Palo je veče i Budimpešta se presvukla. Belu svečanu haljinu zamenila je elegantnom crnom. Graciozna i kulturna. Svetlucava. U novogodišnjem izdanju.
Odmorila sam se i zgrejala ispijajući vruči voćni čaj u Anna Cafe- u. Tu, u mirnom kutku za dvoje, sedela sam ovog puta sama. Za stolom naspram mog sedela je grupa razdraganih Dalmatinaca. Upila sam mirise čokoladnih kolača kojima su posluženi, a pritom oslušnula i njihov razgovor. Tema je bio njihov Couchsurfing domaćin – Hakim iz Azarbejdžana. Komentarisali su kako ih je Hakim velikodušno dočekao i kako mu moraju napisati pozitivnu referencu.
Vreme provedeno u kafiću iskoristila sam za pretraživanje najlepših adventskih punktova u gradu, želeći da ih sve obiđem i osetim adventski duh. U trenutku kada su momci spomenuli Couchsurfing, setih se da on ne služi samo za traženje smeštaja, već i za druženje sa lokalnim stanovništvom – da sadrži i opciju Hang Out. Otvorila sam aplikaciju i aktivirala svoj „hangout mode”, u nadi da ću pronaći nekog normalnog s kim bih mogla provesti vreme u Budimpešti, a možda i saznati nešto možda sasvim novo o gradu,
Za par sekundi javile su se četiri osobe i od svake sam dobila privatnu poruku. Joanna iz Belgije i jedan momak iz Argentine sedeli su u kafiću nadomak mog i tu su želeli i da ostanu do večernjih sati. Jedan Portugalac želeo je da ide na Budimsku tvrđavu. A četvrti – dotični Hakim iz Azerbejdžana, želeo je da obilazi božićne markete. Setih se razgovora razdraganih Dalmatinaca, ali pomislih da bi bila prevelika verovatnoća da je u pitanju ista osoba. Pročitala sam njegove recenzije, i kako su sve bile pozitivne, odlučila da ga upoznam. Dogovorili smo se da se nađemo u 19h kod Bazilike svetog Ištvana.
Ali, do 19h imala sam još dva sata vremena, Taman toliko da doživim noćni ritam grada u vreme Adventa! Krenula sam ka Vorosmarty trgu i već pri prvom pogledu na njega ostala zapanjena raskošnom jelkom koja ga krasi. I ne samo jelkom, već i celokupnom euforijom koja je ovde vladala. Dočekali su me redovi za langoš, kobasice, kolenice, dimljenog lososa, kurtoš kolače… Ali, u tim redovima su svi bili ljubazni i nasmejani. Kinezi, Skandinavci, Nemci, Hrvati, Francuzi – svi su se sjatili na jednom mestu, u cilju da probaju nešto od mađarskih ukusnih jela. Zbog paprenih cena odlučila sam se za langoš sa sirom, pavlakom i belim lukom. Pojela sam ga pod nadstrešnicom sa Slovacima i Kinezima. 🙂
Od Vorosmarty trga nastavila sam pravo, i kako nisam imala mapu, odlučila da pratim reku ljudi.Tako sigurno ne mogu pogrešiti.
Prvo su me odveli do Budimpeštanskog oka – Budapest Eye točka. Iako je zima već odavno stigla u Budimpeštu, ljudi su i dalje, u debelim jaknama, obmotani zimskom vunenom opremom, uživali u pogledu na Budimpeštu pri vožnji džinovskim točkom.
Odjednom sam primetila da se gužva povećava, i slutila sam da se približavam Bazilici. Posmatrala sam i dalje štandove – ovde je dimljeni losos bio glavni na meniju. Do tada sam mislila da je trg Vorosmarty najvažniji božićni market, ali me je dolazak ovde potpuno razuverio. Gurala sam se strpljivo kroz masu, a onda je ispred mene bljesnulo! Bazilika svetog Ištvana nadgleda ovaj trg svom svojom veličinom. Tek kada sam se udaljila dvadesetak koraka mogla sam videti njeno pročelje. Iznad mene svetlucao je zlatni improvizovani krov u obliku cirkuskog šatora, čija su krila ovaj trg učinila svečanim. A ispod njega – raskošna crvena jelka. “Budimpešta je zaista elegantno obučena”, pomislila sam.
