Dugo sam želela da posetim Vroclav. Još jedan poljski grad koji mi je privukao pažnju svojim šarenilom, multikulturalnošću i zanimljivom istorijom. Zbog prve fotografije koju sam videla, i preko bezbroj putopisa koje sam o njemu pročitala, ovaj grad mi je bio poznat slikom, ali sve do moje dugoočekivane posete ipak duhom nepoznat, misteriozan i pun iznenađenja.
Vroclav nije mali grad, sa svojih 650 000 stanovnika četvrti je grad po veličini u Poljskoj. Leži na reci Odri koja je sa svoje četiri pritoke načinila i podarila gradu 25 ostrva, i preko dve stotine mostova. Impresivno, zar ne? Mostova je bilo još više, ali je tokom Drugog svetskog rata 3/4 grada potpuno uništeno.
Svoj obilazak grada započeli smo od jedine građevine pod zaštitom UNESKO-a – Hale Stulecia, arhitektonskog dela Maksa Berga s početka 20.veka. Ispred hale nalazi se i zanimljiv spomenik u obliku igle. Ona ustvari predstavlja prosperitet poljskog naroda nakon rata, koji ide u visine.
Odmah pored hale nalazi se i multimedijalna fontana, koja radi od maja do oktobra, i klizalište , na kom smo posmatrali vešte klizače, posebno jednog simpatičnog deku.
Odmah u blizini može se videti i mala Japanska bašta, do koje vodi romantična promenada. Svakako vredna posete na proleće ili leto.
Ono što je mene najviše inspirisalo da posetim ovaj grad jeste njegov glavni trg – Rynek. Raznobojne, vesele zgrade koje ga oivičavaju prava su suprotnost monotonim komunističkim stambenim objektima u nekim delovima grada. Gradu daju svežinu i vedrinu. A i mene je, dok sam šetala Rynekom, obuzela neka radost i vedrina. Ona istinska sreća kada ostvarite neki od svojih putničkih snova. Rynek je mesto gde ćete najviše osetiti duh grada, on je stecište turista, ali i mesto sastanaka i rastanaka Vroclavaca. Vroclav je univerzitetski grad, te je bio prepun i studenata koji su ostali u gradu za vreme praznika i bili posebno euforični.
Trgom Rynek dominira stara gradska kuća, u čijem prizemlju se nalazi najstarija pivnica u Evropi – Piwnica Swidnicka, iz 1275. godine. Na našu žalost, pivnica je prilikom naše posete bila zatvorena.
Pošto smo imali sreću da ovde dođemo 31.decembra, osetili smo i poljsku novogodišnju euforiju. Posebno mi se dopala novogodišnja dekoracija u gradu. Sijalo je, ali sa merom – baš onako kako treba da bude. Pored čarobne na Ryneku, i ostali trgovi su mogli da se pohvale divnim jelkama.
Na trgovima Rynek i Solny postavljene su kućice u kojima se mogu kupiti kuvano vino, pivo, kafa i čaj, i naravno hrana – kobasice, kolenice sa kiselim kupusom, piroge, ražnjići, pomfrit…Pretpostavićete da smo sve probali, i da, u pravu ste 
Pored toga što smo uživali u hrani i piću, uživali smo i u poljskoj muzici na glavnom trgu. Novogodišnji program je bio bogat i raznolik, bilo je za svakoga ponešto. I naravno,uživali smo u vatrometu u ponoć.
A ako dođete u Vroclav, nećete upoznati samo Vroclavce, već i – patuljke. I to više od tri stotine! Priča o patuljcima vezana je za anti-komunistički pokret Narandžasta alternativa. To je ustvari bila grupa studenata koja se borila protiv komunizma na šaljiv način, a patuljak je bio njihov simbol. Njihov pokret nastao je u baru Barbara, u Svidničkoj ulici, ispred kog je i postavljen prvi patuljak 2001. godine. Od tada je tradicija nastavljena, i ove slatke figurice se i dalje postavljaju – u različitim delovima grada.
Patuljci su jedan od glavnih razloga dolaska turista ovde. Od njih je sada napravljena prava turistička atrakcija, pa ćete videti ljude koji idu i traže patuljke po gradu. Postoji i aplikacija za njihovo pronalaženje, kao i posebna tura sa vodičem pod nazivom Lov na patuljke. Meni je sve to bilo veoma simpatično, i prilikom obilaska naišli smo na oko trideset patuljaka, skrivenih u najrazličitijim uglovima grada, ispred prodavnica, pored reka…Svaki od njih je poseban i sigurno će vas nasmejati i ulepšati posetu gradu. Upoznaćete patuljka programera, spavača, sladoledžiju, zatvorenika, turistu, fotografa, Deda Mraza, boksera, svirača, cvećara…
Veliki broj patuljaka pronašli smo i na Katedralnom ostrvu ( Ostrow Tumski), najvećem i istorijski najznačajnijem ostrvu u Vroclavu. Ovde je grad počeo da se razvija – u 10. veku počela je gradnja prve katedrale. U to vreme grad je imao oko 1500 stanovnika.
