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Metelkova – alternativna četvrt Ljubljane

U samom centru Ljubljane, nedaleko od reke Ljubljanice i starog gradskog jezgra, nalazi se ulica Metelkova, a u njoj i ilegalno oformljeni kulturni centar Metelkova mesto. Za Metelkova mesto kažu da je druga prestonica Slovenije – prestonica slobodnih umetnika, izopštenika, buntovnika i otpadnika. Ova četvrt i istoimena ulica ime su dobile po slovenačkom rimokatoličkom svešteniku, filologu i neuspešnom reformatoru jezika Franu Metelku iz 19. veka.

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Zgrade ove alternativne četvrti prethodno su bile vojne barake. Sive, bezlične, monotone. 1991. godine, kada se Slovenija odvojila od SFRJ, barake su napuštene, a stotine umetnika predložilo je gradu da ih oživi svojim grafitima. Vlada nije dozvolila da se barake zauzmu, tražeći komercijalnije rešenje za napušteni prostor. Nakon dve godine čekanja, mladi aktivisti su ih samoinicijativno zauzeli i oslikali po svom ukusu, udahnuvši im novi život i proglasivši Metelkovu nezavisnom četvrti, uprkos protivljenju gradskih čelnika.

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Vremenom je grad uvideo da se umetnici neće lako predati, i počeo da toleriše njihove ideje. Metelkova je nudila ljubljanskoj omladini dosta toga dobrog – ovde su počele da se održavaju besplatne radionice, književne večeri, filmske projekcije, izložbe i svirke. Metelkova je pružila mladima ulazak u jedan novi svet, koji do tada u Ljubljani nije postojao.

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Kasnije je ona postala glavni kulturni centar Ljubljane, koji ne plaća kiriju niti poreze. To je danas mesto slobodnih ideja, i ono pripada svakome – neovisno o starosti, religiji, rasnoj, nacionalnoj pripadnosti ili seksualnoj orijentaciji. Svi su dobrodošli. Ona nije anarhistička četvrt, već se u saradnji sa gradom, utvrđuju pravila koja bi morala da važe za sve – pravila koja ne sputavaju mlade u iznošenju svog mišljenja i ideja, a koja ih istovremeno štite od svih negativnih uticaja koje ovakav način života može da ostavi.

Za sada su najveći problemi ilegalno zauzimanje prostora i nedozvoljeno točenje alkohola. Pošto ne postoje kontrole na ulazima, vremenom je Metelkova postala pogodna za ilegalno prodavanje droge i prostituciju, te iz tog razloga biva veoma često posećivana od strane policije. Na redovnim sastancima umetnici pokušavaju da donesu trajno rešenje za ove probleme, koje ne bi ugrozilo ni grad niti oduzelo slobodu onima koji ovde dolaze.

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Pri poseti Ljubljani, Metelkova je bila prvo što sam želela da vidim. Šetajući ka njoj prvo smo naišli na igralište ukrašeno grafitima, koje predstavlja predvorje četvrti. Zatim se nailazi na rozu kuću u kojoj se organizuju sastanci i radionice.
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Turisti su ovde i više nego dobrodošli, jer svaki glas o Metelkovoj doprinosi njenom značaju i daje joj prostor u medijima. Ni u jednom trenutku ovde se nisam osećala nesigurno. Bila sam oduševljena onim što vidim. Svaki kutak ovde ima neku priču. Čak i obična klupa ima nešto da vam kaže. Pa i gomila starih dasaka…

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Od starih instrumenata i tehnike napravljene su nadrealistične figure. Stari dekupažirani bicikl služi kao oslonac bara, a tu je i oslikani rustični nameštaj. Automobilske gume postale su ograde za cvećnjake, a iznošena odeća pretvorena je u stolnjake i gardine.

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Kada smo malo dublje zašli u umetničke pore ove četvrti, obratili smo pažnju na svaki detalj – gledali smo i oko sebe, i iznad sebe. Pokušali smo da shvatimo svaki izraz mladalačkog bunta. Neke postavke su nam bile strašne, jezive ili ogavne. Neke su u nama izazvale bes ili tugu, a neke su učinile da se osećamo bolje i radujemo se životu.

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Žao nam je što nismo imali prilike da ovde dočekamo noć – da osetimo atmosferu u Metelkovoj, kada se otvore kafići i galerije, kada se oglase alternativni bendovi, ali i neki poznati DJ-evi koji ovde gostuju. Ali, to ćemo sigurno uraditi narednog puta kada dođemo u Ljubljanu.

Ako ako se vi nekad nađete u Ljubljani, prošetajte do Metelkove. Sigurna sam da će i na vas ostaviti snažan utisak. Čujte glas ujedinjene slovenačke omladine. I za kraj jedan savet – obavezno ponesite fotoaparat. Fotografišite svaku zgradu, svaki kutak, svaku klupu. Ali, nemojte narušiti integritet stanovnika Metelkove – nemojte fotografisati njih, osim ako vas za to sami ne zamole. Ispoštujte njihovu slobodu do kraja.

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Da li ste ikada posetili ovu ili neku sličnu alternativnu četvrt?

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