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Mađarska Putnica

Jesen u Pečuju

U drugom razredu gimnazije putovala sam sa svojim razredom u Budimpeštu. Tom prilikom smo posetili i Baju, Pečuj i Sent Andreu. Međutim, grupa veselih srednjoškolaca, prvi put na ekskurziji u inostranstvu, daleko od roditelja, nije mnogo marila za istorijske činjenice niti upoznavanje kulturnih objekata – glavno je bilo druženje, do ranih jutarnjih sati. Tako je to na ekskurzijama 😉 Zato sa ovog putovanja imam dva foldera – jedan sa fotografijama znamenitosti iz ova četiri grada, a drugi iz noćnog provoda. Pogodite koji je veći 😉

Sada, u 27. godini, poželela sam da se vratim Pečuju i zaista naučim nešto o njemu. Zato sam preko jedne agencije rezervisala jednodnevni izlet, a i Marko mi se pridružio. Polazak je bio u 6h ujutro, a do Pečuja nas je delilo 5 sati putovanja, s obzirom na to da ne postoji auto-put do ovog gradića u Baranji.

Iako su sve vremenske prognoze ukazivale na sunčani jesenji dan, dočekao nas je tmurni Pečuj. Međutim, već od prvog pogleda na građevine razvedrili smo se. Te boje savršeno su se uklapale u jesenju atmosferu; žuto i crveno opalo lišće slagalo se sa bojama pečujskih fasada. Prvi od trgova koji smo videli bio je trg Lajoša Košuta, koji je bio vođa Mađara u Martovskoj revoluciji 1848. godine. Na ovom trgu nalaze se zgrada Rektorata i sinagoga. Zanimljivo je da je Pečuj bio prvi od mađarskih gradova koji je dobio Univerzitet, davne 1387. godine, a i danas pečujski Medicinski fakultet važi za jednog od najboljih u Mađarskoj.

Filozofski fakultet

Sa ovog trga otišli smo na glavni gradski trg – trg Sečenji Ištvana. Sečenji Ištvan bio je grof koji je sve svoje bogatstvo dao za državu. Inicirao je izgradnju velikog broja kulturno- istorijskih objekata, osnovao Mađarsku akademiju nauka i finansirao izgradnju Lančanog mosta u Budimpešti. Smatraju ga najvećim Mađarom, simbolom prosperiteta i rodoljublja.Ne mogu se odlučiti koja mi je od građevina na Sečenji trgu draža. Da li je to Gradska kuća, zgrada Biskupije, Crkva Milosrdne braće sa Žolnai fontanom ili džamija Kasim- paše?

Sečenji trg Pečuj

Gradska kuća mi je sigurno jedna od najlepših koje sam do sada videla ( a videla sam ih mnogo), a mislim da je to zbog njene fasade i baroknih motiva koje je krase.

Gradska kuća Pečuj

Zgrada Biskupije me je posebno šarmirala zbog krova od čuvene Žolnai keramike, ali i zbog oslikanih motiva suncokreta i košnice, kao simbola blagostanja.

Biskupija

Crkva Milosrdne braće sagrađena je 1891. godine, u neorenesansnom stilu. Naziv je dobila po crkvenom redu, kojem je kožar i mlinar Krautsack, inače bez potomaka, ostavio sve svoje nasledstvo, pod uslovom da ovde sagrade apoteku i bolnicu.

Sigurno najzanimljivija građevina u Pečuju jeste Kasim- pašina džamija. Turci su na tlo Baranje došli 1521. godine i zauzeli je, pobedom u bici kod Mohača. Već 1543. godine grade džamiju na mestu gde je do tada dominirala Crkva sv. Bartolomeja. Ipak, već krajem 17. veka na tlo Baranje dolaze Habzburzi i od 1702. godine u džamiji se opet obavlja katolička služba. Džamija je svakodnevno otvorena za posetioce – redovna ulaznica košta 1800, dok je za studente i penzionere cena 900 forinti.

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Pored ove četiri građevine, na Sečenji trgu nalazi se i spomenik Janošu Hunjadiju, nama poznatijem kao Sibinjanin Janko. On se smatra braniteljem hrišćanstva, jer je u više pohoda uspeo da sačuva hrišćanske gradove od prodora Turaka. Jedan je od najcenjenijih mađarskih vladara, te ne čudi činjenica da se i u Pečuju, na glavnom trgu, nalazi njegov spomenik. Podignut je 1954. godine, 500 godina nakon njegove smrti.

Tu je i spomenik kugi, karakterističan za veliki broj evropskih gradova. Ovi spomenici podizali su se u zahvalnost Bogu što je narod spasio od opake bolesti u 18. veku.

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Desno od Sečenji trga skreće se u Kiraly ulicu, najpoznatiju pešačku ulicu grada. U njoj je smešten poznati Platinum hotel, prvi hotel otvoren u Pečuju. U restoranu hotela mogao se tog dana ( nedelja) dobiti ručak za 10 evra, po sistemu all you can eat. Odoleli smo ipak ovoj ponudi, ali društvo iz autobusa je kasnije pohvalilo hranu i ljubaznost konobara.

