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Makedonija Putnica

Vevčani – tradicionalno makedonsko selo koje žubori

Pri planiranju putovanja u Severnu Makedoniju naišla sam na podatak da se u blizini Struge nalazi jedno živopisno selo, poznato po Vevčanskim izvorima. Drago mi je da sam taj podatak zapisala u svoj rokovnik, jer je selo Vevčani bilo najprijatnije iznenađenje na ovom našem putešestviju po zemlji gde večno sunce sja.

Do Vevčana smo putovali preko Struge, gde smo se zadržali nekoliko sati. U Strugi smo više od pola sata čekali autobus do sela, a naišao je taman u trenutku kada smo želeli da odustanemo i da se vratimo u Ohrid. Tog dana je vetar bio baš jak, najavljivali su i kišu…Nadu da će autobus doći dali su nam ljudi na stanici koji su strpljivo čekali čak i duže od nas.

Crni Drim, Struga

Kada smo u daljini videli beli autobus sa natpisom Vevčani, oduševljeno smo skočili sa klupe i pripremili denare za kartu. Povratna karta Struga – Vevčani košta 100 DEN i kupuje se direktno kod vozača. Autobusi voze na svakih sat vremena, a vožnja traje 20ak minuta. Poslednji autobus za Strugu ide u 20h – saznali smo od jedne kovrdžave devojke iz autobusa.

Kako smo se približavali selu, tako je u meni uzbuđenje raslo. U prvom delu vožnje mogla sam kroz prozor posmatrati Ohridsko jezero, a zatim vile i hotele u izgradnji. Zaista ih je mnogo, i sigurna sam da će Struga i cela ova oblast tek turistički zaživeti za nekoliko godina.

Na samom ulazu u selo stoji veliki ćirilićni natpis Vevčani.. Selo je jedino naseljeno mesto istoimene opštine. Veruje se da je nastalo između 6. i 8. veka, kada su se ovde naselili Berziti koji su primili hrišćanstvo.

Izvor: https://journeymacedonia.com/

Vevčani su autentični pre svega zbog arhitekture. Uživali smo u šetnji uskim kaldrmisanim ulicama, prolazeći kraj starinskih makedonskih kuća. Usput smo pozdravljali vredne meštane ovog mirnog mesta, koji nisu navikli na veliki broj turista.

Jedan od najlepših prizora
Žubori na sve strane

Turisti u Vevčane najčešće dolaze 13. i 14. januara, kada se ovde održava Vevčanski karneval povodom proslave Svetog Vasilija. Tada selom paradira karnevalska povorka sačinjena od meštana koji maskama, gestikulacijom i uzvicima oponašaju demone i đavole. Na pozornici , koja se nalazi u samoj blizini autobuske stanice, se tada izvode živopisne predstave, uz muziku tradicionalnog instrumenta zurle.

Amfiteatar Vevčani

Već pri izlasku iz autobusa čuli smo žubor Vevčanskog potoka. Mešao se sa blagim vetrom, koji nam je sada mnogo više prijao nego onaj u Strugi. Pratili smo žubor vode, a nakon par minuta smo ugledali i jedan romantični kutak krivudavog sliva, kraj koga je na klupi sedeo zaljubljeni par. Ulični fenjeri još nisu obasjavali potok. Nadala sam se da ćemo ovde ostati do noći, kako bismo uživali i u tom prizoru.

Šetalište kraj potoka

Vevčanski izvori su, kažu, najlepša prorodna znamenitost ovog mesta i cele Makedonije. Ima ih deset i raštrkani su po planini Jablanici koja se uzdiže nad selom. Deset potoka krči svoj put kroz šume i pećine, sudarajući se i ponovo razilazeći, sve do sela Vevčani. Vijugaju kraj kuća, kroz dvorišta, sporednim i glavnim ulicama, provlače se kroz najsitnije pukotine, čineći da celo selo žubori.

Planina Jablanica se uzdiže nad selom
Na prvi pogled se čini da potok ide kroz garažu 😉

Meštani Vevčana koji imaju posede kraj potoka sagradili su drvene mostiće kako bi sebi olakšali prilaz kućama. Mostovi su jaki i sigurni, i mi smo iskoristili svaki od njih da se popnemo i pod nogama osetimo snagu potoka. Sunce se i dalje supešno borilo sa tmurnim oblacima i obasjavalo krupno kamenje kanjona. Tu, na bajkovitim mostićima nastale su i neke najlepše fotografije sa ovog našeg izleta. Zastajali smo na svakih par minuta, da se okrenemo, da dodirnemo ledenu vodu, da se divimo njenoj bistrini.

Vevčani
Vevčani
Vevčani

Na našem poludnevnom izletu uspeli smo posetiti izvor Jankov kamen, koji se nalazi na 1200 m nadmorske visine. Do njega se lagano stiže peške iz centra sela – dovoljno je samo da pratite potok. Pritom ćete uživati u nekim od najlepših prizora koje samo priroda može da stvori. Doživećete nesalomivu prodornost vode koja krši sve pred sobom, idući ka svom cilju.

Netaknuta priroda Vevčana

Izvor Jankov kamen dosegli smo nakon pola sata lagane šetnje. Gore nas je dočekao jedan štand sa suvenirima i improvizovana blagajna – na kojoj niko nije radio. Ulaznica za posetu izvoru košta 20 DEN, ali nismo imali kome da ostavimo novac.

Međutim, kupili smo dva magneta kao uspomenu na naš dolazak ovde i usput popričali sa vlasnikom suvenirnice. Rekao nam je da će Vevčani tek postati turistička destinacija, i da će ceo projekat uređenja finansirati Evropska unija. Izvori su 1999. godine proglašeni spomenikom prirode i od tada je počelo uređenje celog područja.

Kružnom drvenom stazom prošetali smo do izvora Jankov kamen i odmorili se na jednoj od klupa. Tu, okruženi mirisnom šumom, gledajući u bistre potoke koji se prepliću, sudaraju i sjedinjuju, odmorili smo i dušu i telo. Shvatili smo koliko nam priroda znači, koliko leči, koliko opija.

Na izvoru Jankov kamen
Na izvoru Jankov kamen
Na izvoru Jankov kamen

Nakon šetnje i uživanja u netaknutoj prirodi odlućili smo da se vratimo u centar sela i posetimo restoran Via Ignatia. Za ovaj restoran smo se odlučili jer smo od prijatelja čuli da spremaju izvrsnu hranu, u šta smo se posle i sami uverili. Ono što je zanimljivo ovde je da postoji jedan deo restorana u crnogorskom stilu. Baš tu smo se smestili, jer se u glavnom delu održavala neka proslava. Ne znamo da li je vlasnik Crnogorac ili samo ljubitelj Crne Gore 🙂

Domaće kobasice u restoranu Via Ignatia
Rolovana piletina
Marko u autentičnom crnogorskom ambijentu 😉
Bašta restorana

Pri izlasku iz restorana dočekala nas je suton. Krenuli smo ka autobuskoj stanici, prateći sada već fenjerima obasjan potok. Žuborilo je i dalje, umilno i nežno, a meštani su polako gasili vanjska svetla. Smestili smo se u autobus i puni utisaka krenuli put Struge.

U ruci sam držala magnete sa fotografijama Vevčana. A u srcu sam napravila kutak za još jedno divno mesto.

Da li ste posetili Vevčane? Da li vas je možda ovaj tekst inspirisao da pri sledećoj poseti Makedoniji svratite i do ovog sela?

Ako vam se svideo ovaj tekst, možete pročitati i tekst o opštim informacijama o Ohridu ili tekst o Strugi.

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