Ostrow Tumski je, pored Ryneka, još jedno mesto na kome ćete osetiti duh ovog grada. slušajući ulične svirače, zvono sa katedrale, i uživajući u pogledu na Odru.
Ovo ostrvo je prepoznatljivo i po najlepšem vroclavskom mostu – takozvanom Ljubavnom. Prepoznaćete ga po romantičnom izgledu i bezbroju katanaca kojima su zaljubljeni parovi zaključali svoju ljubav. Međutim, ovaj most ima još jedan razlog da se nazove romantičnim – i danas, u 21. veku, svetiljke na mostu ručno pali jedan gospodin sa šeširom. U njegovu čast ovde je postavljen i patuljak koji pali svetiljku.
Kada je objavljeno da će grad Vroclav 2016. godine poneti titulu Evropske prestonice kulture, vlasti su odlučile da ga obogate turističkim atrakcijama. Pored patuljaka postavljenih u tom periodu, u ulici Jatka, u kojoj su nekada davno bile klanice, postavljene su bronzane figure životinja koje su dale svoje živote za pune stomake Vroclavaca i njihovih gostiju. Danas ovde možete videti veliki broj zanatskih radnji i galerija, i figure zeca, svinja, patke, krave i koze.
Kada budete bili u ulici Jatka, videćete toranj crkve Garisson – kažu da se sa ovog tornja pruža najlepši panoramski pogled na grad. Nažalost, toranj je bio u fazi renoviranja prilikom naše posete, tako da smo ostali uskraćeni za taj doživljaj. Inače, cena za posetu tornju je 5 zlota. Još jedan predlog za panoramski pogled je Sky Tower, kula od 49 spratova. Do poslednjeg sprata vas vodi lift, a cena je 10 zlota.
U Vroclavu većinu najznačajnijih istorijskih znamenitosti možete obići peške. Ukoliko želite da posetite zoološki vrt, Halu Stulecia ili Japansku baštu, potrebno je da koristite gradski prevoz. Karta za jednu vožnju je 1,50 zlota ( 1 evro je oko 4,20 zlota), a ako vam je smeštaj udaljen od centra, najbolje je da kupite dnevnu kartu, koja košta 5,50 zlota i važi za tramvaj i autobus. Ne zaboravite samo da otkucate kartu. Za informacije o gradskom prevozu u gradu možete koristiti odličnu aplikaciju Jakdojade ( može se skinuti sa Google Play-a).
Ako želite da napravite izlet do nekog drugog poljskog grada, najbolje je da koristite železnicu. Mene je oduševila železnička stanica, svojim izgledom, ali i enterijerom. Mi smo jedan dan proveli u mestu Walbrzych, gde smo posetili zamak Ksiaz, o kome sam pisalu u ovom tekstu.
A kada se umorite od šetnje , obilazaka, i traženja patuljaka, potražite pivnicu ili restoran i probajte neki poljski specijalitet ili kraft pivo. Izbor je stvarno veliki, a cene pristupačne.
Pošto Piwnica Swidnicka nije bila otvorena, odlučili smo da nađemo neku drugu. Tako smo, vraćajući se sa Katedralnog ostrva naišli na gradsku pijacu, a pored nje smo videli pivnicu Targowa, i odlučili da je posetimo. Pivnicu bih svima preporučila, osoblje je veoma ljubazno i odlično pričaju englesk. Pošto nismo bili sigurni koje pivo da uzmemo, besplatno smo degustirali par njih, a onda smo se odlučili za piva broj 6 i 12.
Kada god se nađem u Poljskoj, obavezno moram negde pojesti žurek. Žurek je ustvari čorba u činiji od hleba, tako da pojedete i čorbu i činiju. Postoji više vrsta žureka, ali sve koje sam do sada probala ( u Krakovu, Varšavi i sada u Vroclavu) su bile veoma ukusne. Odličan žurek probala sam u restoranu Kurna Chata, koji bih takođe preporučila. Svakako možete probati i ostala njihova jela, Marko je jeo piroge i nije se pokajao 
Pored poljskih, ovog puta smo posetili i jedan novozelandski restoran, Moaburger, koji se nalazi na Cvetnom trgu. Videli smo da ima mnogo posetilaca, te smo odlučili da i to probamo. Burgeri su bili odlični, probali smo klasični burger sa sirom i pileći burger – još jedna preporuka!
Tri dana nije mnogo, ali meni je bilo dovoljno da napokon upoznam ovaj grad. Iz njega nosim predivne uspomene, par razglednica i puno srce.
Da li ste vi bili u Vroclavu? Kakvi su vaši utisci?
70 replies on “U Vroclavu, među patuljcima”
Jako mi je zanimljivo da smo zapravo u isto vreme bile u Vroclavu. Lep tekst, vidi se da ti se baš svideo, a uostalom i jeste prelep grad. Ja bih ga posetila još jednom na proleće ili leto, mislim da je tad doživljaj potpuniji!
Takođe, želela bih da ga vidim u maju-junu kada mogu uživati više kraj reka, u baštama kafića. Hvala ti!
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