Kada sam na putovanjima, uglavnom me prati sreća, pa je tako bilo i na mom putovanju po Transilvaniji. Iako nisam planirala da posetim Bran i Brašov prilikom učešća na kampu u rumunskom selu Bekokten, nakon upoznavanja sa divnom gospođom Adom i njenim sinom Sorinom, odlučila sam da sa njima otputujem do njihovog rodnog mesta Brana, a zatim sam se našla i u Brašovu.
Bran je ustvari malo mesto, koje je, zbog Drakulinog dvorca, poznato u svetu. Lokalci se s jedne strane često nerviraju zbog tolikih posetioca, ali, s druge strane, priznaju da im prija što turisti sa svih strana sveta ostavljaju novac u njihovom selu. Oni prvi će vam često reći istinu – da ovo nije pravi Drakulin dvorac. Naime, grof Drakula nije nikad živeo u ovom dvorcu, već ga je samo posećivao. Bez obzira na to, on je svakako vredan vaše posete, barem zbog svog impozantnog izgleda.
Kada se nađete u Branu, videćete bezbroj suvenirnica, restorana , kafića posvećenih grofu. Možete probati Drakulinu kafu, Drakulin sendvič, Drakulin burger, Drakulin sladoled, obući majicu sa likom Drakule, ili i sami postati Drakula – kupovinom maske!
Ali, pre nego što jedete, pijete, i kupite suvenire, predlažem da kupite kartu za ulaz u dvorac, koja košta oko sedam evra. Kada prođete kroz kapiju, sa leve strane ćete videti muzej grofa Drakule, u koji obavezno treba da uđete pre posete dvorcu. U muzeju ćete saznati sve što treba da znate o Vladu Cepešu i njegovom životu. U samom dvorcu nećete mnogo saznati, jer u njemu možete da vidite samo odaje dvorca, i da pročitate par informacija. Sam dvorac je spolja predivan, međutim, iznutra me nije mnogo oduševio, moguće i zbog toga što je u uzanim prolazima i na spiralnim stepenicama često dolazilo do zastoja zbog ogromne gužve ( bila je subota). Ono što me jeste oduševilo je bašta dvorca, kojom možete prošetati, odmoriti se i napraviti par odličnih fotografija.
Pošto su me Ada i Sorin ostavili u Branu, trebalo je da pronađem prevoz do Brašova. Naišla sam na autobusku stanicu, gde sam sa još par turista sačekala međumesni autobus. Karta do Brašova je koštala 4 evra, a putovanje je trajalo oko 45 minuta. Autobus me je ostavio na glavnoj autobuskoj stanici u Brašovu, pa sam odatle gradskim autobusom konačno stigla do centra grada. Naravno, sve to uz pomoć divnih lokalaca, i jednog Catalina, Rumuna koji je došao u Transilvaniju da istražuje transilvanijska sela. Pošto je već bio u Brašovu, ponudio se da mi pokaže grad, tako da sam ovog puta imala i vodiča!
Prvo mesto gde smo zastali, umorni i željni kafe, bio je Bibliotheque Pub, koji se nalazi u samoj pešačkoj zoni, i ima prelepu baštu u pasažu. Ovde smo odmorili, uživajući u kafi, i listajući rumunske knjige
Nakon toga uputili smo se ka glavnom trgu Piata Sfatului. Glavna građevina na trgu je Stara gradska većnica iz 1420. godine, koja je danas muzej. Ako se okrenete u krug, videćete mnoštvo šarenih srednjovekovnih građevina, koje, uz samu Gradsku većnicu, čine jedan od najlepših trgova Rumunije.
Jedna od najimpresivnijih građevina u Brašovu je Crna crkva ( Biserica Neagră ), koja potiče iz 14. veka. Naziv je dobila zbog toga što su njeni zidovi i delovi krova pocrneli od velikog požara koji se dogodio u 17. veku. Unutrašnjost crkve je renovirana, dok je spoljašnjost ostala netaknuta. Crkva se može posetiti, cena ulaznice je oko dva evra. Kada smo mi bili unutra, nije postojala mogućnost penjanja u toranj, zbog renoviranja, ali ukoliko se nađete tamo, svakako možete pitati.