Pošto sam imala dovoljno vremena do susreta sa Hakimom, odlučila sam da odem do Dunava i iskoristim vreme za večernju šetnju. Brzo sam izbila na kej, spustivši se stepenicama kraj Lančanog mosta. Sneg mi je škripao pod nogama dok sam laganim korakom šetala duž reke. Sada, kad je pala noć. mogla sam posmatrati Budimpeštu u svom njenom sjaju. Sve ono što sam videla tokom dana ( o tome sam pisala ovde) sada je u meni budilo neka sasvim druga osećanja. Nakon gužve i buke na božićnim pijacama, prijao mi je mir, i ta tišina koja je svojstvena rekama. Usput sam srela nekoliko zagrljenih parova, koje sam sa zadovoljstvom fotografisala. Za kraj šetnje sam se divila veličanstvenoj zgradi Parlamenta, pred čijom pojavom svaki put ostanem nema.
Bilo je četvrt do 7, a ja sam želela stići na vreme, kako ne bih ostavila svog domaćina da čeka. Vratila sam se ka Bazilici i stala na stepenice ispred. Primetila sam da je ovo često mesto sastanka, jer je kraj mene čekalo još dvadesetak ljudi 🙂 Nadala sam se da će me Hakim prepoznati, jer ja slabo pamtim lica, a da budem iskrena, nisam ni previše zagledala njegovu fotografiju. Crkva je oglasila 19h, a ja sam imala blagu tremu. Ipak je ovo bilo prvi put da se s nekim nalazim “na slepo”.
Odjednom sam ispred stepenica na kojima sam stajala, sada već skoro sama, u masi primetila gurkanje, nameštanje, kao da se nešto sprema. Pogledala sam ka crkvi, i videla da počinje neka animacija. Sišla sam sa stepenica i pridružila se masi, tražeći dobro mesto za posmatranje predivne božićne 3D projekcije. Kasnije sam saznala da se ona tokom adventskog perioda odigrava na svakih sat vremena i da se može posmatrati iz svih uglova Trga svetog Ištvana.
Kada je projekcija završila, prišao mi je Hakim. Pretpostavljao je da ne znam za 3D animaciju i zbog toga je želeo da se nađemo baš ovde. Pošto sam imala samo sat vremena do polaska kući, želeo je da mi pokaže jedan manje popularan, ali jednako lep božićni market.. Pristala sam, i krenuli smo nazad ka Budimpeštanskom oku.
Hakim je rođen u Azerbejdžanu i u Bakuu je završio studije prava. U Budimpeštu je došao na doktorske studije i tu će živeti još sigurno naredne dve godine. Rekao mi je da je mađarski vepoma težak, ali da se trudi da nauči što više, kako bi u društvu bio malo bolje prihvaćen. Raspitivao se o trenutnoj političkoj situaciji u Srbiji i zanimalo ga je mišljenje Srba o Turcima, kako su petsto godina bili pod njihovom vlašću. Bilo mu je, naravno, neobično, da ja, kao devojka, putujem sama. Loše je pretpostavljao je da to znači da nemam momka. Kada sam rekla da imam, i da smo u dugogodišnjoj vezi, nije nikako mogao da shvati da me momak pušta da idem negde sama 😀 Sve u svemu, razgovor sa Hakimom mi je prijao. Obećao je da će jednom doći u Novi Sad, pa da želi tom prilikom upozna i Marka, mog slobodumnog momka. 🙂
Božićni market koji mi je Hakim pokazao bio je zaista lep. Dosta manji od ostalih, ali jednako svečan i veseo. Ovde je akcenat bio na ručno rađenom nakitu, koji su trgovci pravili po vašoj želji na licu mesta. Cene su, za moj pojam, bile previsoke, ali je sigurno poseban ugođaj poneti kući personalizovani suvenir iz mađarske prestonice. Nisam imala dovoljno forinti da se time počastim, ali možda hoću narednog puta.
Ono što sam ponela iz Budimpešte tog dana nije imalo cenu. Uspomene na deljenje trpeze sa ljudima različitih nacija, ukus svežeg langoša, pogled na Budimpeštu noću, veseo božićni duh, ljubaznost i smeh koji će mi sigurno produžiti život, i jedno novo internacionalno prijateljstvo. Više nisam tražila.
Autobus turističke agencije Putokaz 021 čekao me je u 20h. Napustili smo Budimpeštu puni novih utisaka, i sa željom da joj se uskoro ponovo vratimo. Možda kad obuče zelenu prolećnu haljinu?
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