Buđenje u 5 ujutro hladnog martovskog dana i kafa na tek otvorenoj benzinskoj pumpi – to je bio početak našeg putovanja u Segedin. Smeštanje u autobus i spavanje do granice, Ubrzo posle pasoške kontrole stigle smo u Segedin. Trljajući oči Lidija i ja gledale smo kroz zamagljeni prozor. „Samo da izađemo i nađemo neki langoš!” – bila je rečenica koju smo jedna drugoj pogledom prenele.
Rasanio nas je ledeni vetar čim smo se našle kraj Tise. Namestile smo šalove, kape i tople rukavice i bile spremne za posetu još jednom gradu. Znale smo da je Segedin treći grad po veličini u Mađarskoj, a da je za njegov današnji izgled „zaslužna” poplava koja se dogodila 1879. godine i sravnila grad sa zemljom. Tadašnji vladar, Franc Jozef I obećao je da će grad biti mnogo lepši nego što je bio pre poplave i podigao ga iz ruševina. Mislim da je u tome uspeo, jer mi je Segedin već na prvi pogled odavao utisak muzeja na otvorenom.
Naša prva stanica bio je muzej Ferenca Mora iz 1896. godina. Ova neoklasična građevina čuva kolekciju narodnih umetnina koja sadrži više od 20 000 predmeta, kao i dela poznatih mađarskih slikara. U blizini se nalazi i segedinsko Narodno pozorište iz 1883. godine – jedna od meni lepših građevina ovde.
Šetnju smo zatim nastavili ka Katedralnom trgu, kojim dominira Zavetna crkva, Nakon Velike poplave, meštani Segedina koji nisu izgubili živote i imovinu, zakleli su se da će u zahvalnost Bogu podići veličanstvenu crkvu. Danas je ovo četvrta najveća crkva u Mađarskoj, a karakteristična po tome što ima orgulje sa više od 9000 svirala. a i po ikoni na kojoj je Bogorodica prikazana u narodnoj nošnji.
Ispred Katedrale nalazi se toranj Dimitrija sa satom – najstarija građevina u Segedinu. Građen je od 11. do 13, veka, a danas služi kao izložbeni prostor u kome se može saznati više o njegovoj istoriji, kao i o istoriji krštenja, za koje je prvobitno bio namenjen.
Katedralni trg oivičen je zgradama medicinskog, farmaceutskog i hemiiskog fakulteta. Veoma je prostran i glavno je mesto sastanaka i rastanaka stanovnika Segedina. Nama je služio i kao orijentir, jer se tornjevi Katedrale mogu videti sa bilo kog mesta u gradu.
Nedaleko od Katedrale smeštena je i Srpska pravolsavna crkva iz 1788. godina. To je jedna od retkih građevina koja je preživela Veliku poplavu. Crkvu nažalost nismo posetili, jer sveštenika nije bilo, ali se nadam da ćemo to uraditi prvom prilikom.
Od Katedralnog trga krenuli smo ka glavnoj segedinskoj pešačkoj ulici – ulici Karaš. Bila je nedelja, ali smo svakako očekivale da će bar glavna ulica biti krcata ljudima. Međutim, saznale smo da je u Mađarskoj 15. mart državni praznik – Dan početka Martovske revolucije. Sve prodavnice bile su zatvorene, kao i pekare i kafići. Još jednom sam se setila Lidijine želje da u Segedinu prvi put okusi langoš, ali smo obe bile svesne da se ta želja danas neće ispuniti. Osmeh na lice u ulici Karaš vratile su nam vesele bronzane statue. Pozdravili su nas ulični violinista, jedna dama i jedna devojčica sa psom.
Od glavne pešačke ulice nastavile smo dalje sa vodičem ka Klauzal trgu, na kom se nalazi skuptura velikog revolucionara Lajoša Košuta. Tu je i kuća Karaš sa čijeg je balkona Košuta održao svoj poslednji govor 1849. godine.
još jednom trgu koji je omiljen među stanovnicima Segedina, Ime je dobio po Andrašu Dugoniću, jednog od najpoznatijih mađarskih romanopisaca. Njegova skulptura sagrađena je od lčnih priloga građana i smatra se prvom javnom skulpturom grada. Na ovom trgu nalazi se i fontana izgrađena za stogodišnjicu Velike poplave.
