Ohrid – biser Balkana. Moj omiljeni gradić na jezeru. Kulturan, šaren i gostoprimljiv. Grad u kome se osećate kao kod kuće i koji vam posle prve posete uvek nedostaje. Pitate se, šta raditi u Ohridu? Koje su to aktivnosti, koje će vam obogatiti duh, nahraniti radoznalost i obradovati nepce?
1. Obići ohridske crkve
Ohrid je nekada imao 365 crkava – za svaki dan po jednu. Danas ih je u gradu pedesetak. Svojom lepotom i značajem ističu se Crkva Svete Sofije, Crkva Bogorodice Perivlepte, Crkva Sveti Kliment i Pantelejmona i Sveti Jovan Kaneo.
Crkva Svete Sofije podignuta je u 11. veku. Ističe se svojom prostranošću, uređenim dvorištem i amfiteatrom sa zadnje strane. Sledeće godine će se ovde održati jubilarno 60. Ohridsko leto – najveća letnja kulturna manifestacija u Makedoniji. Više o njoj pročajte ovde.
Crkva Bogorodice Perivlepte potiče s kraja 13. veka. Mnogi je nazivaju i manastirom Svetog Klimenta jer se ovde čuvaju njegove relikvije. Ova crkva se nalazi na uzvišenju, odakle se pruža divan pogled na jezero i stari ohridski grad.
Crkva Sveti Kliment i Pantelejmon nalazi se na brdu Plaošnik. Podignuta je kao replika stare crkve koju je na tom mestu izgradio Kliment Ohridski 863. godine. Arheološka istraživanja na ovom mestu još uvek traju, a poslednje veće otkriće dogodilo se 2007. godine, kada je ovde pronađen trezor sa venecijanskim kovanicama.
Sveti Jovan Kaneo je crkva sa razglednica. Manja je, ali neizmerno lepa, a zanimljiva je i njena pozicija, jer leži na hridi iznad Ohridskog jezera. Po mom mišljenju ovo je najlepši primer vizantijske umetnosti u Ohridu.
2. Posetiti radionicu izrade papira
Nacionalna radionica ručne izrade papira sv. Kliment Ohridski nalazi se u starom gradu i iz nje sam ponela kući najlepšu uspomenu. Vlasnik radionice Ljupčo Panevski nam je srdačno objasnio i demonstrirao postupak izrade papira po starom kineskom načinu iz 2. veka pre naše ere.
Nakon što se tanke vlasi kestena, trešnje, smreke stave u veliku drvenu posudu s vodom , a zatim kroz vodu provuče mrežica, na njoj ostanu ljuspice drveta, od kojih nastane papir. Nakon što se iscedi i osuši, papir se u radionici koristi za pravljenje koverti, kesa ili za štampanje.
U ovoj radionici se nalazi i replika Gutenbergove prese, pomoću koje Ljupčo pravi autentične suvenire, štampajući motive Ohrida i Severne Makedonije. Kupite jedan ovakav suvenir, podržite rad radionice i ostaće vam uspomena za ceo život.
3. Popeti se na Samuilovu tvrđavu
Ohridsko Kale je utvrđenje iznad starog dela grada i veruje se da potiče iz 11. veka, kada je tu bio glavni grad Samuilove države – Lihnidos. . Tvrđava je opasana bedemima različite visine, a do njih vas vode metalne konstrukcije u vidu stepenica.
Sa bedema se pruža odličan pogled na gradić, jezero i okolinu. Ja se nisam popela na one najviše jer mi nije izgledalo najbezbednije. Ali, Marko je obišao sve i napravio odlične fotografije odozgo.
4. Sedeti u antičkom teatru
Antički teatar se takođe nalazi u samom starom gradu, ispod Samuilove tvrđave. Izgrađeno je oko 200. godine pre nove ere. Njegov položaj je savršen, jer je ugnježdeno između dva brda koja ga štite od vetrova i na taj način ne remete akustiku.
Jedno vreme teatar je služio kao arena za borbe gladijatora. Veruje se da je napušten nakon što su ove borbe zabranjene.
Pozorište je otkriveno 1935. godine, ali tek oko 2000. godine su završena arheološka iskopavanja. Zanimljivo je da su redovi i mesta obeležena, kao i da se na nekim mestima nalaze urezana imena posetioca, koji su verovatno imali neku godišnju pretplatu.
