Malo je gradova kojima se često vraćam. Veliki je svet, a premalo vremena da se sve vidi, dotakne i oseti. Ali, neki gradovi mi se jednostavno uvuku pod kožu. Sa njima se susrećem barem jednom godišnje, kao sa starim prijateljem. Jedan od njih je i Banja Luka.
Moje prve posete zelenom gradu na Vrbasu počele su u studentskim danima, kada sam redovno dolazila sestri u goste. Zavolela sam Banjaluku i upoznala njene delove – Borik, Paprikovac, Starčevicu. Dočekala sam u njoj prve snežne pahulje, prve mirise proleća i rosna jutra. Svaka poseta Banjaluci donela je nove fotografije u mom putničkom albumu.

Ove godine sam imala čast da ponovo prošetam Banjalukom. Kao gost 2. Međunarodne konferencije turizma upoznala sam Banjaluku u pratnji vodiča Mladena. Sunce nas je pratilo u korak, te smo doživeli grad u njegovom najlepšem izdanju.
Napokon sam saznala zašto grad ima ovaj zanimljivi naziv! Banja Luka znači banova ravnica uz reku, jer se grad prvenstveno prostirao samo duž reke Vrbas. Pod ovim imenom je prvi put spomenut 1494. godine u dokumentu hrvatsko – ugarskog kralja Vladislava II. Od 1929. godine Banjaluka postaje centar Vrbaske banovine. Prvi njen ban je bio Svetislav Milosavljević, koji za vreme svoje vladavine gradi neke od glavnih znamenitosti grada – Bansku upravu, Banski dvor, Etnografski muzej, Narodno pozorište…
Najfotografisaniji motiv Banjaluke je sigurno Hram Hrista Spasitelja, nekada Crkva svete Trojice, građena od 1525-1529. godine. Srušena je 1941. godine. za vreme nemačke okupacije. 1993. godine se na istom mestu gradi ogromna crkva, po istom projektu. Baš u trenutku kada smo stajali ispred hrama, oglasila su se zvona u b- duru. Uživali smo u tom svečanom trenutku, a zatim nastavili dalje, ka Gospodskoj ulici – glavnoj pešačkoj zoni.

Gospodska ulica se ustvari zove Ulica Veselina Masleše, po narodnom heroju koji je u toj ulici rođen. Zgrade koje su u vreme Austro- Ugarske služile za stanovanje, danas su pretvorene u poslovne prostore, te se ovde može naći veliki broj kafića, restorana, butika i prodavnica. Glavnim gradskim korzoom se u večernjim satima šetaju ponajviše parovi, ruku pod ruku, od Hrama Hrista Spasitelja do poznate robne kuće Boska, koja se nalazi na Trgu Krajine.


Na Trgu Krajine stoji i Krivi sat – glavno mesto sastanka Banjalučana. Ovaj sat svedoči o snažnom zemljotresu koji je pogodio grad 1969. godine i sravnio ga sa zemljom. Kažu da je sat prilikom zemljotresa zauvek stao, i dan- danas pokazuje vreme kada je Banjaluka uništena. Nakon zemljotresa, u Banjaluku stiže pomoć iz bratskih zemalja i ona se ponovo gradi, pa je iz tog razloga nazivaju i gradom – feniksom.

Jedno od zanimljivih mesta u gradu jeste i Gradska tržnica – glavna gradska pijaca. Već u 16. veku su na ovom mestu seljaci prodavali svoje domaće proizvode, tako da ona ima dugu tradiciju. Prilikom naše posete smo prošetali Tržnicom i pozdravili vredne prodavce, koji su nam s osmehom ponudili svoje delikatese. Mešali su se mirisi svežeg povrća i voća, Još jednom smo osetili proleće u Banjaluci kada smo prošli pored cvetne pijace.
Najstarija znamenitost Banja Luke jeste tvrđava Kastel – koja se nalazi u samom centru, na levoj obali smaragdnog Vrbasa. Nastala je u doba Rimljana, koji su ovde osnovali kastru, tj. utvrdu. Današnji izgled tvrđave potiče iz prve polovine 18. veka. Na mestu gde je bila rimska kastra, za vreme vladavine Ferhad – paše Sokolovića, gradi se nova fortifikacija. Ona je trenutno u fazi restauracije i planira se da se potpuno renovira u narednom periodu. Na tvrđavi Kastel održava se i nekoliko letnjih festivala. Lično sam 2018. godine posetila Demofest i osetila festivalsku euforiju na Kastelu.


