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Apokalipsa u Transilvaniji

Prilikom svog letnjeg boravka u Sibinju, jednom od većih transilvanijskih gradova, izrazila sam želju da jedan dan odem i do Segešvara, rodnog mesta grofa Drakule , i uživam u slikovitim kućama, kaldrmisanim ulicama i autentičnoj transilvanijskoj atmosferi ovog srednjovekovnog gradića. Kako niko od mojih poznanika nije bio raspoložen da početkom jula ide da obilazi grad, odlučila sam da sama krenem u ovu avanturu. Imala sam samo četiri dana do odlaska kući i nisam želela da ostanem uskraćena za ovaj doživljaj.

Kako to često biva kada se uživite u neko mesto i u njemu se osećate domaćinski, tako mi se i ovog puta desilo da sam se opustila u Sibinju i, iako sam želela tog dana na izlet, malo duže ostala u svom udobnom krevetu. Dok sam ustala, doručkovala i spremila se, već je bilo oko 11h. Ali, nije mi to smetalo. Verovala sam da imam sasvim dovoljno vremena da stignem, razgledam sve planirano i uveče stignem natrag u Sibinj.

Moj optimizam srušio je pogled gospodina sa železničke stanice, koji mi je svojom gestikulacijom davao do znanja da idem kasno u Segešvar. Nije mi bilo ništa jasno, jer sam videla da voz kreće u 11:30h, a da se do Segešvara putuje sat i po vremena. Da, sat i po vremena, bez presedanja! Ovo sam shvatila tek kada sam dobila u ruke svoju kartu, na kojoj je pisalo da je presedanje u mestu Copsa Mica i da ću na vezu čekati 2 sata. Pomislila sam – nema veze, to mesto Copsa Mica je sigurno zanimljivo i mogu za tih dva sata malo da ga obiđem, da popijem kafu. Nisam želela da paničim. Strpljivo sam čekala svoj voz.

Voz se sastojao od svega nekoliko vagona i više je podsećao na teretni. Videla sam par mlađih ljudi koji ulaze i pošla za njima. Još jednom sam proverila – bila sam u dobrom vozu. U kupeu sam sedela sama. Uz sebe sam imala flašicu vode i ruksak sa patikama u slučaju da me uhvati letnja kiša, pasoš, telefon i novčanik. Kopkalo me da na internetu pretražim šta to ima da se vidi u mestu Copsa Mica, ali nisam to uradila. Želela sam da se iznenadim. Bila sam ipak srećna što ću neplanirano posetiti još jedno mesto u Transilvaniji.

Posmatrala sam prirodu kroz prozor. Uvek sam baš zbog toga obožavala vožnju vozom. Prolazili smo kroz živopisne krajolike, pored pustih sela, humki, kristalno čistih jezera, bujnih šuma…Voz je išao toliko sporo da sam mogla da otvorim prozor i s blagim vetrom u kosi uživam u svežem letnjem vazduhu.

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U moj kupe ušao je kontrolor i pokazao da je Copsa Mica naredna stanica. Gledala sam kroz prozor očekujući da se preda mnom stvori prelepi pejzaž, živopisno selo ili neki mali gradić.

Na moje zaprepašćenje, nije me dočekalo ništa. Samo pruga. Usijano kamenje među zarđalim šinama. Pusta stanica koja je bila potpuno urušena. Trafika na kojoj niko nije radio. Njiva koju niko nije obrađivao. To je bila jedna pustara.

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Fotografija sa interneta

Voz je otišao i ostala sam sama na pruzi. Tada je krenula panika. Hiljadu misli prošlo mi je kroz glavu. Strah od nepoznatog prevladao je u meni. Napolju je bilo 40 stepeni. Sandale su mi se upalile od vrelog betona. Nigde drveta. Prvo sam odlučila da potražim hlad. Ostalo mi je još pola flašice vode i to je u tom trenutku bila moja jedina nada. Sela sam u senku trafike i pomislila „Šta mi je ovo trebalo?” Imala sam mobilni sa sobom i rumunsku karticu sa internetom. Međutim, nije bilo dometa. Izašla sam iz svog hlada i pokušala da uhvatim neki signal. Iako sam ga pronašla na vrelom suncu, ostala sam tu i počela da šaljem poruke dragim ljudima. Javila sam im gde sam i u dopisivanju s njima vreme mi je brže prolazilo. Samo sam želela da naiđe taj voz za Segešvar. U 14h.

