali skoro dva sata posvetio priči o Bledu ( a Bohinj nije ni spomenuo), i dalje sam se odupirala turistički popularnoj destinaciji, pa makar posle na mene vi, moji čitaoci, bacali drvlje i kamenje.
Želela sam da vidim Ljubljanu, Kranj i Bohinj. Bohinj posebno. I on je na putovanju i meni i Marku ostavio najlepše uspomene. A sad se pitate, pa jeste na kraju išli na Bled? Jesmo. Kada smo videli sve što smo imali na spisku, iz foldera sam izvukla srednjovekovni gradić Škofja Loka i Bledsko jezero. Inače, ovog teksta ne bi bilo.
Do Bleda smo se vozili autobusom sa Bohinjskog jezera, iz mesta Ukanc, Karta u jednom pravcu koštala je 4,10 evra po osobi, a putovanje je trajalo oko pola sata. Izašli smo na stanici tik pored jezera i započeli našu šetnju. Odmah smo primetili veliku razliku u odnosu na Bohinj – mnogo više ljudi, mnogo kafića, hotele, restorane na samoj obali, sa terasama iznad jezera, koje su bile pune stranaca, ponajviše Kineza. Na sve strane videli smo ljude sa selfie štapovima, koji su tražili najbolji ugao da ovekoveče svoju posetu najpoznatijem mestu na svetu. Ali, nisam želela da budem hejter ( a umem nekad biti), tako da sam pokušala da ih sve ignorišem.
Jezero se dosta razlikuje od Bohinjskog – bilo je kasno popodne, i ono je poprimilo modroplavu boju. Izgledalo je jednako duboko celom površinom, ravnomerno ograničeno šetalištima. Nisam videla da postoji postepen ulaz u vodu niti neka plažica na kojoj bismo mogli da se odmorimo. Za odmor smo iskoristili klupe koje su nanizane promenadom, a odatle smo uživali u divnoj panorami – sa naše leve strane videli smo ostrvce sa crkvom, naspram nas Bledski zamak, a sa desne strane grad Bled.
Jezerom su plovili mnogobrojni šareni čamci – tradicionalne pletne, sa 18 ljudi na svakom. Bilo je i drugih, manjih čamaca, koji se mogu iznajmiti, ali to nam ne bi palo na pamet zbog jakog vetra koji je tog dana duvao na jezeru. Dok smo sedeli na klupi, do nas je vetar doneo zvuke zvona crkve sa ostrva – bilo je 17h.
Šetali smo dalje i stigli do pletnarske luke – mesta sa kog kreću pletne ka ostrvu. Cena povratne karte sa tog mesta je bila 14 evra. Pomislili smo, ako smo već ovde, onda nema smisla da ne vidimo i ostrvo, i odmah se smestili u jedno od pletni. Čekali smo da u naš čamac dođe još 16 osoba, kako bismo mogli krenuti. Saputnici su brzo stigli, a pre kretanja, naš kapetan – pletnar, ravnomerno nas je smestio u brodić, kako bi napravio balans u težini. Naredio je da budemo mirni, da ne ustajemo, da se lepo naslonimo , i da uživamo. Snažno je zaveslao, a vesela ekipa sačinjena od par Arapa, dve Kineskinje, jednog francuskog para, nekoliko Slovenaca i nas dvoje Srba krenulo je u zanimljivu avanturu.
Pletnari obavljaju veoma težak posao – nije nimalo lako veslati u stojećem položaju, boreći se s vetrom i brinuti o sigurnosti ljudi i dece. Pritom – pokazati izuzetno strpljenje, posebno kada Kineskinje ustanu i počnu da prave selfije nasred čamca, opominjati ih besomučno i bezuspešno, a ipak ostati pribran i nasmejan! Dok nam Kineskinje nisu kvarile doživljaj, uživali smo u vožnji, sa vetrom u kosi i mirisom jezera u nozdrvama. Približavali smo se ostrvu, a naš kapetan nam je objasnio da na njemu možemo ostati 40 minuta, nakon čega se vraćamo nazad u našu luku. Prilikom iskrcavanja na ostrvo platili smo našu vožnju i dobili karte, za slučaj da je pletnar zaboravio naš izgled.