Ipak, pored svih trgova ovde, glavni je Sečenji trg, na kome je glavna znamenitost segedinska Gradska kuća s kraja 18. veka. Zanimljivo je da je Gradska kuća sa susednom zgradom spojena mostom zvanim Most uzdaha jer podseća na venecijanski. Svrha ovog mosta je da se vladaru i njegovoj sviti omogući lakše kretanje iz jedne zgrade u drugu, kao i da se pritom sakriju od pogleda običnog naroda.
Na Sečenji trgu završio je naš obilazak sa vodičem, a mi smo zatim krenule u potragu za kafom. Vratile smo se ka Karaš ulici i ušle u jedini kafić koji je radio, a koji je više podsećao na čitaonicu. Dvadesetak studenata je sedelo sa slušalicama i tabletima, ispijajući kafu. Mi smo se udobno smestile, umorne i smrzle od dosadašnjeg obilaska po hladnom vetru. Ubrzo je stigla moja kafa , a i Lidijin kolač 🙂 Pauza nam je veoma prijala, a na njoj smo isplanirale dalji, samostalni obilazak.
Kada smo napunile baterije, krenule smo ka Tisi. Želele smo da prošetamo kejom, a poslednji cilj bile su nam zgrade izgrađene u stilu secesije. Kako smo se približavale Tisi, vetar je bivao sve jači. Međutim, nismo posustale, i za tili čas bile smo kraj reke. Šetalište krasi veliki broj bronzanih figura. Među njima je i skulptura podignuta u čast zlatne fudbalske reprezentacije Mađarske, koja je 50-ih godina 20. veka dominirala na svim prvenstvima.
Sa šetališta su počele da se naziru prve građevine u duhu secesije Segedin je jedan od gradova u kome je secesija ostavila najjači trag, i smatram da je to ono najlepše što Segedin ima. Još iz autobusa ugledala sam nekoliko božanstvenih zgrada i dala sebi zadatak da ću ih sve obići i fotografisati. Neke od najdražih su mi Dojčeva narodna palata, Grofova palata, Vodotoranj, Reformatorska palata Ede Mađara, Najamna palata Ungara i Majera…
Sve ove građevine zaista jestu remek-dela secesije, ali za mene je Reok palata najlepši primer ovog pravca s početka 20. veka. Palata sa kojom nijedna druga ne može da se poredi. Krase ljubičasti i zlatni floralni detalji, te zelene polukružne terase. Ova harmonija pastelnih boja toliko je prijala mom oku da sam joj se divila dugo. Još kad sam saznala da je arhitekta Edo Mađari imao samo 29 godina kada je uradio nacrt ta nju…Zaista zadivljujuće!
Iznenadilo nas je što Segedin u samom centru grada ima banju! Kupatilo Ana nalazi se tačno preko puta spomenute Grofove palate, i sadrži 10 termalnih bazena, pogodnih pre svega za lečenje organa za varenje. Da smo ostale malo duže, svakako bismo ga posetilie. Do sada nisam bila ni u jednom gradu koji ima banju u samom centru. A vi?
Kako se veče primicalo, bilo je vreme za naš odlazak iz Segedina. Sa odlukom da ćemo ponovo doći: da posetimo Srpsku pravoslavnu crkvu, Kupatilo Ana i napokon probamo taj langoš, oprostile smo se od njega. Tramvajem smo otišle do tržnih centara i napokon utolile glad mađarskim gulašom u jednom od restorana.
I još jednu odluku sam donela – više ne putujem u Mađarsku 15. marta 😉
Da li ste vi posetili Segedin?
213 replies on “Jedan neradni dan u Segedinu”
Ne, nisam posjetio ovo lijepo mjesto, ali s obzirom na ovako lijepi opis mjesta, prekrasnu arhitekturu, ulice, spomenike, umjetnička djela, a koje su ljepote vidljive na predivnim fotografijama, doista bih to volio učiniti. U svakom slučaju predivan post, opis mjesta, a slike ostavljaju bez teksta, svaka čast. Veliki pozdrav.
Hvala mnogo Gorane ? Drago mi je da Vam se tekst dopao i da Vas je motivisao da posetite Segedin. Srdačan pozdrav!
Planiram izlet do Segedina, tako da mi je tekst od pomoci..Mislim da ima dosta toga da ponudi..Divan tekst!!
Hvala mnogo na komentaru! Želim sunčan dan i lep provod ?
Odlican putopis.. ja isto volim jug madjarske kao i neobicna putovanja..
nadam se da ces uskoro sledece godine u Ohrid i napraviti prilog.) Ohrid je uistinu caroban
Hvala na lepim rečima! Imam svakako i Ohrid u planu, volela bih da odem na proleće ili leto, i sigurno će potom biti i putopis ?
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