U stilu kultnih pariskih kafea otvoren je u Pragu 1902. godine kafe Luvr, koji je od samog početka pripadao intelektualnoj eliti Praga. Opremljen nameštajem u stilu secesije i stolovima za bilijar, bio je glavno mesto okupljanja svetskih igrača bilijara, ali i pisaca, glumaca. slikara i naučnika 20. veka, koji su bar jedan deo svog života proveli u Pragu.
Kafe se i danas nalazi na istoj adresi – Narodni 22 i otvara se tačno u 8h, što je za navike današnjih Pražana prilično rano. Međutim, ima onih koji i danas prvu jutarnju kafu piju ovde, a uveče svrate na čašu vina sa prijateljima. Nekada se ovde svake godine održavao turnir u bilijaru, jer je kafe bio sedište Češkog bilijar kluba. Tradicija igranja bilijara je zadržana, te se danas ovde nalazi sala sa pet bilijarskih stolova.
Osim za igranje bilijara, mnogim piscima je ovaj kafe služio i kao kancelarija. Veoma često bi, sedeći za stolom, zapisivali svoje misli. Veruje se da su za ovim stolovima nastala neka od najpoznatijih dela češkog pisca Karela Čapeka, Franza Werfela i Franza Kafke. Iz tog razloga na svakom stolu nalazi se olovka i blokčić, iz kog možete „ukrasti” jedan list i zapisati svoje misli dok ispijate poznatu toplu čokoladu Louvre. Čokolada je veoma ukusna i sigurna sam da kafe čuva svoj tajni recept.
Od samog osnivanja kafić je bio mesto sastanka članova Nemačkog filozofskog kruga, među kojima su bili eksperimentalni psiholog Josef Eisenmayer, Oskar Kraus ( poznat po tome što je oštro kritikovao teoriju relativiteta) i studenti prava Max Brod i Franz Kafka. 1905. godine je Max Brod izbačen iz kruga, a nakon toga je i Kafka izašao, iz solidarnosti prema svom prijatelju. Iako više nisu bili članovi društva, to ih nije sprečilo da i dalje posećuju svoj omiljeni kafe. Kao profesor na Praškom univerzitetu, i sam Albert Einstein bio je čest gost kafića. 15.2.1925. godine ovde se sastalo 35 pisaca, članova češkog PEN kluba, na čelu sa Karelom Čapekom, kojem je prisustvovao i prvi predsednik Čehoslovačke Tomaš Garig Masarik.
Enterijer kafea ostao je isti kao i pre više od sto godina, i danas se još uvek mogu videti telefoni koje su mnogi koristili „da bi se napravili važnim”. Naime, Kafka u jednom od svojih pisama kaže: „ Bilo mi je veoma zabavno gledati kako su neke osobe primale pozive tokom cele noći. Umesto da spava, ta osoba bi sedela tačno pored telefona, dremajući. A s vremena na vreme bi je budila zvonjava, i ona bi se pravila da razgovara”. I mi smo se malo „pravili važnim” i isprobali stare telefone “na okretanje”.
Kafe Louvre je takođe bio značajan za emancipaciju žena početkom 20. veka, jer su žene iz visokog društva, kako sa svojim prijateljicama, tako i same, bile dobrodošle.
Za vreme komunizma kafe je bio zatvoren, a sav nameštaj je 1948. godine izbačen kroz prozor na ulicu. Rekonstukcija se dogodila 1992. godine, kada se tradicija nastavila, i od tada kafe radi nesmetano.
Danas je to jedan od najpoznatijih kafića u Pragu, mesto okupljanja studenata, ali i praške gospode, Poznat je po svojoj toploj čokoladi i izvrsnim kolačima, a ja sam ga posetila u nadi da je baš za mojim stolom sedeo i Kafka.
Da li biste rado posetili ovaj kafe i vratili se u 20. vek, otkrili tajne intelektualaca koji su ovde obitavali i recept za najbolju toplu čokoladu?
Da li biste možda popili kafu sa nekim drugim intelektualcem? Čekam vaše odgovore u komentarima!
Koje smo još tajne Praga otkrili, pročitajte ovde.
67 replies on “Na kafi sa intelektualcima: kafe Luvr, Prag”
Naravno da bih volela da posetim Prag . Nadam se da ce mi se ta zelja i ostvariti. Zaista bih volela da posetim kafe i osetim taj duh.
Odlican post ! ??
Hvala! ?Da, Prag je jedan od gradova koji stvarno ima mnogo da ponudi, iako jeste često preplavljen turistima, ima mnogo mesta gde se možemo osamiti i osetiti njegov pravi duh. Kafe Luvr je jedno od tih mesta 🙂
Upravo sam pročitala deo gde vas je odveo metro ? znači moramo ponovo ići ? taj deo uopšte nismo videli a nismo bili ni u kafeu Luvr na toploj čokoladi ☕ doduše popili smo je u Drezdenu ali u Prag moramo da se vratimo, hvala vam na divnom tekstu, pozdrav i još puno putovanja ???
Hvala mnogo! I ja se nadam da ću imati prilike da ponovo posetim Prag, a nadam se da ćete i Vi 🙂
[…] pijemo najukusniju toplu čokoladu ikada u kafeu Luvr sabiramo utiske od prvog dana. Ukrcavamo se na poslednji tramvaj i vozimo se ka […]
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