Sibinj (rum. Sibiu), grad sa oko 150 000 stanovnika, poneo je 2007. godine titulu Evropske prestonice kulture. Ovaj, meni do skoro nepoznati grad, nalazi se u središtu Rumunije, i bio je usputna stanica na mom putovanju do rumunskog sela Bekokten. Tokom boravka u selu upoznala sam mnogo ljudi čiji je Sibinj rodni grad, pa sam odlučila da ga u povratku posetim.
Jedna od učesnica na kampu bila je i Franzi, Nemica koja trenutno živi u Sibinju i radi na Univerzitetu kao lektor za nemački jezik. Kada je saznala da želim da posetim njen grad, darežljivo mi je dala ključeve svog stana. Oduševljena ovim njenim potezom, prihvatila sam! Tako sam se, početkom jula, našla u ovom srednjovekovnom gradu, gradu kulture i diverziteta.
Moj smeštaj nalazio se u samom srcu grada, što je još više doprinelo mom uživanju ovde. Dočekao me je pravi letnji dan i lagani vetrić sa Fagaraških planina. Čim sam stigla, požurila sam da se smestim u svoj kutak. Posebno sam se obradovala sladoledžinici pod prozorom 
Na prvi pogled kupile su me raznobojne sibinjske fasade. Naredna tri dana stanovala sam nadomak Velikog trga – Plata Mare – glavnog trga u gradu, oivičenim važnim srednjovekovnim građevinama – Brukental palatom, Gradskom kućom i rimokatoličkom katedralom. Pored njih, na trgu se mogu videti stari nemački restorani i kafići, i , svakako najzanimljviija deci, igrajuća fontana.
Oko fontane se nalaze klupe za odmor i uživanje u pogledu na ovaj pravougaoni široki trg. Sedite na neku klupu i udahnite život Sibinja, posmatrajte građevine i ljude, i poslušajte nemački, rumunski, kineski, engleski , srpski i ostale svetske jezike. Čak 95 % stanovništva grada čine Nemci, pa ako znate nemački veoma lako ćete se sporazumevati sa stanovnicima Sibinja.
A osim što ćete vi posmatrati ljude i grad, i grad će posmatrati vas. Ako se okrenete oko sebe, videćete veliki broj kuća koje imaju prozore u obliku očiju, i sve vreme će vam se činiti da vas te oči znatiželjno posmatraju. Možda zvuči malo jezivo, ali meni je ovo bilo veoma interesantno, te sam kasnije i sama hvatala poglede iz nekih od okolnih kuća.
Primetićete takođe da sibinjske kuće ( i generalno kuće u Rumuniji) još uvek imaju one stare, šarene roletne, prozore ukrašene cvećem, iz kojih neretko vire rumunske bakice i posmatraju prolaznike. Tako da, u Sibinju nećete moći da prođete neopaženo.
Na trgu Plata Mare nalazi se i knjižara Schiller, u kojoj možete kupiti knjige, brošure, vodiče i veliki broj materijala za učenje i nastavu nemačkog jezika – ovde sam, naravno, mnogo toga pazarila
Sledeći trg na koji sam naišla je ušuškani trg Plata Mica ( Mali trg) . Do njega ćete stići prolaskom ispod Kule sa satom iz 13. veka. Trg je veoma privatan i na njemu sam najviše uživala ispijajući kafu u nekom od obližnjih kafića, a tu sam provodila i večeri jer se početkom jula ovde održavalo opštinsko prvenstvo u odbojci na pesku. Veoma mi se dopala navijačka atmosfera, te sam i sama sedela na tribinama, upoznala veliki broj lokalaca i sa njima navijala za njihove omiljene klubove. Oni su se oduševili mojom posetom njihovom gradu, a ja sam se oduševila time što su i nakon utakmica tribine ostale savršeno čiste ( i generalno nigde nisam videla smeće na ulici).
Siari grad Sibinja sastoji se od Gornjeg i Donjeg grada. Do Donjeg grada vodi mala uličica čije sam ime nažalost zaboravila ( ali ćete je svakako primetiti). Iznad nje se nalazi pešački most – Most laži. Legenda kaže da će se most srušiti ukoliko slažete dok ste na njemu. Ja se nisam usudila da slažem
Kada pređete Most laži, naići ćete na treći, najmanji i najstariji trg Sibinja – trg Huet. Njega krase Kula sa stepenicama – najstariji sačuvani objekat u gradu , iz 13.veka, luteranski parohijski dom i impozantna luteranska katedrala, koja je , nažalost, za vreme moje posete, bila zatvorena za posetioce.
Ako od Kule sa stepenicama siđete dole, naići ćete na Pasaž stepenica, u kom se nalazi najstariji restoran u gradu. Čak i <ako ne budete gladni, preporučujem da sednete u baštu restorana i naručite barem kafu, jer je pogled na Kulu sa stepenicama i toranj luteranske katedrale neopisiv. Ovde sam otkrila i vinski podrum, čija zelena cvetna bašta predstavlja pravu oazu.
Kako bi se zaštitili od napada, stanovnici Sibinja su u 14. veku izgradili i Potters kulu, četvrti odbrambeni pojas. Potters kula je prva građevina koju sam videla po dolasku u grad. Kraj nje se nalazi široko šetalište sa klupicama za zaljubljene, a ovde ćete neretko sresti i mladence koji se fotografišu.
Kada dođete do ove kule, predlažem da ostavite mapu i izgubite se u starogradskim ulicama Sibinja. Ovde se nalaze neki od najlepših fasada, restorana, sladoledžinica, i Prirodnjački muzej. Kada sam se našla ovde, muzej je imao postavku dinosaurusa, te su mi dopustili da prošetam baštom – gde je nastala i meni omiljena fotografija odavde.
Šetajući tako bez mape, naišla sam i na zanimljiv park – Astra park. On se nalazi nadomak starog grada. U njemu ćete naći statue poznatih Rumuna i nekoliko fontana. Ovaj park je odličan za predah od gradske vreve, opuštanje, ali i za lekciju o istoriji grada , i Rumunije uopšte.
Pored Astra parka, na drugom delu grada nalazi se i Astra etnografski muzej na otvorenom. Posetu ovom muzeju bih svakako preporučila, i za njega izaberite neki sunčan dan. Meni se dogodio peh da je taman nakon mog dolaska počelo nevreme, tako da je muzej zatvoren, a ja sam nažalost ostala uskraćena za doživljaj dubljeg otkrivanja rumunske tradicije i kulture.
Sve u svemu, ovo putovanje me je istinski obogatilo.
To je, pre svega, bilo prvo putovanje na kome sam bila potpuno sama. Shvatila sam koliko je važno umeti se osloniti na samog sebe i naučiti uživati sam, Naučila sam mnogo toga o Rumuniji , upoznala mnogo ljudi sa kojima sam i dalje u kontaktu. Zbog toga je ovo putovanje jedno od najlepših koje sam do sada preduzela, i posle koga sam, pored upoznavanja novog grada, bolje upoznala i sebe.
39 replies on “Sibinj – grad koji nas posmatra”
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