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Izlet u Opustaser: lekcija iz mađarske istorije

Opustaser ( mađ. Opusztaszer) je nacionalni spomen- park istorije Mađarske koji posetiocima priča o doseljavanju Mađara u Panonsku niziju, te utemeljenju mađarske nacije na ovim prostorima. Kompleks je udaljen 30 km od Segedina i prostire se na 55 hektara. Nakon kratke prepodnevne posete Segedinu, turistička agencija Putokaz 021 organizovala je fakultativni izlet do Opustasera – a to se nije smelo propustiti.

Deo izložbene postavke spomen- parka može se videti u Rotundi, njegovom centralnom objektu, a deo u bašti, u okviru etno- muzeja na otvorenom, koji nam pruža pogled u svet sa kraja 19. veka. Naš obilazak Opustasera ne bi bio potpun bez lokalnog vodiča Dore, koja je sa mnogo entuzijazma i energije pričala o svim događajima koji su se dogodila na tlu današnje Mađarske od 896. do 1896. godine.Zašto su ove dve godine važne? 896. godina je godina kada se sedam mađarskih plemena pod vođstvom Arpada trajno naseljava u mesto Ser ( mađ. Szer). 1896. godine se proslavljao milenijum od tog istorijskog događaja.Obilazak smo započeli u Rotundi, čija je svaka izložbena prostorija kamenčić jednog velikog mozaika kog smo na kraju obilaska poneli kući.

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Rotunda je izgrađena u periodu od 1981. do 1991. godine, a njen oblik podseća na izgled tradicionalne nomadske kuće – jurte. Skelet ovih kuća bio je sačinjen od drveta, dok su se spolja oblagale filcom, najčešće od ovčije vune, kako ne bi propuštale vodu. Žene su bile zadužene za izgradnju jurte, a za sklapanje i raskapanje kuće bilo im je potrebno oko četiri sata. Žene su takođe ukrašavale eksterijer, najčešće simbolima u obliku trougla, jarkih boja, kako bi njima oterale zle duhove.

Svaka jurta delila se na muški i ženski deo. Muški deo je bio veći, i na zidovima muške strane visilo je oružje i oruđe koje su muškarci upotrebljavali. Međutim, i žene su umele da rukuju kombinovanim lukom i strelom, kao i jednoseklom sabljom, i bile su odlične u borbama. U sredini kuće nalazilo se ognjište, iznad kog se spremala hrana. Vatra se palila uz pomoć kresiva i kremena. Članovi plemena su verovali da u ognjištu žive duhovi njihovih predaka, pa su prvi zalogaj pri svakom obroku bacali u vatru, kako bi im ukazali čast. Iznad ognjišta nalazio se otvor kroz koji bi izlazio dim, a ulazio svež vazduh. Kako nisu imali prozore, ovaj otvor je služio i za osvetljenje. Pri ulasku u jurtu, članovi plemena su preskakali prag, jer je vladalo verovanje da i tu, ispod praga, žive duhovi predaka, koje ne bi trebalo probuditi.

I ja sam, kao i cela naša grupa, sa vodičem Srđanom, imala priliku da sedim u jurti, da zapalim vatru uz pomoć kremena i kresiva, da vidim različite strele koje su plemenima služila za lov na krupnu divljač, vodene ptice, ribe, ali i za odbranu od neprijatelja – strele koje su mogle da dosegnu daljinu i do 800m! Ovde smo mogli videti i njihovu tradicionalnu odeću, koja se uglavnom sastojala od pantalona, kaftana – gornjeg dela nalik na tuniku, i košulje, na čijim su obodima često bili istaknuti ukrasi od zlata ili srebra. Nakit je bio obavezan za sve bogatije članove plemena.

