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Češka Putnica

Na kafi sa intelektualcima: kafe Luvr, Prag

U stilu kultnih pariskih kafea otvoren je u Pragu 1902. godine kafe Luvr, koji je od samog početka pripadao intelektualnoj eliti Praga. Opremljen nameštajem u stilu secesije i stolovima za bilijar, bio je glavno mesto okupljanja svetskih igrača bilijara, ali i pisaca, glumaca. slikara i naučnika 20. veka, koji su bar jedan deo svog života proveli u Pragu.

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Kafe se i danas nalazi na istoj adresi – Narodni 22 i otvara se tačno u 8h, što je za navike današnjih Pražana prilično rano. Međutim, ima onih koji i danas prvu jutarnju kafu piju ovde, a uveče svrate na čašu vina sa prijateljima. Nekada se ovde svake godine održavao turnir u bilijaru, jer je kafe bio sedište Češkog bilijar kluba. Tradicija igranja bilijara je zadržana, te se danas ovde nalazi sala sa pet bilijarskih stolova.

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Osim za igranje bilijara, mnogim piscima je ovaj kafe služio i kao kancelarija. Veoma često bi, sedeći za stolom, zapisivali svoje misli. Veruje se da su za ovim stolovima nastala neka od najpoznatijih dela češkog pisca Karela Čapeka, Franza Werfela i Franza Kafke. Iz tog razloga na svakom stolu nalazi se olovka i blokčić, iz kog možete „ukrasti” jedan list i zapisati svoje misli dok ispijate poznatu toplu čokoladu Louvre. Čokolada je veoma ukusna i sigurna sam da kafe čuva svoj tajni recept.

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Od samog osnivanja kafić je bio mesto sastanka članova Nemačkog filozofskog kruga, među kojima su bili eksperimentalni psiholog Josef Eisenmayer, Oskar Kraus ( poznat po tome što je oštro kritikovao teoriju relativiteta) i studenti prava Max Brod i Franz Kafka. 1905. godine je Max Brod izbačen iz kruga, a nakon toga je i Kafka izašao, iz solidarnosti prema svom prijatelju. Iako više nisu bili članovi društva, to ih nije sprečilo da i dalje posećuju svoj omiljeni kafe. Kao profesor na Praškom univerzitetu, i sam Albert Einstein bio je čest gost kafića. 15.2.1925. godine ovde se sastalo 35 pisaca, članova češkog PEN kluba, na čelu sa Karelom Čapekom, kojem je prisustvovao i prvi predsednik Čehoslovačke Tomaš Garig Masarik.

Enterijer kafea ostao je isti kao i pre više od sto godina, i danas se još uvek mogu videti telefoni koje su mnogi koristili „da bi se napravili važnim”. Naime, Kafka u jednom od svojih pisama kaže: „ Bilo mi je veoma zabavno gledati kako su neke osobe primale pozive tokom cele noći. Umesto da spava, ta osoba bi sedela tačno pored telefona, dremajući. A s vremena na vreme bi je budila zvonjava, i ona bi se pravila da razgovara”. I mi smo se malo „pravili važnim” i isprobali stare telefone “na okretanje”.

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Kafe Louvre je takođe bio značajan za emancipaciju žena početkom 20. veka, jer su žene iz visokog društva, kako sa svojim prijateljicama, tako i same, bile dobrodošle.

damen

Za vreme komunizma kafe je bio zatvoren, a sav nameštaj je 1948. godine izbačen kroz prozor na ulicu. Rekonstukcija se dogodila 1992. godine, kada se tradicija nastavila, i od tada kafe radi nesmetano.

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Danas je to jedan od najpoznatijih kafića u Pragu, mesto okupljanja studenata, ali i praške gospode, Poznat je po svojoj toploj čokoladi i izvrsnim kolačima, a ja sam ga posetila u nadi da je baš za mojim stolom sedeo i Kafka.

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Da li biste rado posetili ovaj kafe i vratili se u 20. vek, otkrili tajne intelektualaca koji su ovde obitavali i recept za najbolju toplu čokoladu?

Da li biste možda popili kafu sa nekim drugim intelektualcem? Čekam vaše odgovore u komentarima!

Koje smo još tajne Praga otkrili, pročitajte ovde.

104 replies on “Na kafi sa intelektualcima: kafe Luvr, Prag”

Naravno da bih volela da posetim Prag . Nadam se da ce mi se ta zelja i ostvariti. Zaista bih volela da posetim kafe i osetim taj duh.
Odlican post ! ??

Hvala! ?Da, Prag je jedan od gradova koji stvarno ima mnogo da ponudi, iako jeste često preplavljen turistima, ima mnogo mesta gde se možemo osamiti i osetiti njegov pravi duh. Kafe Luvr je jedno od tih mesta 🙂

Upravo sam pročitala deo gde vas je odveo metro ? znači moramo ponovo ići ? taj deo uopšte nismo videli a nismo bili ni u kafeu Luvr na toploj čokoladi ☕ doduše popili smo je u Drezdenu ali u Prag moramo da se vratimo, hvala vam na divnom tekstu, pozdrav i još puno putovanja ???

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