Posle pola sata čekanja navikla sam se na svoju okolinu. Prvi šok je prošao i malo sam se smirila. Iako sam i dalje bila nepoverljiva prema svakom šumu u daljini, ubedila sam sebe da će sve biti u redu i da će voz sigurno doći. Još samo sat i po, brzo će to proći. U daljini sam videla neke fabrike koje su mi izgledale zatvorene, opustošenu zemlju, i par sivih kućica koje su mi izgledale kao izgorele. Nisam imala hrabrosti da peške istražujem ovo mesto gde sam se nalazila. Slaba internet konekcija mi nije dozvoljavala da na internetu pročitam nešto o mestu gde sam, niti da proverim red vožnje. U vazduhu se osećao miris rđe. Nisam mogla osetiti svežinu, iako je vetar lagano duvao.

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Copsa Mica – Diši ako možeš

U jednom trenutku začula sam korake iza sebe. Približavao mi se stariji krupan čovek s brkovima, u uniformi konduktera. Sigurno je radio ovde i došao je na smenu. Obradovala sam mu se i nasmešila. Ali, on me je samo gledao. Nije izustio ni reči. Verovatno ni on nije verovao da se neko zatekao ovde. Promrmljala sam; „Sighisoara”, nakon čega se on zamislio i negde otišao. Vratio se posle 15ak minuta sa papirom na kom je pisalo. „Sighisoara 14.00”. Klimnula sam oduševljeno i zahvalila se nevešto na rumunskom. Zatim mi je on svojim neveštim engleskim ponudio kafu. „Otkud mu sad ovde kafa”, pitala sam se, ali sam potvrdila da je žarko želim. Opet je otišao. Vratio se brzo sa vrelom kafom i rekao mi da košta 1 lei. Nepoverljivo sam izvadila novčanik i dala mu novac, brzo pakujući novčanik nazad u torbu. U tom trenutku platila bih i mnogo više, samo da popijem nešto. Moja flašica sa vodom bila je skoro prazna, a ostalo mi je još sat vremena čekanja.

Ostao je kraj mene i nešto govorio na rumunskom. Od svega sam razumela da je Segešvar lepo mesto. Pokušala sam da mu objasnim da sam iz Srbije, ali na pomen moje zemlje on nije reagovao. Samo je nastavio svoju priču, a ja sam klimala glavom iako nisam razumela ni reči. Bilo mi je žao što ne mogu da razgovaram sa ljubaznim kondukterom. Verujem da na ovu stanicu retko ko svraća ili se na njoj zadržava i da mu je posao verovatno monoton. Nikad ne bih volela raditi na ovako pustom mestu.

U međuvremenu sam uspela uhvatiti bolji signal i na internetu pretražila Copsa Micu. Saznala da je jedno od najzagađenijih mesta Evrope jer je 60-ih godina 20. veka postala lokacija za izgradnju nekoliko fabrika teške industrije. Vlada je bila svesna posledica do kojih će to dovesti, te je farmerima zabranjeno da prodaju svoje proizvode izvan ove regije. Za 10ak godina sva flora je uništena, pocrnela od štetnih gasova koje su proizvodile dve velike fabrike, Carbosin i Sometra. Ova ekološka katastrofa prouzrokovala je i visoku smrtnost u regiji Copsa Mice, a prosečan životni vek u ovom mestu smanjen je za devet godina. Fabrike su prestale sa radom 90-ih godina, ali i danas, kada se nađete u ovom mestu, plašićete se da udahnete. Tako je bilo i sa mnom, kada sam pročitala ove informacije.

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Fotografija sa interneta

Čekanje voza na ovom mestu bilo je s jedne strane grozno, a sa druge strane veoma zanimljivo. Sigurna sam da ove informacije ne bih nikad saznala da se nisam našla ovde, a nikad ne bih ni posetila ovo mesto svojevoljno. Fotografije na internetu dovoljno su govorile o njemu – sivilo, beda, bolest, dim, groblje. Stanovništvo se mahom iseljavalo, ali zbog siromaštva mnogi su morali da ostanu ovde, udišući otrovni vazduh i unoseći razne hemikalije u svoj organizam. A kondukter, ko zna koliko godina već radi ovde…

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Fotografija sa interneta

Nakon nekog vremena primetila sam da meštani stižu na stanicu. Voz je trebalo da stigne za 20 minuta. Pripremala sam se za ulazak, strahujući da ću nekim slučajem zakasniti i da ću morati još da ostanem u ovom apokaliptičnom mestu. Pitala sam jednu devojku da li ide do Segešvara. Rekla je da čeka voz za Kluž koji dolazi u isto vreme. Dodala je da za živi u Copsa Mici. Potvrdila mi je ono što sam pročitala, da je mesto i dalje veoma zagađeno, iako je vlada obećala da će ga očistiti, to se još uvek nije desilo. „Rumunija ima veće probleme” – rekla je sarkastično. Ali, čim joj finansije omoguće, i ona će otići da živi u Sibinj. Iskreno sam joj poželela sreću. Naš razgovor prekinuo je zvižduk voza iz daljine.

