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Kranj – prestonica Gorenjske

Dole Sava i Kokra, gore Julijski Alpi koji dosežu nebo i stapaju se s njim. To je Kranj – prestonica slovenačke regije Gorenjska. Mali grad, ali dovoljno velik da se u njemu spoje kultura, istorija, ukusna hrana i fascinantna priroda. Ulice koje odišu mirom, a u nama ipak probude onaj osećaj ushićenja koji nas drži i ne pušta tokom čitavog boravka.

Kada smo Marko i ja stigli, već je bilo kasno uveče i gradom je vladao potpuni mir. Bila je nedelja, a poznato je da Slovenci nedeljom odmaraju. Uspeli smo da prošetamo i vidimo potpuno praznu pešačku zonu i pojedemo jedan kebab 😉 Možda je bilo i dobro da je grad već spavao – i mi smo bili umorni od puta, te smo posle kratke šetnje i nemogućnosti za noćni izlazak otišli na spavanje, kako bismo bili orni za naredne dane.

A naredni dani počinjali su kafom i obilnim doručkom uz očaravajući pogled. Uvek sam volela doručak u prirodi, tako da sam se trudila da oba jutra zauzmemo mesto tik kraj prozora. Jutra su bila hladna, pa se nismo usuđivali da izađemo na terasu našeg hotela Creina. Ali,i pogled kroz prozor bio nam je sasvim dovoljan da nas uveri koliki smo u stvari srećnici što imamo priliku da uživamo u ovakvom prizoru.

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Uz dobar početak dana, ništa nije moglo da nam pokvari raspoloženje. Čak ni sitna kišica koja je u par navrata pokvasila kranjske ulice. Kao ljubitelju srednjovekovnih gradova bilo mi je teško da ne iskažem svu svoju oduševljenost ovim gradom još od prvog koraka. Divila sam se divnim građevinama, ulicama pod kaldrmom i tornjevima crkava koje je najlepše posmatrati preko Save.

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Kranj, kao i, sigurna sam, sve slovenačke gradove, karakterišu besprekorna čistoća i sklad, uređenost u svakom pogledu – kuće čiji su prozori i balkoni uređeni cvećem, pokošena dvorišta, raznobojne fasade…Nema smeća po ulicama, nema pasa lutalica, prosjaka, niti beskućnika…Dok se šetate, iz obližnjih kafića vas pozdravljaju i smeše se. Jer, ipak nemaju goste tako često.

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Kavka bar nam je najviše privukao pažnju i u njemu smo sedeli, proučili mape koje smo dobili u turističkoj organizaciji grada i napravili neki okvirni plan za obilazak. Sedeći tako, posmatrali smo prolaznike, koji su šetali opušteno, bez ikakve žurbe. Usput su sretali prijatelje s kojima bi proćaskali ili popili kafu. Nisu gledali na sat niti žurili na vozove. A bio je ponedeljak. Čak i konobar u Kavka baru bi, ukoliko je sve uslužio, sedeo sa svojim prijateljima i pio pivo, što me je posebno iznenadilo. Moram priznati da mi je prijala ta smirenost koja je svuda vladala. Utopili smo se u tu atmosferu bez pogovora 😉

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Pri laganoj šetnji naišli smo na kuću u kojoj je tri godine svog života proveo najpoznatiji slovenački pesnik France Prešern. Poslednjih godina života ovde je radio kao advokat. Kuća je danas muzej, a ulazak je besplatan svake prve subote u mesecu. Na spoljašnjem zidu mogu se i pročitati stihovi njegove najpoznatije pesme „ Zdravljica”, u kojoj nazdravlja svim narodima.

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Ova njegova pesma je nacionalna himna Slovenije, za koju je muziku napisao slovenački kompozitor Stanko Premrl. Reči himne u prevodu glase ovako:

Nek žive svi narodi
što dočekati žele dan
da svud, kud sunce hodi,
rat je međ’ ljudima okončan,
tad uz prag
neće vrag
nego prijatelj biti drag!

U Kranju se i pozorište naziva po čuvenom pesniku – Prešernovo gledališće. a ispred se nalazi i velelepni spomenik pesniku.

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Međutim, to nije njegov jedini spomenik ovde. Na Glavnom trgu nalazi se još jedan, podignut od strane građana Kranja 1952. godine, u zahvalnost pesniku na njegovom dobročinstvu koje je širio tokom svog života, pomažući siromašnima.