5. Prošetati duž jezera u predvečerje
Evo malo i romantike 🙂 Promenada duž jezera je duga i uređena. Pri šetnji možete i skrenuti na dok i napraviti najlepše fotografije crkve Jovan Kaneo i starog grada. Nemojte zaboraviti da nahranite labudove.
Zatim ćete proći pored nekoliko restorana gde se služi poznata ohridska pastrmka, a mnogi od njih uveče imaju i muziku uživo.U drugom delu ćete videti i nekoliko kafića na samoj obali, ali i staze za trčanje i biciklizam. Sigurna sam da ćete ovu šetnju zapamtiti i po jakom vetru koji ovde struže u svako doba godine, pa bi bilo dobro da ogrnete maramu.
Pri šetnji kraj jezera osećala sam se kao na moru. Tako izgleda, a tako i miriše.
6. Kupiti ohriske bisere
Dve ohridske porodice – Talev i Filev – čuvaju tajnu o načinu izrade ohridskih bisera. Biseri se prave od krljušti ribe plaštice, koja živi samo u ovom jezeru. Tajna se prenosi s kolena na koleno, po muškoj liniji.
Talevi i Filevi zadržali su ručnu proizvodnju ovih bisera, čija je najniža cena 5 evra. Kažu da je rok trajanja običnog bisera 150 godina, ali da ohridski traje večno.
Videćemo koliko će moj da traje 🙂
Na ovom linku možete pročitati priču o najstarijem ohridskom biserdžiji.
7. Posetiti manastir Sveti Naum i izvor Crnog Drima
Manastir Sveti Naum osnovao je Sveti Naum 895. godine. On je ovde proveo i poslednje godine svog života, a tu je i sahranjen.
Od centra Ohrida manastir je udaljen 29 km i do njega možete lako stići lokalnim prevozom, za nešto manje od 2 evra za povratnu kartu. Naravno, postoji i taksi opcija, ali na putovanjima uvek volim da podržim lokalni prevoz, a samim tim i upoznam lokalno stanovništvo.
Pored najznačajnijeg i najposećenijeg manastira, ovde se nalaze još tri manja manastira koja možete posetiti. Usput ćete videti i izvor Crnog Drima, uživati u veličanstvenoj prirodi koja okružuje celo ovo područje.
Ako ne želite da pešačite, možete se provozati brodićem. Čamdžije ćete videti na obali kod restorana Ostrvo, a jedna vožnja košta 10 evra.
8. Posetiti Zaliv kostiju – muzej na vodi
Do Zaliva kostiju smo iz Ohrida takođe stigli lokalnim prevozom, i pritom potrošili 1 evro 🙂
Ovaj muzej na vodi je replika praistorijskog naselja u vidu kuća od trske i blata. Veruje se da je ono ovako izgledalo između 1200. i 600. godine pre nove ere. Kuće za stanovanje su pravougaonog, a one u kojima su izvođeni rituali kružnog oblika. Svi predmeti od drveta i gline, kao i drveni stubovi koji su nosili praistorijske sojenice deo su muzejske postavke.
Pored muzeja, ovde se nalazi i utvrđenje, s kog se pruža pogled na plaventilo jezera i snežne vrhove planine Galičice.
Zaliv kostiju možete iskombinovati sa posetom manastiru Sveti Naum, ili sa posetom plaži Gradište. Plaža je duga i uređena i veoma čista. U šetnji do nje ćete naići i na skromnu crkvu u steni, oslikanu freskama iz 15. veka.
9. Probati trileće i baklavu
Od povratka iz Ohrida čeznem za trilećem i baklavom. Ovi tipični balkanski specijaliteti nikad nisu bili moji omiljeni, ali od ove posete Makedoniji su to postali.
Da biste probali najukusniji trileće kolač, posetite poslastičarnicu Jagoda. Obećavam vam da ćete poželeti još! A za ljubitelje baklave preporučujem Antep. Baklavice možete i poneti, pa me se setite kada se budete vraćali sa Ohrida 🙂
U ovu listu nisam uvrstila posetu Strugi i Vevčanima, jer sam o ovim mestima pisala u posebnim tekstovima. Možete ih pročitati ovde:
Struga – vetar i poezija na Ohridskom jezeru
Vevčani – tradicionalno makedonsko selo koje žubori
Koje su vaše omiljene aktivnosti na Ohridu? Podelite ih sa mnom u komentarima!
Za informacije o smeštaju i prevozu do Ohrida, pročitajte ovaj tekst
127 replies on “Šta raditi u Ohridu – mojih devet najdražih aktivnosti”
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