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Žolnai – od keramičke manufakture do kulturne četvrti

Pečuj sam kao destinaciju za jednodnevni izlet izabrala iz dva razloga. Prvi: da se prisetim onog što sam kao srednjoškolka videla i doživela u ovom mađarskom gradiću ( o tome sam pisala ovde), a drugi; da posetim kulturnu četvrt Žolnai.

„Po čemu je ta kulturna četvrt tako važna?” – pitate se sad sigurno. „I ko je taj Žolnai?”

Trgovac Mikloš Žolnai osnovao je 1853. godine u Pečuju fabriku specijalizovanu za proizvodnju keramike, porcelana i opekarskih proizvoda. U početku je to bila mala radionica sa nekoliko radnika, i nakon desetak godina rada bila je pred bankrotom. Tada se u njen rad uključuje i Vilmoš Žolnai, jedan od Mikloševih sinova, koji je svojim inovativnim proizvodima fabriku učinio poznatom u celom svetu. Najveći uspeh doživljava na Međunarodnoj izložbi u Parizu, kada osvaja Grand Pri.

Nakon smrti Vilmoša, 1900. godine, fabriku preuzima njegov sin Mikloš. Do 1914. godine ova fabrika bila je najveća u Austrougarskoj, a tokom Prvog svetskog rata proizvodnja je bila u stagnaciji. Nakon izgubljenog tržišta i ponovne uspostave rada, u Drugom svetskom ratu deo proizvodnje u Budimpešti biva bombardovan, što fabrici ponovo donosi probleme. Međutim, i nakon toga ona uspeva da se oporavi i nastavlja sa svojim uspešnim radom do danas.

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U asortimanu fabrike mogu se naći Žolnai porcelan – za koji je Vilmoš Žolnai odlikovan Nacionalnim ordenom legije časti, eosin – živopisna glazura zelene boje koja se na suncu preliva u svim duginim bojama, veoma otporna na vremenske uslove, koja krasi najveći broj građevina iz doba secesije i čiji se proizvodni proces čuva kao tajna fabrike, i pirogranit – zajedničko ime svih keramika koje se koriste za spoljnu upotrebu, takođe otporna na visoke i niske temperature.

Neki primerci Žolnai umetnina

Izvor: www.zsolnaynegyed.hu

Prilikom posete fabrici možete se upoznati sa istorijom porodice Žolnai i istorijom fabrike – u zgradi od koje je sve krenulo. Najprivlačnija postavka turistima svakako je Pink Zsolnay, koja obuhvata 1200 predmeta iz perioda pre 1853. godine, koju karakteriše pink glazura, nastala kao rezultat veoma uspešnog Vilmoševog eksperimentisanja. Ako se ovde nađete radnim danima, možete prisustvovati i samom procesu proizvodnje keramike. I treća, Gyugyi ( Đuđi) kolekcija je otvorena za posetioce. Nju čini 600 najreprezentativnijih primeraka zlatnog doba fabrike. Cene ulaznica i dodatne informacije možete pronaći ovde.

Žolnai kulturna četvrt

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Fabrika je udaljena 15ak minuta hoda od samog centra Pečuja, a danas je ona deo Kulturne četvrti Žolnai. Naime, u periodu kada se Pečuj pripremao da postane Evropska prestonica kulture ( 2004 – 2010 ), osmišljen je projekat kulturne četvrti, i ubrzo je počela izgradnja koncertne dvorane, lutkarskog pozorišta, planetarijuma i ugostiteljskih objekata oko fabrike, kako bi tu titulu dočekao oformljen kulturni centar u kome bi se skupljali ne samo mladi, već i turisti iz raznih delova sveta koji žele da, bar na nekoliko sati, uđu u čudesni Žolnai svet.

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Tako smo i mi, jednog nedeljnog jutra, ušli u Žolnai svet. Svaki deo kulturne četvrti privukao je našu pažnju. Kompaktnost boja i motiva na svakoj od građevina ovde pružila je pravi umetnički doživljaj posetiocima. Grifini koji čuvaju ulaz u četvrt, prirodom okružena fontana, plave vaze i šareni krovovi ukrašeni škart materijalom – sve se to perfektno uklapalo u jesenju atmosferu opalog raznobojnog lišća. Iz koncertne dvorane su dopirali zvuci klavira – neki student Muzičke akademije vredno je vežbao neku klavirsku simfoniju. Da li smo mogli imati lepši doživljaj?

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Žolnai kulturna četvrt park

Žolnai kulturna četvrt 1

.Za kraj naše posete i učenja o porodici umetnika prošetali smo do brdašca preko puta ulaza u kompleks, gde se nalazi mauzolej u kom je sahranjen Mikloš Žolnai i cela njegova porodica. Radnici fabrike su sakupili novac za izgradnju mauzoleja, jer su smatrali da je njihov gazda to zaslužio. Postoji i legenda koja kaže da će jednog decembarskog dana na njegov grob pasti sunčevi zraci koji će otkriti tajnu kako se dobija eosin.

mauzolej Žolnai

Za obilazak celog izložbenog kompleksa potreban je minimalno jedan, a sigurno i više dana. Zbog toga smo odlučili da ćemo sigurno ponovo doći u Pečuj, samo da bismo natenane sve obišli. Možda baš jednog sunčanog decembarskog dana?

Od sada, kud god da krenem, tražiću primerke Žolnai umetnosti. Pronašla sam neke u Pečuju, Segedinu i Subotici. A vi? Pogledajte, možda i u vašem gradu ima neki 🙂 Pa mi javite!

Žolnai i ja

Pozdrav iz Pečuja!

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