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Letonija Putnica

Zima u Rigi

Čini mi se da je Riga, glavni grad Letonije, jedna od najpotcenjenijih prestonica Evrope. Sama nikad nisam verovala da ću je posetiti – ne zato što nisam želela, već zato što kod nas nisam često nailazila na ponude koje omogućavaju posetu ovom divnom gradu, biseru Baltika.
Ali, nekad, kada se najmanje nadate,ukaže se izvanredna prilika, koju nikako ne smete da propustite. Tako sam ja Novu 2017. sačekala u Letoniji…
Nakon posete gradu Katowice ( Poljska) i Varšavi, stigli smo u Rigu. Dočekao nas je hladni decembarski dan, mećava…U tom trenutku sam pomislila da će vreme tokom našeg boravka ostati takvo, da će mi, uprkos mojim nepromočivim čizmama, vunenoj kapi , šalu i rukavicama, biti užasno hladno, i da ću sve vreme ovde provesti u nekom kafiću pijući topli čaj i gledajući u snežne riške ulice.
Međutim, posle nekoliko sati mećava je prestala, i temperatura se podigla iznad nule. Tako da je avantura počela – i nastavila se u naredna tri dana!
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Sve je vrvelo od prazničkog duha. Božićni market na glavnom trgu kod Riške katedrale bio je prepun , ljudi iz svih delova sveta našli su se na jednom mestu i nije im važno odakle su, koliko imaju godina, koja im je boja kože, religija ili seksualna orijentacija…Pozitivno me je iznenadila ta atmosfera – toliko pozitivne energije na jednom mestu, ljudi koji pevaju i plešu uz božićne pesme, pritom piju balzam ( alkoholno piće karakteristično za Rigu, koje se sipa u čaj ili kafu), kuvano vino ( karstvin) ili čaj – koji je ubedljivo omiljeni napitak Letonaca. Toj atmosferi ne možete odoleti – morate im se pridružiti!

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Tu smo upoznale i tri devojke iz Portorika, koje su došle u Rigu da se “smrznu”. One su meni i Olji savetovale koji prilog da uzmemo uz ukusne kobasice koje su se prodavale na božićnom marketu.
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Nakon najvećeg trga, kod katedrale, do koga vodi sedam ulica iz različitih pravaca, posetile smo i božićne markete na trgovima Albert i Livu. Oni jesu manji, ali ih to ne čini manje važnim. Naprotiv, na njima se kriju neke od najlepših riških fasada!
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Na trgu Livu videle smo zanimljivu građevinu na čijim se tornjevima nalazi skulptura crne mačke sa podignutim repom – Mačju kuću. Za nju se veže nekoliko različitih legendi. Meni je najzanimljivija bila ona u kojoj je jedan trgovac odbijen da bude član Velikog ceha ( zgrada koja se takođe nalazi na Livu trgu), pa je odlučio da postavi figuru mačke na krov svoje kuće, ali tako da je stražnjica mačke okrenuta ka njihovoj zgradi. Postoji i legenda da su nekada davno Rigu preplavili miševi, i da je neki bogati čovek doveo dve mačke koje su tada pojele miševe i spasile grad. Bilo kako bilo, ova građevina je svakako simbol grada. Zbog toga ćete crnu mačku videti na skoro svim suvenirima u Rigi.
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Trg koji je svakako jedan od najlepših jeste Starogradski trg, na kome se nalazi Kuća crnoglavih, koja je sagrađena u 14. veku za potrebe gradskih trgovaca. Kažu da se tu nekada nalazila najveća kolekcija srebrnih predmeta na svetu. Ispred nje se nalazi statua Rolanda ( ovo je kopija originalne statue, koja je uništena u Drugom svetskom ratu). Pored je Gradska većnica, koja je zatvorena za turiste, i nekoliko suvenirnica. Posebno zanimljivo za ovaj trg je to da je na njemu okićena prva jelka u Evropi.
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Nadomak Kuće crnoglavih je Crkva svetog Petra iz 1209, godine, jedna od najstarijih građevina grada. Možete se popeti na toranj crkve kako biste videli panoramu grada – ulaz košta 9 evra.
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Nakon toga smo, šetajući obalom Daugave, naišle na Riški dvorac. Ovaj dvorac je prvobitno izgrađen 1330. godine, ali je više puta nadograđivan i restauriran.
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Pored Daugave, reke koje se uliva u Baltičko more, kroz Rigu prolazi i kanal Pilsetas. Šetajući duž kanala, koji razdvaja stari i noviji deo grada, videle smo Narodno pozorište, a zatim veliki gradski park, koji je u ovo doba godine dekorisan u novogodišnjem duhu, i posebno je interesantan za decu.
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Kanal nas je dalje odveo ka delu grada u kom se nalaze ambasade. Kada od njih skrenete levo, stići ćete do ulice Alberta Iela – jedne od najlepših ulica u stilu secesije ( Art Nouveau). Predlažem da ovde odete tokom dana, kako biste imali vremena da detaljno pogledate svaku zgradu, ali i da posetite interaktivni Art Nouveau muzej na broju 12. Ulaznica za muzej košta 4 evra za studente. U njemu možete isprobati odeću i fotografisati se u njoj, naučiti mnogo toga o secesiji, a nama je najzanimljiviji deo bio pravljenje svoje građevine u ovom stilu. Fotografiju vaše građevine možete naravno poneti kući, kao jedan od suvenira iz Rige.
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U povratku iz Art Nouveau četvrti, slučajno smo naletele na veliki park u kome smo videle Letonski nacionalni muzej. Sve informacije o muzeju možete videti ovde http://www.lnmm.lv/en . Ono što se nama veoma svidelo je što se na zadnjoj strani muzeja, iznad jednog od izložbenih prostora, nalazi neprobojno staklo, na kome možete sedeti, šetati i posmatrati posetioce.

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Naš poslednji dan u Rigi odlučile smo da provedemo na plaži. Iako je bilo hladno i vetrovito, želele smo da izađemo na Baltik i prošetamo poznatim letovalištem Jurmala. Posetile smo i gradić Majori, do koga smo stigle vozom. Posle šetnje i čaja u jednom od malih kafića u centru Majorija, stigle smo na plažu.
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Najpoznatija znamenitost Jurmale je bronzana statua kornjače koja simbolizuje dugovečnost.
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Posetom Jurmali završio se naš boravak u Rigi, te nas je put dalje odveo ka glavnom gradu Litvanije – Vilnjusu. Shvatila sam; Najlepše je spontano šetati uskim, krivudavim ulicama Rige…Gde god da se nađete, naići ćete na nešto što će vam zapasti za oko. Svaka kuća je lepa! Svaki pasaž je tajnovit. Svaki park je uređen, i dekorisan u novogodišnjem duhu…Svaki most preko kanala pruža priliku da uđete u neki sasvim novi svet, u istom gradu, ali potpuno različit od onog prethodnog. A kad pređete most preko Daugave – imaćete najlepši pogled na grad, koji će vam se sigurno urezati u pamćenje i biti jedan od glavnih razloga da dođete ponovo.
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