Olja i ja, drugarice iz gimnazije, godinama smo planirale zajedničko putovanje. Napokon smo uspele da uklopimo obaveze i termine i da se otisnemo u jednu, obema još nepoznatu državu. To je bila Belgija.
Dok smo planirale putovanje, otvorile smo Google mapu i pretražile gradove nadomak Brisela. Po svojoj lepoti i važnosti izdvojio se Antverpen. Dok smo čitale o njemu, pažnju su nam privukle antverpenske šake. Želele smo da saznamo šta one tačno predstavljaju, ali bezuspešno. Iz tog razloga smo odlučile da ga posetimo i razotkrijemo ovu misteriju.
Predložila sam joj da iskoristimo neprikosnovenu belgijsku železnicu i pođemo u avanturu vozom. Tako smo jednog jutra krenule ka glavnoj briselskoj železničkoj stanici Gare Centraal i na info-pultu od jednog ljubaznog mladog gospodina kupile povratne karte po ceni od 15,20 evra. Objasnio nam je da se karta može koristiti za sva mesta između polazne i krajnje stanice, i da je broj izlazaka i ulazaka u voz na toj relaciji u jednom danu neograničen. Ova informacija je bila veoma korisna, jer smo želele da u povratku posetimo i gradić Mehelen.
Ušle smo u prvi voz za Antverpen i udobno se smestile. Odlazak do grada u nepoznatoj državi čiji jezik ne govorimo, za dve Device već je bio veliki izazov. Jedva smo jedva čekale da stignemo i udahnemo i ovaj grad. Smenjivale su se male, napuštene stanice. Izgledalo je da u tim mestima između niko i ne živi. Promatrala sam naš vagon. Sve je bilo čisto, uredno i komforno. Slušala sam različite jezike naših saputnika, mešali su se francuski, holandski, engleski, nemački…Neke jezike nisam umela da raspoznam. U sve te razgovore umešao se anđeoski glas jedne Afrikanke koja je sedela naspram nas i, slušajući radio, pevala iz sveg glasa neku veselu pesmu. Nisam razumela ništa, ali melodija njene pesme i osmeh koji je pritom treperio na njenom licu ostali su mi do danas u mislima.
Nakon nešto manje od sat vremena stigle smo do našeg cilja – ogromne stanice Antwerpen Centraal Sama železnička stanica nam se veoma dopala, zbog svog šarmantnog baroknog izgleda.
Čim smo izašle primetile smo živost ovog grada. Videlo se već na prvi pogled da je on prestonica Flandrije. Ovaj grad je još davne 1993. godine bio Evropska prestonica kulture, što je doprinelo tome da nadjača sve ostale flandrijske gradove i održi se kao glavni grad regije. I danas odiše svojom kulturnom ponudom, sa mnoštvom muzeja, galerija, klasičnih koncerata i festivala koji se ovde održavaju. Pored toga, on je i univerzitetski grad od 1852. godine, te se iz tog razloga smatra i gradom mladih. Sa svojih preko pola miliona stanovnika najnaseljeniji je flandrijski grad. To smo i same primetile pri prvom našem koraku.
Užurbani putnici vukli su svoje kofere noseći mape i tražeći svoj smeštaj, deca su veselo koračala ka svojim školama, Belgijanci u skupim odelima, a Belgijanke u modernim suknjama i mantilima užurbano su išli ka poslu… Nebo je bilo tmurno, i očekujući dosadnu kišu, i mi smo, kao i ostali putnici, pohrlile ka srcu gradu – glavnom trgu Grote Markt.
„Samo pravo” – slušala sam Olju, koja je brižljivo pratila mapu, i na celom putovanju vešto uspevala da nađe put do našeg narednog odredišta. Ja sam posmatrala zgrade oko nas – kod svake sam pomislila da je u pitanju neka znamenitost, ali ne – to su bile obične stambene zgrade…„Koliko je ovde lepo”, ponavljala sam stalno.