U jednom trenutku stigla su dva voza. Trčali smo preko šina jer ne postoji drugi način da se stigne do ulaza. U celom haosu videla sam gospodina konduktera koji mi je mahao i pokazivao da treba da uđem u voz sa leve strane. Zahvalila sam mu se i veselo uskočila u čist, prostran vagon sa plavim sedištima.

Pogledala sam kroz prozor. Kondukter je ostao sam na svom radnom mestu. Vratio se svojoj svakodnevnici, verovatno u nadi da će i sutradan neki turista odlučiti da se „iznenadi”u Copsa Mici. U vozu sam napokon bila smirena. Razmišljala sam o onome što sam doživela i shvatila koliko sam imala sreće, jer je ipak sve dobro prošlo.

Razmišljala sam i o Copsa Mici. Mestu koje je zaboravljeno i odsečeno od sveta. Mestu u kom se deca rađaju bolesna. Mestu u kom meštani ne mogu da uzgoje nijednu biljku. Jedini koji ovde svraćaju jesu turisti koji žele da vide Segešvar. A kad poslednji voz prođe, mesto ostaje pusto i zagušljivo. Bez cvrkuta ptica.

Jedan profesor sa Univeziteta u Sibinju je rekao: „Copsa Mica je i danas ( 2013.) opasno mesto za život. Sve što udahnete, sve što dotaknete, sve što pojedete opasno je po vaše zdravlje”.

Do Segešvara me je delilo 45 minuta.

A kako sam se (s)nasla u Segešvaru, saznajte ovde.

Da li ste vi nekada imali sličnu situaciju? Kako ste je rešili? Šta ste iz nje naučili? Pišite mi o tome u komentarima.

239 replies on “Apokalipsa u Transilvaniji”

Da, iznenađuje uvek. A nisam ni bila svesna njene površine dok se nisam našla tamo. Svakako želim opet da je posetim, posebno me privlači Maramures regija 🙂

Svaki region je zanimljiv… Nisam obišao Maramureš, bio u Klužu, to je malo južno i prošao potez uz našu granicu, pa od Temišvara, preko Bukurešta ka Konstanci… Baš su me Rumuni tada inspirisali, pa sam i na blogu napisao tekst posvećen njima. Mada sam se više bavio razmatranjem gde su oni, a gde mi… Odličan ti je ovaj tekst…

Hvala 🙂 Ta situacija je jedna od onih kada se nađemo van zone komfora, a ne možemo se u istu vratiti već izvan nje moramo ostati. To su one situacije kada rastemo. Mislim da sam posle Copsa Mice porasla, dobila na samopouzdanju i shvatila koliko toga zavisi od našeg optimizma. Osmeh i pozitivne misli pomažu uvek 🙂

Mene Rumunija izuzetno privlaci iz nekog nepoznatog razloga..bio u Temisvaru i Bukurestu u uvek sam stekao neki utisak da su ljudi uplaseni, nepoverljivi prema strancima (cak i mladi) i nekako mi deluju tuzno da ne kazem nesrecno sa sve psima lutalicama i malim romima…prosto je neverovatno da dve komsijske zemlje tako malo znaju jedano o drugoj i da jos uvek vladamo stereotipima i predrasudama prema njima i obratno,.. hteo bih posetiti njihovu obalu Crno mora, cuo sam da se ide zeleznicom iz Bukuresta osam sati…

I mene je oduvek privlačila, a sad kad poznajem njen jedan mali deo- provlači me, iskreno, još više. Posebno delta Dunava i regija Maramureš. Hvala Vam na komentaru i čekam Vaše utiske iz Rumunije uskoro 🙂

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Almanya’nın en iyi medyumu haluk hoca sayesinde sizlerde güven içerisinde çalışmalar yaptırabilirsiniz, 40 yıllık uzmanlık ve tecrübesi ile sizlere en iyi medyumluk hizmeti sunuyoruz.

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Almanya’nın en çok tercih edilen medyumu haluk yıldız hoca olarak bilinmektedir, 40 yıllık tecrübesi ile sizlere en iyi bağlama işlemini yapan ilk medyum hocadır.