Ulice Pečuja 2

hotel platinum

U Kiraly ulici smešteno je Narodno pozorište, jedna zaista impozantna građevina. Dve fontane koje krase bronzane figure s maskama pozdraviće vas pre ulaska. Ovo je jedno od najcenjenijih pozorišta Mađarske, a ujedno i zgrada opere.

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Pored Kiraly ulice, oko Sečenji trga može se zaći i u manje poznate, ali jednako lepe pečujske ulice. Iz svake od njih pogled na glavni trg bio je drugačiji, a opet jednako lep. Iznenadilo me je što je grad toliko čist i uređen, videlo se da se brine o fasadama, klupama, zelenilu…

ulice pečuja 1n

Nedelja popodne u Pečuju nije idealno vreme za druženje sa lokalnim stanovništvom, ali je i meni i Marku prijao taj mir u jesenje predvečerje. Posle obilaska jednog dela grada, vreme je bilo za predah, te smo svratili u restoran Bloff Bisztro na Jokai trgu. Ovaj restoran visoko je kotiran na Trip Advisor-u, a odličan je izbor i iz razloga što se nalazi zaista blizu, u ulici preko puta Gradske kuće. Nismo dugo čekali da nam ljubazni mladi konobar donese ukusna rebarca sa topljenim sirom i Cezar salatu.

ceasar salatan

Nakon slanog, red je bio i da se zasladimo i budemo potpuno spremni za dalji obilazak. U poslastičarnici Virag na Sečenji trgu konobar nam je preporučio Holland kocku, naglašavajući da je to lokalni specijalitet. Kremasta kocka prelivena čokoladom, rumom i šlagom sadrži, čini mi se, prekomernu dozu šećera Ali, nismo joj mogli odoleti 😉

Nakon zaslađivanja, nastavili smo šetnju ka pečujskoj Katedrali Sv. Petra i Pavla. Usput smo naišli na ogroman broj “zaključanih ljubavi” u vidu katanaca raznih boja i veličina. Ovaj običaj je u Mađarskoj krenuo iz Pečuja. Naime, kažu da su žene ostavljale katance od kuća svojim ljubavnicima kada bi im muževi odlazili u rat ili na dalek put. Posle ove priče o katancima u Pečuju ovaj običaj ne smatram više romantičnim 🙂

Već kod dela ulice sa katancima videli smo velelpne tornjeve pečujske Katedrale. Njena gradnja počela je davne 1064. godine, a i dan-danas se dograđuje i menja. I u vreme naše posete bazilika je bila u fazi restauracije. S obzirom na njenu starost i bogatu istoriju grada, krase je elementi različitih arhitektonskih stilova. Međutim, njen današnji izgled najviše podseća na renesansne građevine. U 19. veku na vratima je dograđen i ukras u obliku vinove loze, kao zaštitni znak baranjske županije.

Bazilika Pečuj

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Ispred bazilike nalazi se spomenik biskupu Ignacu Sepešiju, a sa desne strane i skulptura poznatog kompozitora Franca Lista. Biskup i kompozitor bili su u veoma dobrim odnosima, a List je odlučio da iskomponuje Pečujsku misu u njegovu čast. Danas je to Estergomska misa.

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Franc List

Pored svega nabrojanog, Pečuj može da se pohvali i kulturno-istorijskim objektom pod zaštitom UNESKO-a, a to je Ranohrišćanski mauzolej koji je pronađen u iskopavanjima 1975. godine, a koji datira iz 4. veka. U blizini je i Cella Septichora centar za turiste, u kom možete napraviti svoj novčić, i sa originalnim suvenirom otići iz Pečuja. Cella Septichora je ranohrišćanska nekropola koja se sastoji iz sedam podzemnih prostorija sa staklenim krovom, tako da je neke delove moguće videti i spolja, bez ulaska u samo podzemlje.

starohrišćanski mauzolej

Cella Septichora

Odmah iza bazilike ulazi se u pečujsku Ulicu muzeja. Tu su smešteni Muzej biskupije, Muzej rudarstva i Žolnai muzej keramike. Nažalost, svi muzeji su u vreme naše posete bili pred zatvaranjem, te smo ih mogli videti samo spolja i odlučili da ih sve posetimo kada dođemo ponovo u Pečuj.

ulica muzeja

ulaz u Žolnai muzej

dvorište Žolnai muzejan

Pored svega viđenog, najviše nam se svidela četvrt Žolnai . Fascinirala me je cela priča o porodici Žolnai, njihovoj manufakturi i porcelanu koji i danas krasi građevine širom Evrope. O kulturnoj četvrti čitajte ovde.

Da li ste vi posetili Pečuj? Da li vam se svideo?

Ukoliko vam se dopao moj tekst iz Pečuja, možete pročitati i tekst o jednodnevnoj poseti Segedinu.

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