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Hrvatska Putnica

Advent u Zagrebu – prava božićna bajka!

Sedela sam u autobusu, naslonjena na prozor, i nadala se da će prestati kiša. Kako da dođem prvi put u Zagreb, prvi put u Hrvatsku, a da me prati tako bezvezno vreme? Kako ću šetati, kako ću klizati, kako ću osetiti čari adventa, kako ću fotografisati? Pljuštalo je sve jače u trenucima kada smo ulazili u grad, Dobro je što sam u poslednjem trenutku u ruksak spakovala kišobran. Zatrebaće.

Desetak autobusa bilo je parkirano duž Vlaške ulice. Svi su se gurkali i pogledom tražili svog vodiča. Naš vodič je visoko nosio narandžastu fasciklu. Sudarajući se nehotice kišobranima stigli smo do Trga bana Josipa Jelačića. Tu je bajka mogla da počne!

U turističkom info centru uzela sam mapu sa ucrtanim adventskim postavkama širom grada i krenula u pohod, U jednoj ruci kišobran, u drugoj mapa…Ne bi bilo praktično odmah nešto jesti ili piti, iako su se mirisi kuvanog vina, kobasica, medenjaka, fritula i drugih đakonija širili prolazima između dekorisanih štandova…Oko fontane Manduševac ispleten je adventski venac, na kome su sada već upaljene dve sveće. Čak su i prozori pastelnih zgrada koje oivičavaju trg ukrašeni. Vidi se da su Zagrepčani mislili na svaki detalj. Prava Božićna bajka.

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Krenula sam Praškom ulicom, ka Umetničkom paviljonu. Negde na sredini ulice dočekao me je još jedan božićni vašar: Zrinjevac! Zrinjevac se smatra jednim od najlepših parkova u Zagrebu. U ovo doba godine svako njegovo drvo ukrašeno je srebrnim lampicama, koje su svetlucale i tada, ulepšavajući mi tmurni kišni dan. Mališani su se slikali sa snežnom kuglom, a na bini se mogla čuti proba benda koji će nastupiti uveče. Bilo mi je žao što ću u Zagrebu ostati samo jedan dan i što neću imati priliku da uživam u svirci.

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Nakon toga stigla sam do Fuliranja. Kažu da „pretvara maštu u stvarnost, a snove u realnost” Ovde sam videla najviše mladih – izgleda sa je to jedno od kul mesta na kom se mladi sreću i šire božićnu razdraganost jedni s drugima. I ja sam im se pridružila uveče i uživala u ovoj toploj atmosferi koliko mi je vreme dozvolilo. Zaista čarobno!

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Kod žute zgrade u stilu secesije – Umetničkog paviljona, počinje Trg kralja Tomislava, prvog hrvatskog kralja. Tu je, naravno, i njegov spomenik. Ali, ono zbog čega sam posebno želela ovde da dođem, jeste Ledeni park – što je ujedno i ime ovog adventskog punkta. Nažalost, kiša me je omela da ostvarim svoj san i izvedem piruetu s pogledom na Glavni kolodvor i šarene božićne štandove. Možda naredne godine?

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U povratku ka Trgu bana Jelačića prošla sam kroz Marićev prolaz – posebno zanimljiv zbog isprepletanih svetlucavih grana koje ga krase. Romantična šetnja pod zvezdama neće nijedan zaljubljeni par ostaviti ravnodušnim.

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Kad sam izašla iz prolaza – kiša je prestala. Možda on zaista nosi neku čaroliju? Napokon sam mogla da spakujem kišobran u ruksak i posmatram grad i ljude. Više se nismo sudarali kišobranima – već osmesima.

I sve se poklopilo – jer sam mogla potpuno da doživim pogled na zagrebačke krovove i tornjeve sa Klovićevih dvora, u idliličnoj atmosferi Gornjeg grada. Nisam marila za duge redove za fotografisanje u ramovima u oblicima božićnih motiva, fotografisala sam se samo na mestima gde nije bila velika gužva. Želela sam da osetim atmosferu i zapamtim te poglede, a u tome sam uspela.

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Sišla sam niz stepenice koje su vodile ka možda najpopularnijem i meni lično najlepšem adventu u Caffe de Matoš. Zaista je bilo smešno kada mi je jedna ljubazna prodavačica rekla da je to kafe na otvorenom, nakon što sam 10 minuta tražila pravi, zatvoreni kafić! Sve vreme sam bila u njemu 😉 Ovde vlada posebna božićno – romantična atmosfera. Crveno, volim te crveno! Fenjeri suptilno osvetljavaju s ljubavlju uređene stolove za dvoje, a na svakoj stolici tu je i mekano ćebe u koje se možete ušuškati pri ispijanju kafe ili čaja. Iznad vas lebde crvena srca i kugle. Dok šetate, na svakom koraku možete naći odličan kutak za fotografisanje…Toliko je romantično da smo ovde videli i novopečene mladence…
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A kad sam se spustila niz stepenice, odmah kraj žičare – jedne od najzanimljivijih atrakcija koju zbog ogromne gužve nisam probala, stigla sam do Adventa na Štrosu – Štrosmartra. Odavde sam ponovo posmatrala grad iz ptičje perspektive i napokon probala nešto od gastronomskih delicija – kobasicu češnjovku, Izvrsno!

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Nakon pauze i kafe u kafeu Argentina ( pravi, zatvoreni kafić) vreme je bilo za večernji obilazak. Još jednom sam prošetala ulicama Zagreba, i još jednom osetila tu predbožićnu groznicu. Zaustavljala sam se na svakom štandu Evropskog trga, još jednom obišla Donji grad i zasladila se uz fritule sa nutelom. Sve je vrvelo od ljudi. Mladih, starijih, dece… Ulice su bile preplavljene, bilo mi je neshvatljivo da ljudi šetaju i po kolovozima, a da se vozači tramvaja zbog toga ne bune. Da li ih je sve uhvatila neka predbožićna ludost? Biće da jeste 🙂

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Ali ta ludost mi se svidela. Jer i sama volim da vidim i osetim toleranciju, razdraganost i osmehe. Da se osećam dobrodošlo i prihvaćeno, bez obzira na to odakle sam. A tako sam se zaista osećala u Zagrebu. Falio je samo sneg, da bajka bude potpuna. Zato se radujem sledećoj godini!

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Ako niste posetili Advent u Zagrebu, imate još vremena 😉 Javljajte mi utiske!

A ako vas zanima gde još možete na advent, pročitajte ovaj tekst.

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