Ukoliko želite da popijete kafu ili ručate na tvrđavi, s pogledom na Vrbas, smestite se u restoran Kazamat, uređen u viteškom stilu. Kažu da su letnje večeri u bašti Kazamata najlepše. Ja mogu reći da je domaća kafa odlična i da je osoblje veoma prijatno, a domaćinskoj atmosferi posebno doprinosi mačak koji će vas srdačno pozdraviti na ulazu. 😉

Tačno preko puta Kastela nalazi se najveća džamija u gradu – Ferhadija. Ime nosi po Ferhad -paši Sokoloviću, istaknutom vojskovođi koji je imao dosta uspeha u ratovima protiv austro- ugarske vojske. Ferhadija je građena 1579. godine, od strane Sinana, koga smatraju turskim Mikelanđelom, ili nekog od njegovih učenika. Do 1992. godine Banja Luka je imala 16 džamija, međutim, sve bivaju porušene do temelja, pa i ova, najznačajnija. Ponovo je svečano otvorena 2016. godine, a posebno je zanimljivo što je u novu džamiju ugrađeno 70 posto materijala od prvobitne, tako što se svaki kamen pronađen na deponijama oko Banjaluke ugrađivao na svoje staro mesto. U dvorištu džamije nalazi se i turbe ( grob) Ferhad – paše Sokolovića.



Na putu ka Ferhadiji zastali smo kod Safikadinog groba. Ovo mesto čuva tragičnu ljubavnu legendu o devojci Safikadi, koja se zaljubila u austrougarskog vojnika. Pošto je njihova ljubav bila zabranjena, Safikadin otac, koji je bio komandant tvrđave, poslao je vojnika u borbu, kako bi ih rastavio. Kada je Safikada čula da je njen voljeni nastradao, obukla je venčanicu i bacila se pod top koji je označavao podne. Njene poslednje reči bile su “Vjerna sam ti do groba!”. Na mestu gde je nađeno njeno telo danas se nalazi spomenik, i tu se pale sveće za večnu ljubav.

Sve znamenitosti koje sam do sada spomenula skoncentrisane su u centru grada i mogu se posetiti pri laganoj šetnji. Kako sam pri ovoj poseti gradu želela da naučim nešto više, odlučila sam da posetim i Samostan Marija Zvijezda, poznat po proizvodnji polutvrdog trapista. Sa svoje četiri koleginice otišla sam do njega autobusom br. 1. Susretljivi Banjalučani su nam pomogli da se snađemo i stignemo do skromno uređenog samostana. Međutim, naša želja da probamo trapist uz čašu vina se nije ispunila, jer nismo pronašli nikog ko bi nam otvorio kapiju.


Ipak, naš dolazak na drugi kraj Banjaluke nije bio uzaludan. Ovde smo otkrili jednu od najboljih pivnica – pivnicu Zlatna krigla, poznatu po najboljim kolenicama u gradu. Udobno smo se smestile i probale te poznate kolenice, ćevape, uštipke i Nektar pivo. Bilo je to jedno od mojih najlepših večeri u Banjaluci do sada – veče druženja, smeha i pozitivnih vibracija.

Pored kolenica, ovde se jednostavno mora probati i banjalučki ćevap. Od svih koje sam do sada probala najbolje bih ocenila ćevape u Zlatnoj kruni, dok bi desetka za ambijent otišla Banjalučkom splavu. Gde su vama ćevapi bili najbolji? I šta je ono što vam se najviše sviđa u gradu na Vrbasu?


U okviru Međunarodne konferencije turizma 2019 imala sam priliku da posetim i Krupu na Vrbasu i etno selo – muzej Ljubačke doline. Utiske sa konferencije i sa izleta donosim u narednim tekstovima.
Ako želite da saznate više o Banjaluci, posetite sajt Turističke organizacije Banja Luka. Ako imate bilo kakva pitanja, stojim vam na raspolaganju.
A ako vam se svideo ovaj, možda vam se dopadne i tekst o izletu u etno selo Stanišići.
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