Da li ste znali da se Svetsko prvenstvo u viteškim borbama Bitka nacija održava već deset godina? I da je ove godine Smederevska tvrđava bila domaćin istog? Nisam ni ja, dok naša grupa, predvođena Srđanom – vodičem turističke agencije Putokaz 021, nije stigla pred bedeme srednjovekovnog ravničarskog utvrđenja.
Iz Novog Sada ispratila nas je dosadna kiša. Ja sam na ovaj izlet krenula sama, i smestila sam se pored Aške – još jedne solo putnice. Putovanje nam je prošlo u čavrljanju o svemu i svačemu – odmah smo se sprijateljile, i pritom shvatile da imamo isti ukus za obuću. Za ovaj izlet smo obe obule nove cipele za suvo vreme – baš optimistično 🙂
Ali, izgleda da je naš optimizam pobedio, jer smo, pri izlasku iz autobusu, svatili da je kiša stala. Spretno smo izbegavale barice na putu ka ulazu u tvrđavu iz 15. veka.
Ušavši u njeno dvorište, zapljusnuo nas je talas šarenih odora, potpuni kontrast tmurnom danu koji je bio pred nama. Odzvanjali su udarci mačevima – vitezovi su vežbali za borbu. Bilo je tu oko njih i dama, obučenih u najfinije dvorske haljine, koje su ushićeno čekale da otpočne bitka.
Bitka nacija je međunarodno takmičenje u viteškim borbama, koje je ove godine održano unutar Smederevske tvrđave od 2. do 7. maja. Okupljeno je oko 300 učesnika iz 40 država sveta. Novo u odnosu na prethodne godine takmičenja bio je okršaj 150 na 150, za koji kažu da je bio pravi spektakl.
Posmatrala sam oklope, odore i oružje koje vitezovi nose. Iznenadila sam se kada sam saznala da sva oprema odgovara pravoj srednjovekovnoj. Materijali od kojih se izrađuju odore i oklopi, njihova težina, te izgled oružja – sve je autentično. Jedino je oružje zatupljeno, kako bi se smanjile povrede. Jedva sam čekala da vidim uživo neku od borbi.
Za to vreme prošetala sam zidinama trougaone tvrđave, koju je podigao despot Đurađ Branković Za jedanaest godina, od 1428. do 1439. godine, na ušću reke Jezave u Dunav, izgrađeni su Mali i Veliki grad. Osim rezidencije despota i zgrade za porodicu, tu se nalaze i bilblioteka, kovnica novca, odaje za sluge i čuvare, te prostorije u kojima je živelo lokalno stanovništvo.
Odličan tekst o istoriji Smedereva i Smederevske tvrđave napisala je Kristina sa bloga According to Kristina – možete ga naći ovde.
Borbe su ubrzo počele. Prvo 1 na 1. Sevali su mačevi, topuzi i buzdovani. Vitezovi su se udarali svom snagom, kao na pravom bojnom polju. Elegantne dame su ih bodrile uzvicima Bravo, bravo. Verujem da je svaka od njih s ponosom posmatrala borbu svog izabranika.
Od siline udaraca bilo je i povreda. Blagih, doduše, ali meni je i to bilo strašno. Borbe su se nastavljale dok su vitezovi bili na nogama. Kada jedan padne – borba je gotova. Poraženi vitez je po zavšetku borbe odlazio do svoje dame, koja ga je grlila i tešila. Zaista romantično 🙂
Posmatrala sam i nekoliko borbi žena. Moram priznati da su mi izgledale ratobornije od muškaraca. Već mimikom su pokazivale svoje odlučnost da pobede i njihove borbe su zaista bile uzbudljive. Pored elegantnih haljina i savršenih frizura, na njima su bili i oklopi teški i do 25 kg!
U viteškom kampu – gde su se učesnici smestili pod šatore, vladala je odlična atmosfera. Vitezovi i dame su se družili, upoznavali, svirali i pevali zajedno. Bilo je i onih koji su odmarali u samoći, pripremajući se psihički na borbe koje slede.
A neki su se opuštali gledajući u Dunav – kao jedan od vitezova kog sam srela na bedemima tvrđave.
Za kraj sam sa gospođom Gordanom, koju sam upoznala tog dana, prošetala po štandovima na kojima se prodaje srednjovekovna oprema – odore, prsluci, oružje i razni viteški suveniri.
Drago mi je da sam baš tog dana posetila Smederevsku tvrđavu. Zaista sam uživala u posmatranju viteških borbi. Ti raznobojni kostimi i vitezovi iz različitih zemalja obojili su mi dan. Još uvek se ne zna gde će se održati naredna bitka Borbe nacija 2021. Ali, ko zna, možda se i tamo slučajno nađem?
Hvala turističkoj agenciji Putokaz 021 koja je sponzorisala ovaj izlet. Istog dana posetili smo i Golubačku tvrđavu – tekst o najlepšoj tvrđavi na Dunavu možete pročitati ovde.
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