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Merhaba Ben Haluk Hoca, Aslen Irak Asıllı Arap Hüseyin Efendinin Torunuyum. Yaklaşık İse 40 Yıldır Havas Ve Hüddam İlmi Üzerinde Sizlere 100 Sonuç Veren Garantili Çalışmalar Hazırlamaktayım, 1964 Yılında Irak’ın Basra Şehrinde Doğdum, Dedem Arap Hüseyin Efendiden El Aldım Ve Sizlere 1990 lı Yıllardan Bu Yana Medyum Hocalık Konularında Hizmet Veriyorum, 100 Sonuç Vermiş Olduğum Çalışmalar İse, Giden Eşleri Sevgilileri Geri Getirme, Aşk Bağlama, Aşık Etme, Kısmet Açma, Büyü Bozma Konularında Garantili Sonuçlar Veriyorum, Başta Almanya Fransa Hollanda Olmak Üzere Dünyanın Neresinde Olursanız Olun Hiç Çekinmeden Benimle İletişim Kurabilirsiniz.

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Yet another thing to mention is that an online business administration study course is designed for students to be able to efficiently proceed to bachelors degree courses. The Ninety credit college degree meets the other bachelor diploma requirements when you earn your own associate of arts in BA online, you should have access to the most up-to-date technologies in this field. Some reasons why students have to get their associate degree in business is because they may be interested in the field and want to receive the general education necessary in advance of jumping right bachelor education program. Thanks for the tips you really provide in the blog.

Dünyaca ünlü medyum haluk hoca, 40 yıllık uzmanlık ve tecrübesi ile sizlere en iyi hizmetleri vermeye devam ediyor, Aşk büyüsü bağlama büyüsü giden sevigiliyi geri getirme.

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Excellent read, I just passed this onto a friend who was doing some research on that. And he just bought me lunch because I found it for him smile So let me rephrase that: Thanks for lunch!

I have observed that over the course of making a relationship with real estate owners, you’ll be able to get them to understand that, in each and every real estate exchange, a fee is paid. In the end, FSBO sellers do not “save” the commission rate. Rather, they try to win the commission by way of doing the agent’s job. In accomplishing this, they commit their money and also time to execute, as best they are able to, the tasks of an realtor. Those jobs include getting known the home by means of marketing, presenting the home to prospective buyers, constructing a sense of buyer desperation in order to induce an offer, preparing home inspections, taking on qualification inspections with the bank, supervising maintenance, and aiding the closing.

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Also a thing to mention is that an online business administration course is designed for scholars to be able to smoothly proceed to bachelor degree programs. The Ninety credit college degree meets the other bachelor college degree requirements and once you earn your associate of arts in BA online, you’ll have access to the most up-to-date technologies within this field. Several reasons why students have to get their associate degree in business is because they may be interested in the field and want to get the general knowledge necessary before jumping right into a bachelor education program. Thanks for the tips you really provide within your blog.

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I’ve learned quite a few important things as a result of your post. I might also like to mention that there may be a situation where you will make application for a loan and never need a cosigner such as a U.S. Student Support Loan. But when you are getting credit through a conventional creditor then you need to be prepared to have a cosigner ready to assist you to. The lenders are going to base any decision using a few aspects but the main one will be your credit history. There are some loan providers that will furthermore look at your job history and determine based on this but in most cases it will be based on on your credit score.

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I’ve learned newer and more effective things out of your blog post. Also a thing to I have observed is that usually, FSBO sellers will certainly reject an individual. Remember, they will prefer to not use your services. But if an individual maintain a reliable, professional romance, offering help and remaining in contact for about four to five weeks, you will usually be able to win a meeting. From there, a house listing follows. Thanks a lot

When I originally commented I clicked the “Notify me when new comments are added” checkbox and now each time a comment is added I get three e-mails with the same comment. Is there any way you can remove me from that service? Cheers!

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The very core of your writing whilst appearing reasonable initially, did not really sit very well with me after some time. Somewhere within the sentences you actually were able to make me a believer but just for a very short while. I nevertheless have a problem with your leaps in assumptions and one would do nicely to help fill in those gaps. In the event that you actually can accomplish that, I could surely end up being impressed.

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In these days of austerity and relative anxiety about running into debt, many people balk about the idea of having a credit card to make purchase of merchandise or pay for any gift giving occasion, preferring, instead only to rely on the actual tried plus trusted means of making repayment – cash. However, if you possess the cash there to make the purchase completely, then, paradoxically, that is the best time to use the credit card for several causes.

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One important issue is that when you find yourself searching for a education loan you may find that you’ll want a co-signer. There are many scenarios where this is correct because you might discover that you do not employ a past credit ranking so the lender will require you have someone cosign the financing for you. Good post.

Hmm is anyone else encountering problems with the images on this blog loading? I’m trying to figure out if its a problem on my end or if it’s the blog. Any feed-back would be greatly appreciated.

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Hi there! Quick question that’s totally off topic. Do you know how to make your site mobile friendly? My weblog looks weird when browsing from my iphone. I’m trying to find a theme or plugin that might be able to correct this issue. If you have any suggestions, please share. Many thanks!

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