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Glavnim trgom dominira Crkva sv. Kancijana koja datira iz 14. veka. Nismo je mogli posetiti jer je bila zatvorena ( pokušali smo tri puta). Nadamo se da ćemo to uraditi narednog puta. Kažu da je akustika izvrsna i da je najlepši doživljaj slušati koncert u njoj.

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Drugi deo starog grada nalazi se malo niže, i otkrili smo ga spuštajući se kaldrmisanim ulicama ka ušću reke Kokre u Savu. Ovde smo naišli na još pregršt šarenih kuća sa cvećem ukrašenim prozorima i balkonima…

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U samom krajnjem starog grada naišli smo na Pungert – staru odbramben belu kulu sa crvenim krovom iz 16. veka. Pored nje se nalazi Crkva svetih Sebastijana, Fabiana i Rocha, svetaca koji štite od smrtnih bolesti. U ovom delu starog grada nalazi se i igralište za decu i jedan kafić u kome je primamljivo sedeti u letnjim mesecima, zbog hlada koje pruža bujno zelenilo. U blizini je i ušće dveju kranjskih reka, čiji zajednički žubor takođe doprinosi uživanju na ovom mestu.

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U blizini Pungerta, iznad reke Save, nalazi se i takozvani „view point”, mesto sa koga možete posmatrati panoramu drugog dela Kranja, preko reke. Za akrofobične pomalo neprijatno 😉 Meni se ovaj pogled nije nešto preterano dopao. Tražila sam bolji, sa druge strane, kako bih mogla da vidim panoramu kranjskog starog grada.

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Zatim smo krenuli ka mostu preko Save, uživajući u pogledu na njenu bistru vodu i šljunkovita ostrvca koja su se zbog niskog vodostaja ovde stvorila. Sa druge strane reke nalazi se železnička stanica, sa koje smo putovali na Bohinj i Bled, kao i u srednjovekovni grad Škofja Loka.

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Međutim, sada nismo išli ka železničkoj stanici, već smo želeli da potražimo neku višu tačku sa koje bismo mogli posmatrati stari grad Kranj. Idući ka pruzi, primetili smo kraj puta stepenice koje su vodile ka drugom, stambenom delu. Odlučili smo da se popnemo. Pozicija je bila odlična, nalazili smo se tačno naspram starog grada. Gore nas je dočekalo ono što smo tražili – kranjski tornjevi i Julijski Alpi koji sežu u oblake. Uživala san u ovom pogledu, i bila presrećna što smo uspeli da ga doživimo. Jer, u turističkoj organizaciji grada nam ovu tajnu nisu otkrili 😉

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Pored ove, Kranj krije još neke tajne. Prva je kanjon Kokre, o kome sam pisala ovde. Druga su podzemni hodnici, koje su Nemci iskopali za vreme Drugog svetskog rata. Jedina tura koja nam je ponuđena je bila u utorak u 17h, što nam nije odgovaralo zbog polaska kući tog dana., Ukoliko budete u prilici, posetite ovu atrakciju pa mi javite utiske 😉 I poslednja tajna ili čak misterija vezana je za kulturni centar Kranja, koji nas je privukao svojim alternativnim umetničkim izgledom, a nalazi se tačno iza železničke stanice. Još jedna razlog da se vratimo ovde!

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Panoramski pogled na Kranj bio je vrhunac naše posete. U njega je stalo sve ono što smo videli i doživeli. Sva ta svežina sa Alpa, svi ti uzdasi oduševljenja, svi mirisi jutarnje kafe sa pogledom i odraz naših lica u bistrim ledenim rekama. Sećanje na putešestvija sa kranjske železničke stanice, i misterija kulturnog centra nadomak nje. Sve ostaje urezano negde – kroz slike i uspomene.

Da li ste vi posetili Kranj? Koja slika je u vama ostavila najupečatljiviji trag? Pišite mi u komentarima svoje utiske!

104 replies on “Kranj – prestonica Gorenjske”

Dva puta smo moćili u Kranju u povratku iz Pariza. Jednom je bio topao letnji dan, a drugi put je bio kišni jesenji dan. Uspeli smo malo da prošetamo gradom i ostavio je utisak grada gde je vreme stalo. Kasno uveče nigde nikoga, a tako je i rano ujutro. Da, očuvane stare fasade, puno cveća i Prešernov spomenik se pamte. Kao i izlozi prodavnica koji su iz XX veka, ali lepo očuvani i interesantno aranžirani. Hotel Creina je svima mesto gde predahnu na dugom putu, a sada je sve više pun Kineza koji odatle kreću u obilazak Evrope.

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