Crkva Uznesenja Marijinog, simbol ostrva, potiče iz 15. veka. Za nju se vezuje legenda o potonulom zvonu i tužna ljubavna priča. Legenda kaže da su mladoj plemkinji koja je živela u blizini razbojnici ubili muža. Ona je potom dala sve zlato i srebro kako bi se izlilo zvono za kapelicu na ostrvu. Međutim, prilikom transporta do ostrva, zvono je za vreme oluje potonulo u jezero. Ona je zatim prodala sav svoj imetak i novac dala za izgradnju nove crkve. Nakon njene smrti, papa je, u spomen na njenu dobrotu, dao nalog da se izlije novo zvono za kapelicu na ostrvu – zvono koje ispunjava želje svakom verniku koji na to zvono zazvoni. Do ove barokne crkve vodi 99 stepenika , a veruje se da mladoženja na dan venčanja treba da uznese mladu do crkve preko tih 99 stepenika, i da će im to doneti sreću. Ove legende i verovanja koja se vezuju za ostrvo učinili su ga još popularnijim, a ta popularnost dovela je do velike zagađenosti jezera, protiv koje se slovenačke vlasti svakodnevno bore.
Naših 40 minuta na ostrvu brzo je prošlo – ali je sasvim dovoljno za obilazak. Sa ostrva smo mogli da uživamo u pogledu na Julijske Alpe i grad Bled iz drugog ugla.
Kada smo se vratili na kopno, krenuli smo ka Bledskom zamku, do koga se stiže za 20ak minuta lagane šetnje. Nadali smo se da ćemo penjanjem do zamka uhvatiti veličanstven pogled na jezero u suton, ali nismo uspeli – jer se za veličanstven pogled mora kupiti ulaznica u zamak koja košta 11 evra. Zadovoljili smo se manje veličanstvenim pogledom sa malo niže tačke, i spustili se ka gradu Bledu.
Već je bila suton i ulična svetla obasjavala su jezero sa svih strana. Pletne više nisu vozile, ali u Bledu je i tada imalo šta da se radi. Turisti su sada posedali u restorane na promenadi, jeli krempite i posmatrali mirno jezero. Iz obližnjih restorana odzvanjala je muzika uživo, deca su trčala na sve strane. Dvadesetak ljudi je čekalo red da se fotografiše u „Bledskom srcu” na obali.
A mi? Mi smo krenuli ka autobuskoj stanici i sačekali svoj voz za Kranj. Bili smo zadovoljni što smo došli. Nije nas ništa oduševilo, ali ne možemo reći da nije bilo lepo. Zaključak: Bohinj za uživanje u prirodi, miru, lepoti, kupanju, suncu… Bled – za šetnju u popodnevnim/ večernjim satima. Žao mi je bilo što nismo stigli da posetimo kanjon Vintgar, ali to nekom drugom prilikom. Svakako ću se vratiti opet u Gorenjsku.
Da li ste vi videli Bled? Da li je vas oduševio? Pišite mi vaša mišljenja u komentarima.
57 replies on “Jedno popodne na Bledskom jezeru/ Blejanje na Blejskom :)”
Na fotografijama lijepo izgleda, ali nikad nisam vidjela uzivo. Doduse, ko zna, jednog dana 🙂
Nadam se da hoćeš. Stvarno je lepo. Nažalost nama je ostao u senci Bohinja. Sigurna sam da bi utisak bio drugačiji da smo prvo Bled posetili 🙂 Ali svakako preporučujem, ima za svakog ponešto.
Nikada nisam bila u Bled, ali mi se dopada i mislim da ce mi se svidjeti, ako ga posjetim. Takodje moram pohvaliti nacin na koji ste taj grad predstavili, kako slikama, tako i tekstom. Bukvalno sam imala dozivljaj kao da sam upravo tamo. 🙂
Hvala ti Anđela! Nadam se da ćeš posetiti Bled. Čitava Slovenija je vredna posete, a jezera Bohinj i Bled su kao trešnjice na šlagu jedne preukusne torte!
Danijela, kad ponovo dođete u posetu Gorenjskoj ja ću da vas vodim u Bledski Vintgar, važi?????
Dogovoreno, draga Olga ? Žao mi je što ovog puta nismo imali dovoljno vremena. Ali, Slovenija je tako divna, na svakom ćošku nešto lepo…
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