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Plzen: poseta pivari Pilsner Urquell, i druge tajne češkog gradića

Nisam oduvek volela pivo. Kada sam ga prvi put probala, nije mi se dopalo. Jednostavno – nije mi bilo pitko, i uvek bih radije birala vino. U mom društvu su samo momci pili pivo, pa sam ga smatrala muškim pićem. Dok nisam prvi put posetila Češku.

Češka je zemlja piva, a Česi već vekovima ponosno stoje na vrhu liste njegovih obožavalaca. Prosečan Čeh popije čak 143 litra piva godišnje! O njegovoj popularnosti govori i činjenica da je u nekim gradovima pivo jeftinije od vode. Doći u Češku, a ne probati pivo, bio bi za mene veliki putnički greh, jer smatram da su lokalno jelo i piče deo kulture jednog mesta i odraz nacionalnog identiteta države u koju putujem.

Te 2013. godine, u Pragu, Marko i ja smo probali desetak vrsta piva – Kozel, Krušovice, Staropramen, Budweiser… Od svih nam se najviše dopao Pilsner Urquell. Zato smo pri svojoj drugoj poseti Pragu odlučili da izdvojimo jedan dan i posetimo Plzen, sedište najpoznatije pivare na svetu.

Odlučili smo da putujemo vozom, te smo jednog februarskog jutra utabanim snežnim stazama krenuli ka glavnoj železničkoj stanici u Pragu – Hlavny nadraži. Kupili smo povratne karte Praha – Plzen po ceni od 8,50 evra i udobno se smestili u svoj kupe. Vožnja od sat vremena prošla nam je u igranju Una – nakon stotinu partija, napokon sam i ja uspela da pobedim Marka! Pobedu sam kasnije proslavila jednom čašom nefiltriranog, nepasterziovanog, hladnog Pilsner Urquell piva!

Ali, poseta pivari i degustacija morala je da sačeka do kraja dana. Pri dolasku smo odmah otišli do pivare Plzensky Prazdroj kako bismo rezervisali turu na engleskom, ali je naredna u kojoj je bilo mesta bila tek u 15:30h. Ulaznica za stominutnu turu koštala je 200 čk ( oko 8 evra). Nakon što smo kupili ulaznice i osigurali učešće na turi, krenuli smo u obilazak grada.

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Plzen je od Praga udaljen oko 90km, četvrti je grad po veličini u Češkoj i ima oko 170 000 stanovnika. Nadaleko je poznat po svom pivu i po fabrici Škode iz 1859. godine. Međutim, to svakako nije sve ono što Plzen ima da ponudi.

Ono što je mene, pored piva, motivisalo da posetim Plzen jeste Gotska crkva svetog Bartolomeja. Ova crkva je izgrađena u 13. veku i ima najveći toranj u celoj Češkoj, visine 102,6m. Na toranj smo se naravno popeli, kako bismo videli panoramu grada, šarene zgrade, krovove i dimnjake, kao i fabriku Škoda u daljini.

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Ulaz u toranj košta 50 čk ( oko 2 evra). Samo penjanje do tornja je avantura za sebe: penjaćete se strmim spiralnim stepenicama i sklanjati paučinu koja se nakupila u uglovima drvenih stepenika. Kada zadihani dođete do vrha, nakon što ste prešli 301 stepenik, videćete pet različitih zvona koja krase ovu crkvu. Kada smo se popeli do terase tornja, mogli smo da uživamo u pogledu na Plzen i da otkrijemo znamenitosti koje smo odmah dodali na našu listu za obilazak.

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Nakon posete crkvi, prošetali smo Trgom Republike i posmatrali šarene zgrade koje ga oivičavaju. Imaju zanimljive fasade koje prenose duh različitih vremena, u zavisnosti od toga kada su građene. Najvažnija među njima je zgrada Gradske većnice iz 16. veka. Pored šarenih zgrada, trg krase i tri zlatne fontane, koje u vreme naše posete nisu radile.

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Sa vrha tornja videli smo i raskošnu Veliku sinagogu, koja mi se veoma dopala. To je treća najveća sinagoga na svetu, i druga po veličini u Evropi, izgrađena 1892. godine. Za vreme Drugog svetskog rata nije oštećena jer su je Nemci koristili za skadištenje oružja.

