Taman kad sam mislila da više nigde neću putovati ove 2018. godine, sačekala me je u inboksu Marijanina poruku; „Deni, hoćeš li sa nama u Budimpeštu?” Nakon malo razmišljanja i organizacije, pristala sam. Naravno da jesam, jer, kako odbiti putovanje? Još jednom sam se našla u autobusu sa ostalim putnicima turističke agencije Putokaz 021.
Te noći pred polazak napadao je pravi sneg. Toliko da se taksi jedva provukao do moje zgrade. Psovao je taksista što putevi nisu očišćeni i pitao me zašto putujem po takvom vremenu. Verovatno je mislio da sam luda, kada sam sa osmehom izustila. „Ja volim sneg. Idem u Budimpeštu. ” 😉
Taj sneg pratio nas je tokom čitavog izleta. Vejalo je bez prestanka i u trenutku kad smo ušli u grad. Kroz prozore smo posmatrali snežne ulice i parkove pored kojih smo prelazili. Od svih podataka koje smo dobili od fantastičnog vodiča Srđana, najveći utisak na mene ostavio je podatak o ulici Rakoczi.. Ovu ulicu nazivaju ulicom života, jer se na njenom početku nalazi porodilište, u sredini pozorište, a na samom njenom kraju – groblje. Ona, dakle, predstavlja naše živote. Rodimo se u porodilištu, zatim glumimo u nekoj predstavi, a kraj nam je svima isti. Tužno – ali istinito.
Na budimpeštansko tlo kročili smo kod impresivnog Trga heroja. Krupne pahulje topile su se na našim kaputima dok smo posmatrali Milenijumski spomenik. Izgrađen je povodom hiljadite godišnjice od dolaska Mađara u Panonsku niziju, 1896. godine, te otuda taj naziv. Na vrhu 36m visokog korintskog stuba nalazi se statua krilatog anđela Gavrila, posrednika između Boga i ljudi. U podnožju spomenika vidimo 7 konjanika – 7 plemenskih poglavica, od kojih je glavni Arpad. Iza Milenijumskog spomenika nalaze se dve polukružne kolonade sa statuama četrnaest istaknutih istorijskih ličnosti Mađarske. Poređani su hronološkim redom – od Arpadovića do Habzburgovaca. Prazan deo se odnosi na period turske vladavine Mađarskom, od 1541 do 1718. godine.
Od Trga heroja krenuli smo zatim ka Vajdahunjadi dvorcu, prolazeći pored najvećeg klizališta na otvorenom u Evropi. Ovo klizalište je u stvari zaleđeno jezerce koje se puni vodom iz obližnje banje Sečenji. Sa nadvožnjaka sam posmatrala decu i roditelje koji radosno klizaju u susret jedni drugima. Odavde su se već videli vrhovi tornjeva Vajdahunjadi dvorca, koji se potpuno uklapao u ovu snežnu atmosferu.
Dvorac se nalazi na kraju Gradskog parka, čije staze su u ovo doba godine dekorisane u duhu Adventa. Štandovi sa kobasicama, kuvanim vinom, ukrasima, suvenirima, i raznim poslasticama mame vas da zastanete i probate nešto od tradicionalnih mađarskih proizvoda.
Međutim, naš cilj je bilo dvorište dvorca, koji nas je vratio u 13. vek. Romanika, gotika, renesansa , barok – na dvorcu smo videli tragove svih pravaca, što mu je dalo neki poseban šarm.