Naspram glavnog trga videćete veliko brdo na kome stoji naziv grada – podsetiće vas na Holivud! Ovo brdo je ustvari planina Tampa, i kada se popnete na njega, imaćete najbolji pogled na Brašov, sa visine od 955 m. Na brdo se možete popeti peške ili žičarom. Povratna karta za žičaru košta oko 4 evra. Žičara radi do 18h, ali ako ne stignete na nju, možete se spustiti peške do grada. Gore, osim što možete uživati u pogledu na crvene brašovske krovove i predivne srednjovekovne građevine, možete uživati i u hrani koja se sprema u improvizovanom fast food restoranu. Sedeći na panjevima, u hladu, ovde možete napraviti predah i napuniti baterije ( i stomak) za naredne pohode!
Nakon spuštanja žičarom, prošetali smo okolnim ulicama, i odjednom smo se našli u nekoj veoma uskoj ulici – Strada Sforii. Videli smo turiste koji je fotografišu – nije nam bilo jasno zbog čega – pa smo na internetu pročitali da se smatra najužom ulicom istočne Evrope. Eto – naleteli smo na znamenitost, a nismo ni znali! Svakako, bilo je lepo prohodati njome!
Obilazeći ulice, popeli smo se na još jedan vidikovac, skroz na drugoj strani grada, na kome smo našli manji zamak. Pošto je bio zatvoren, nismo saznali ništa o njemu, ali smo sa ovog dela grada mogli da vidimo i novi deo grada. Put to gore je bio strm i naporan, ali ga je olakšalo to što su kuće u ovom delu grada toliko divne , da sam nekoliko puta morala da stanem kako bih fotografisala.
Pošto je već bilo veče, vratili smo se do trga i uživali u osvetljenom gradu. Primećivalo se da se bliži subota uveče, grad je počeo stvarno da živi. Na trenutak, slušajući ulične svirače i sedeći na klupi, stvarno smo se osetili kao deo ovog grada. Odlučili smo se da kraj našeg dana u Brašovu dočekamo na istom mestu gde smo ga i započeli – a to je Bibliotheque Pub, koji je u večernjim satima vrveo od posetioca, i mladih i starijih.
Pošto sam preko Couchsurfing-a pronašla smeštaj kod jedne Irine, veče sam provela sa njom i jednim Mišom iz Slovačke, koji je takođe bio njen gost, učeći rumunski i pijući rumunsku rakiju – koja je mnogo jača od naše!
Nažalost, rano ujutru morala sam da krenem put Fagaraša, a u mojim mislima ostao je pogled na izlazak sunca u Brašovu, kog ću sigurno ponovo posetiti.
139 replies on “Neplanirano u Brašovu”
[…] posetite prvo muzej koji se nalazi sa leve strane, a zatim dvorac. Moja priča o Brašovu nalazi se ovde Iz Brašova možete posetiti i dvorac Peleš, i mnoštvo transilvanijskih sela. Nažalost, zbog […]
[…] Aline iz Temišvara ponudila besplatan prevoz od sela Bekokten do Sibinja, a jedna gospođa iz Brašova do dvorca Bran. Vozač autobusa u Rumuniji mi nije naplatio kartu, jedna Franzi mi je ponudila […]
Prosle jeseni smo putovali na cuvenu noc vestica…i bilo je zaista fascinantno…Karpate sam dozivela toliko emotivno,da uvek pozelim jos jedan povratak…dvorac Peles ,kao iz bajke..Brasov i sva mesta u okolini prepuni ulicnim obelezjima “vestica i duhova”…zaista lep dozivljaj
Hvala Vam na komentaru, zaista mi znači da čujem i Vaše utiske. Transilvaniju sam posetila tri puta, ali tamo sam uvek leti. Sad imam želju da je jednom posetim i krajem oktobra i osetim tu ” jezivu” atmosferu ?
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