U drugoj izložbenoj prostoriji Rotunde mogu se videti i etape konstrukcije nekadašnjeg manastira, kao i i kalup zvona pronađenog u arheološkim istraživanjima u 20. veku. Manastir je prvenstveno bio jednodomna, pa četvorodomna crkva, zatim bazilika, pa manastir. U 16. veku biva uništen od strane Turaka, a u okviru otvorenog muzeja Opustasera mogu se videti njegovi ostaci, na jednom brdašcu. Kraj ruševina manastira nalazi se i biljna bašta sa 100 različitih vrsta biljaka, koje možete pomirisati i dodirnuti, ali ne i brati.

Međutim, zgrada Rotunde je prvenstveno sagrađena za potrebe čuvanja i prikazivanja kružne slike ,”Dolazak Mađara u Panonsku niziju”, poznatijom pod nazivom “Panorama Festi”. Sa prečnikom od 38m, dužinom od 120m i širinom od 15m, ovo je jedna od 50ak kružnih slika koje se mogu naći u svetu. Sliku je naslikao Arpad Festi sa svojim saradnicima 1896. godine, za proslavu milenijumske godišnjice od naseljavanja Mađara. Slikanje je trajalo 2 godine, a Arpad Festi oslikavao je nebo. Ovaj motiv uzeo je na predlog svog tasta, iako je prvenstveno želeo da slika motiv biblijske poplave. U slikanju je učestvovala i njegova žena, a pošto je bila amater u slikanju, njen zadatak je bio da slika mrtva tela, jer je to bilo mnogo lakše nego slikati ljude u pokretu. Slika je bila prvenstveno izložena u Budimpešti, pa u Londonu, a zatim je ponovo vraćena u Budimpeštu, gde je pogođena bombom za vreme Drugog svetskog rata i pretrpela veliku štetu. Restauraciju slike vršili su poljski slikari, a rekli su da je najteže bilo ponovo oslikati nebo – što samo govori o tome koliki je Arpad Festi bio umetnik.

Ova veličanstvena slika je zaista nešto najfascinantnije što sam do sada ikada videla na putovanjima. Dok sam se nalazila u centru kruga, pratila sam, u smeru kazaljke na satu, svetlosne snopove koji padaju na delove slike i na taj način se vratila 1122 godine unazad. Posmatrala sam kneza Arpada na belom konju, koji sa svojim poglavicama slavi pobedu nad starosedeocima. Vođa starosedelaca , ratnik Latorc, iščekuje svoju sudbinu, dok ga teše uplakane ćerke u poslednjim trenucima života. Svetlost zatim pada na Arpadovu ženu, koja predvodi dugu kolonu mađarskih doseljenika. Oko porušenog oltara starosedelaca vide se leševi poginulih vojnika. Njihove preživele žene čeka ropstvo… Sledeći prizor prikazuje plemenskog vrača koji prinosi žrtvu bogovima u vidu belog konja. Narod očekuje božiji znak, to jest dozvolu da se napokon negde trajno naseli. Beli dim koji kulja iz vatre znak je da su bogovi uslišili molbu Mađara. Osim što sam posmatrala, mogla sam i da čujem topot konja, plač udovica, koračanje doseljenika… Slika je toliko realistična da se zaista osećate kao deo nje. Bila mi je čast svedočiti ovom događaju.

Moja druga omiljena postavka u Rotundi jeste Promenada 1896. Građanski svet s kraja 19. veka prikazan je u jednoj velegradskoj ulici. Dame i gospoda šetaju ruku pod ruku u odelima i elegantnim haljinama, sa umerenim osmehom na licu – jer ih korseti, koje nose oba pola, veoma stežu. Korsete su nosile i trudnice, što je bio uzrok velike smrtnosti novorođenčadi u ovo vreme. Primetili smo i da su suknje damama postajale sve kraće, a razlog tome je veliki broj bakterija koje su duge suknje kupile pri hodu. Na ulici vidmo zaposlene ljude – u kafanama, restoranima, prodavnicama, pekarama, ali i siromašnu decu, prinuđenu na rad, koja prodaju novine ili čiste cipele gospodi. Tu je i prvi bicikl – koji nije imao kočnice, te je bilo veoma teško njime upravljati. Kažu da je gazio sve pred sobom, a da se kočilo jedino pri udaru u neku kuću ili drvo.