Šetajući dalje po Oljinim uputstvima, stigle smo do biste slikara Antonisa van Dajka, koji je bio Rubensov učenik i predstavnik flamanske slikarske škole. Petar Paul Rubens je dobar deo svog života proveo u Antverpenu, odakle su poticali njegovi roditelji. Ovde se nalazi i njegova kuća Rubenshuis – koju je on sam projektovao u maniru italijanskih vila. Kuća mu je služila kao atelje i škola. Danas je to muzej i nalazi se u samom centru grada. Pošto se Antverpen veoma ponosi Rubensom, jedan od prostranijih trgova nosi njegovo ime i njime dominira Rubensova bista. Opkoljen je klupicama, mnogobrojnim kafićima i restoranima, i sa njega se pruža pogled ka veličanstvenoj Katedrali Naše Gospe.
Katedrala je izgrađena u periodu od 1352. do 1521. godine, a nakon toga je još par puta sređivana, ali nikada do kraja dovršena. Visoka je 123m i iz tog razloga se može videti iz svakog dela grada. A i ako ne gledate u njenom pravcu, dražesna melodija koja nastaje sintezom zvukova 49 zvona koja se u njoj nalaze podsetiće vas u svakom trenutku da ste u Antverpenu.
Nakon obilaska katedrale, stigle smo i do glavnog gradskog trga Grote Markt. Izuzetno nam se dopao, iako je bio dosta manji od belgijskih trgova koje smo do tada videle. Tu se nalaze dve važne građevine – renesansna Gradska kuća iz 1565. godine i fotogenični esnafski dom obučen u srednjovekovno ruho. Svaku od šarenih zgrada esnafskog doma na vrhu krasi zlatna statua nekog sveca, a jedna od najpoznatijih je na broju 7 – na njenom vrhu se nalazi statua svetog Đorđa.
Trgom dominira Brabo fontana koja u sebi krije najpoznatiju antverpensku legendu, ovde može kraj rečenice jer je ova baš duga Legenda kaže da je pored Šelde, reke na kojoj leži grad, živeo je div zvani Antigon koji je naplaćivao taksu onima koji su želeli da njome plove. Onima koji nisu želeli da plate, div bi odsecao šaku i bacao je u reku. Jednog dana pojavio se mladi heroj Silvius Brabo, koji je isto to uradio divu Silvius je za ovaj podvig dobio fontanu, a grad ime ( hol. hand werpen– baciti šaku). Šačice Antverpena postale su simbol grada, tako da čak i čokolade i keks prave u obliku šaka. Čokolada u obliku šake je najpoznatiji suvenir koji možete doneti iz Antverpena.
Dok smo slušale ovu zanimljivu gradsku legendu od jednog finog gospodina – vodiča, kome smo se pridružile na trgu, saznale smo da na reci Šeldi postoji i zamak Steen ( srp. kamen) – najstarija građevina u gradu. Naziva se tako jer je u vreme nastanka u Anverpenu bio jedini objekat od kamena – svi ostali su bili od drveta. Datira iz 13. veka, a do 1823, godine služio je kao zatvor. Danas se u njemu nalazi Muzej antikviteta
Prošetale smo do Šelde i divile se dvorcu iz svih uglova. Zavidele smo mu na takvom stavu i posle osam turbulentnih vekova. Nagrizao ga je zub vremena, ali ga nije pokolebao. Zamišljenu su me prekinule sirene brodova koji su pristizali da se usidre u najvećoj belgijskoj luci. Veče se bližilo, i zvono Katedrale Naše Gospe podsetilo nas je da je već bilo vreme da se pozdravimo od Antverpena.
Na putu ka železničkoj stanici naišle smo na Gradski park trouglastog oblika i odlučile da prošetamo njime. Park je zaista prostran i u njemu se krije jezerce i jedan svečani beli most. Zamišljala sam parove koji se ovde sigurno fotografišu nakon venčanja. Bilo je divno šetati parkom i sabrati utiske, uživati u jesenjim bojama i pritom posmatrati zečeve, patke i poneku vevericu čiji smo mir narušile šetajući ovuda.
S druge strane parka ponovo nas je dočekala železnička stanica. U vozu za Mehelen zasladile smo se preostalim antverpenskim šačicama, koje su do mi do tada bile misterija, a od tada najukusniji suvenir.
499 replies on “Antverpen i njegove misteriozne šake”
[…] provele smo u gradovima Briž, Gent, Anverpen i Mehelen. Ako želite, možete pročitati i tekstove Antverpen i njegove misteriozne šačice i Harmonija Briža. Iz Brisela smo otišle sa prepunim torbama piva, čokolade i suvenira, i – […]
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