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Sa Trga Republike nastavili smo ka gradskom parku, u kom se nalazi Muzej zapadne Bohemije sa fontanom.

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Nakon toga smo nastavil da šetamo plzenskim ulicama, u nadi da ćemo naći neki dobar tradicionalni češki restoran. U blizini gradskog parka bile su postavljene kućice sa kobasicama i trdelnikom, ali mi smo želeli da sednemo i odmorimo od šetnje i da sakupimo energiju za obilazak pivare.

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Naišli smo na jedan azijski restoran – Zlatni zmaj. Iako nismo razmišljali da u češkom gradu jedemo azijsku hranu, odlučili smo da uđemo, jer pak nismo imali mnogo vremena, a restoran nam se učinio kvalitetnim. Od širokog izbora jela odlučili smo se za nešto klasično – čorbu i grilovanu piletinu u slatko-kiselom sosu. Usluga je brza i dobra, cene prikladne za češki standard. Za čorbu smo dobili kašiku, a za piletinu – samo štapiće, Da mi je neko rekao da ću u Češkoj učiti da jedem štapićima – nikad mu ne bih poverovala! Ljubazni konobar mi je pokazao kako se to pravilno radi, i ubrzo su nam tanjiri bili prazni!

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Nakon ručka usledilo je ono zbog čega smo u Plzen prvenstveno došli – poseta pivari! Tura na engleskom jeziku počinjala je u 15:30h, a u holu smo se sa našim vodičem i još desetak turista našli par minuta ranije. Nas dvoje iz Srbije, nekoliko Britanaca, jedna Amerikanka i jedan momak iz Indije družili smo se narednih 100 minuta.

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Tura obuhvata posetu staroj i novoj pivari, vožnju do i obilazak Vodenog tornja, obilazak pivskih podruma i posetu suvenirnici. Tokom nje saznali smo impresivne činjenice o Pilsner Urquell pivu, videli smo gde i kako se pivo pravi, probali njegove sastojke, odgledali kratak film o njegovom nastanku, upoznali proizvođače piva od 1842. godine do danas, vozili se autobusom do Vodenog tornja i posetili njegovu unutrašnjost.

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Na kraju smo prošetalli pivskim podrumima i probali nepasterizovano, nefiltrirano pivo pravo iz bureta 😉 Ako imate sreće kao Amerikanka iz naše grupe, uživaćete u dve čaše ovog sjajnog piva, pre nego što odete do suvenirnice i kupite nekoliko limenki ili flaša. Nažalost, pivo u podrumima se ne prodaje, služi samo za degustaciju, zato uživajte u svakom gutljaju!

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Od kada je Bavarac Jozef Groll došao u Češku i napravio ovo pivo 1842. godine, formula za pravljenje se nije promenila. Recept za pravljenje zna nekoliko ljudi i on se prenosi s kolena na koleno. Zanimljivo je da, iako danas postoji nova pivara, pivo se i dalje proizvodi u starim, modernizovanim bakarnim tankovima, jer se veruje da bakar doprinosi jačini njegovog ukusu. Poslednja analiza pokazala je da je pivo ostalo istog kvaliteta kao i pri prvoj proizvodnji. Danas se proizvodi milion litara dnevno i Pilsner Urquell je najprodavanije pivo u Češkoj.

sema
tankovi_n

Mene su ove činjenice zaista impresionirale i svakom ljubitelju piva bih preporučila da svrati u Plzen i uveri se u kvalitet na licu mesta. Veličina grupe je ograničena, vodiči veoma stručni i spremni da odgovore na sva vaša pitanja. Jedino što ne degustiraju pivo sa vama svaki put 😉 Sve informacije o turama možete naći na sajtu pivare

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Sa ukusom Pilsner Urquella i par krigli u našim torbama napustili smo Plzen. Uspeli smo da vidimo ono zbog čega smo došli i poseta ovom gradu će biti nešto što čemo svakako dugo i svima prepričavati. Ono što je sigurno je da ćemo pri svakoj narednoj poseti Češkoj piti Pilsner Urquell. Čak i ja, koja sam sada već jedan od obožavalaca dobrog piva 😉

Da li ste posetiti Plzen? Ako niste, da li sam vam ovim tekstom probudila wanderlust?
A ako vam se ovaj tekst svideo, pročitajte i ostale priče iz Češke ovde.

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