Iz Rotunde smo, pred kraj naše posete Opustaseru, izašli sa Dorom napolje i prošetali do Arpadovog mauzoleja, oko koga se nalaze skulpture važnih mađarskih vladara tokom vekova. Tu smo se popeli na brdašce sa koga smo posmatrali ruševine manastira, kao i ekološke jurte koje je projektovao arhitekta Csete. One su u ovo doba godine, nažalost, zatvorene, ali se nadam da ću njihov enterijer videti pri nekoj narednoj poseti Mađarskoj.

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Poslednja postavka na otvorenom koju smo uspeli videti pre samog zatvaranja memorijalnog parka jeste segedinski salaš. Ovde žive domaće životinje – mangulica, mađarski pas puli i ovce, a tu su i opština, pošta, pekara i prodavnica koje su radnim danima otvorene i u kojima se mogu kupiti pecivo i namirnice. Tu je i par starih autentičnih segedinskih kuća koje su prenete u park kako bi ostale sačuvane u svom prvobitnom obliku.

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Jedno popodne u Opustaseru bilo je dovoljno da vidim, doživim i naučim nešto o istoriji Mađarske. Zaista sam zadivljena onim što me je ovde dočekalo: gostoprimstvom i ljubaznošću mlade Dore, celokupnim ambijentom i onim što Mađari ostavljaju budućim pokolenjima, kako nikad ne bi zaboravila svoju istoriju.

Da li biste vi posetili Opustaser?

Ovo putovanje omogućila mi je turistička agencija Putokaz 021 iz Novog Sada. Na njihovoj Facebook stranici možete videti sve ponude za naredni period. Možda se i vidimo na nekoj od narednih tura 😉

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Thanks for sharing your ideas. One thing is that college students have a selection between fed student loan plus a private education loan where it is easier to opt for student loan debt consolidation than through the federal student loan.

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I do believe that a property foreclosure can have a important effect on the borrower’s life. Mortgage foreclosures can have a 7 to few years negative affect on a applicant’s credit report. The borrower who has applied for a mortgage or virtually any loans for example, knows that the worse credit rating is, the more tough it is to have a decent personal loan. In addition, it can affect the borrower’s power to find a respectable place to let or rent, if that gets to be the alternative property solution. Great blog post.

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Thanks for sharing your ideas with this blog. Furthermore, a fantasy regarding the lenders intentions while talking about property foreclosures is that the traditional bank will not getreceive my installments. There is a specific amount of time which the bank will take payments from time to time. If you are as well deep in the hole, they are going to commonly call that you pay that payment in full. However, i am not saying that they will not take any sort of payments at all. When you and the loan company can manage to work anything out, your foreclosure practice may end. However, should you continue to neglect payments within the new plan, the property foreclosures process can just pick up from where it left off.

Thanks for the helpful write-up. It is also my opinion that mesothelioma cancer has an extremely long latency time, which means that signs of the disease would possibly not emerge right until 30 to 50 years after the preliminary exposure to asbestos fiber. Pleural mesothelioma, that’s the most common sort and is affecting the area across the lungs, might cause shortness of breath, breasts pains, and a persistent coughing, which may cause coughing up maintain.

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Today, I went to the beachfront with my kids. I found a sea shell and gave it to my 4 year old daughter and said “You can hear the ocean if you put this to your ear.” She put the shell to her ear and screamed. There was a hermit crab inside and it pinched her ear. She never wants to go back! LoL I know this is completely off topic but I had to tell someone!

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I would like to add if you do not already have an insurance policy otherwise you do not form part of any group insurance, you could well benefit from seeking the assistance of a health insurance agent. Self-employed or individuals with medical conditions generally seek the help of the health insurance brokerage. Thanks for your writing.

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