A najšarmantniji momak koji sedi u dvorištu i rado se slika sa turistima je svakako Anonimus – beležnik koji je 896. godine opisao dolazak Mađara u Panoniju i zabeležio imena sedmorice plemenskih vođa, u knjizi “Gesta Hungarorum” . Anonimus sedi, sa kapuljačom preko glave i rukopisom i perom u rukama. Veruje se da se, dodirivanjem njegovog pera, ispunjava zamišljena želja. Javiću vam da li je istinito 😉
Nakon šetnje po Gradskom parku, ponovo smo se našli u autobusu. Sledeća tačka obilaska bila je Budimska tvrđava. To je bio momenat koji sam najviše čekala. Panoramski pogled sa Budimske tvrđave pamtim još od svojih gimnazijskih dana. Jer, Budimpešta je bila moja prva inostrana destinacija 2008. godine 😉
Dok smo prelazili Lančani ( Sečenji ) most, Srđan nas je zamolio da prekrstimo prste, u nadi da se most neće srušiti. Legenda kaže da če se most srušiti kada preko njega pređe verna Mađarica. Od 1840. godine, kada je izgrađen, to se nije dogodilo 😉 Sa Lančanog mosta uočili smo i kamen nultog kilometra, od koga se meri udaljenost ka bilo kom mestu na svetu. A ispred nas belila se veličanstvena Budimska tvrđava.
Budimska tvrđava mi je najdraži deo Budimpešte, ne samo zbog pogleda, već i zbog divnih građevina koje je krase. Tu su Ribarski bastion, Crkva kralja Matije, Kraljevska palata – zdanja koja su istorijski značajna za grad.
Ribarski bastion ime je dobio po ribarima koji su nekada na ovom mestu prodavali svoj ulov, Čini ga 7 belih tornjeva – svaki toranj simboliše po jednog poglavicu mađarskih plemena. Tornjevi su posebno interesantni jer odaju utisak duha srednjeg, iako su izgrađeni tek u 19. veku. Ispred belih kula nalazi se statua svetog Ištvana, prvog mađarskog kralja.
Crkva kralja Matije potiče iz 13. veka. Nosi njegovo ime jer je tu i krunisan i dva puta venčan. Ova crkva nalazi se odmah kraj Ribarskog bastiona, a pleni svojom veličinom i lepotom.
Kraljevska palata građena je između 14. i 15. veka, a u njoj se nalaze Nacionalna biblioteka i Muzej istorije grada. Raskošnu palatu karakteriše prepoznatljiva zelena kupola.
Dok sam šetala Budimskom tvrđavom, obuzeo me je neki čaroban osećaj. Imali smo Peštu na dlanu! Iako kroz maglu, mogli smo posmatrati Dunav, najlepše evropske mostove, i zgradu Parlamenta preko puta. Sneg je i dalje padao, ali nam više nije smetao. Meni je, naprotiv, ulepšao ovu posetu gradu. Jer, ko zna da li ću ikad više uhvatiti Budimpeštu u svečanoj beloj haljini?
Spustili smo se sa Budimske tvrđave i ponovo krenuli ka Pešti. Prošetali smo glavnom pešačkom ulicom Vaci i usput posmatrali izloge knjižara, butika, suvenirnica. dok su se iznad nas postepeno palile ulične svetiljke. Skrenuli smo i ka Srpskoj ulici, želeći da posetimo Srpsku pravoslavnu crkvu. Nažalost, kapija je bila zatvorena. Ali, zvona crkve iz 18. veka oglasila su se u 16h. Barem smo tome uspeli posvedočiti.
U Vaci ulici bilo je mirno u ovo doba. Taman se zatvorila i tržnica, prodavci su otišli kućama. Bilo je vreme za doživljaj Budimpešte noću. A gde drugo potražiti muziku, društvo i radost, nego na božićnim vašarima?
Kako je bilo na Adventu u Budimpešti i koje sam još građevine pritom otkrila – pišem vam u narednom tekstu 😉
Zahvaljujem se Marijani i Srđanu iz turističke agencije Putokaz 021 koji su mi omogućili ovo putovanje!
Ako vam se svideo ovaj, možete pročitati i ostale tekstove iz Mađarske na blogu:
Izlet u Opustaser – lekcija iz mađarske istorije
Jesen u Pečuju
Žolnai – od keramičke manufakture do kulturne četvrti
Jedan neradni dan u Segedinu
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