Prilikom svog letnjeg boravka u Sibinju, jednom od većih transilvanijskih gradova, izrazila sam želju da jedan dan odem i do Segešvara, rodnog mesta grofa Drakule , i uživam u slikovitim kućama, kaldrmisanim ulicama i autentičnoj transilvanijskoj atmosferi ovog srednjovekovnog gradića. Kako niko od mojih poznanika nije bio raspoložen da početkom jula ide da obilazi grad, odlučila sam da sama krenem u ovu avanturu. Imala sam samo četiri dana do odlaska kući i nisam želela da ostanem uskraćena za ovaj doživljaj.
Kako to često biva kada se uživite u neko mesto i u njemu se osećate domaćinski, tako mi se i ovog puta desilo da sam se opustila u Sibinju i, iako sam želela tog dana na izlet, malo duže ostala u svom udobnom krevetu. Dok sam ustala, doručkovala i spremila se, već je bilo oko 11h. Ali, nije mi to smetalo. Verovala sam da imam sasvim dovoljno vremena da stignem, razgledam sve planirano i uveče stignem natrag u Sibinj.
Moj optimizam srušio je pogled gospodina sa železničke stanice, koji mi je svojom gestikulacijom davao do znanja da idem kasno u Segešvar. Nije mi bilo ništa jasno, jer sam videla da voz kreće u 11:30h, a da se do Segešvara putuje sat i po vremena. Da, sat i po vremena, bez presedanja! Ovo sam shvatila tek kada sam dobila u ruke svoju kartu, na kojoj je pisalo da je presedanje u mestu Copsa Mica i da ću na vezu čekati 2 sata. Pomislila sam – nema veze, to mesto Copsa Mica je sigurno zanimljivo i mogu za tih dva sata malo da ga obiđem, da popijem kafu. Nisam želela da paničim. Strpljivo sam čekala svoj voz.
Voz se sastojao od svega nekoliko vagona i više je podsećao na teretni. Videla sam par mlađih ljudi koji ulaze i pošla za njima. Još jednom sam proverila – bila sam u dobrom vozu. U kupeu sam sedela sama. Uz sebe sam imala flašicu vode i ruksak sa patikama u slučaju da me uhvati letnja kiša, pasoš, telefon i novčanik. Kopkalo me da na internetu pretražim šta to ima da se vidi u mestu Copsa Mica, ali nisam to uradila. Želela sam da se iznenadim. Bila sam ipak srećna što ću neplanirano posetiti još jedno mesto u Transilvaniji.
Posmatrala sam prirodu kroz prozor. Uvek sam baš zbog toga obožavala vožnju vozom. Prolazili smo kroz živopisne krajolike, pored pustih sela, humki, kristalno čistih jezera, bujnih šuma…Voz je išao toliko sporo da sam mogla da otvorim prozor i s blagim vetrom u kosi uživam u svežem letnjem vazduhu.
U moj kupe ušao je kontrolor i pokazao da je Copsa Mica naredna stanica. Gledala sam kroz prozor očekujući da se preda mnom stvori prelepi pejzaž, živopisno selo ili neki mali gradić.
Na moje zaprepašćenje, nije me dočekalo ništa. Samo pruga. Usijano kamenje među zarđalim šinama. Pusta stanica koja je bila potpuno urušena. Trafika na kojoj niko nije radio. Njiva koju niko nije obrađivao. To je bila jedna pustara.
Voz je otišao i ostala sam sama na pruzi. Tada je krenula panika. Hiljadu misli prošlo mi je kroz glavu. Strah od nepoznatog prevladao je u meni. Napolju je bilo 40 stepeni. Sandale su mi se upalile od vrelog betona. Nigde drveta. Prvo sam odlučila da potražim hlad. Ostalo mi je još pola flašice vode i to je u tom trenutku bila moja jedina nada. Sela sam u senku trafike i pomislila „Šta mi je ovo trebalo?” Imala sam mobilni sa sobom i rumunsku karticu sa internetom. Međutim, nije bilo dometa. Izašla sam iz svog hlada i pokušala da uhvatim neki signal. Iako sam ga pronašla na vrelom suncu, ostala sam tu i počela da šaljem poruke dragim ljudima. Javila sam im gde sam i u dopisivanju s njima vreme mi je brže prolazilo. Samo sam želela da naiđe taj voz za Segešvar. U 14h.
Posle pola sata čekanja navikla sam se na svoju okolinu. Prvi šok je prošao i malo sam se smirila. Iako sam i dalje bila nepoverljiva prema svakom šumu u daljini, ubedila sam sebe da će sve biti u redu i da će voz sigurno doći. Još samo sat i po, brzo će to proći. U daljini sam videla neke fabrike koje su mi izgledale zatvorene, opustošenu zemlju, i par sivih kućica koje su mi izgledale kao izgorele. Nisam imala hrabrosti da peške istražujem ovo mesto gde sam se nalazila. Slaba internet konekcija mi nije dozvoljavala da na internetu pročitam nešto o mestu gde sam, niti da proverim red vožnje. U vazduhu se osećao miris rđe. Nisam mogla osetiti svežinu, iako je vetar lagano duvao.
U jednom trenutku začula sam korake iza sebe. Približavao mi se stariji krupan čovek s brkovima, u uniformi konduktera. Sigurno je radio ovde i došao je na smenu. Obradovala sam mu se i nasmešila. Ali, on me je samo gledao. Nije izustio ni reči. Verovatno ni on nije verovao da se neko zatekao ovde. Promrmljala sam; „Sighisoara”, nakon čega se on zamislio i negde otišao. Vratio se posle 15ak minuta sa papirom na kom je pisalo. „Sighisoara 14.00”. Klimnula sam oduševljeno i zahvalila se nevešto na rumunskom. Zatim mi je on svojim neveštim engleskim ponudio kafu. „Otkud mu sad ovde kafa”, pitala sam se, ali sam potvrdila da je žarko želim. Opet je otišao. Vratio se brzo sa vrelom kafom i rekao mi da košta 1 lei. Nepoverljivo sam izvadila novčanik i dala mu novac, brzo pakujući novčanik nazad u torbu. U tom trenutku platila bih i mnogo više, samo da popijem nešto. Moja flašica sa vodom bila je skoro prazna, a ostalo mi je još sat vremena čekanja.
Ostao je kraj mene i nešto govorio na rumunskom. Od svega sam razumela da je Segešvar lepo mesto. Pokušala sam da mu objasnim da sam iz Srbije, ali na pomen moje zemlje on nije reagovao. Samo je nastavio svoju priču, a ja sam klimala glavom iako nisam razumela ni reči. Bilo mi je žao što ne mogu da razgovaram sa ljubaznim kondukterom. Verujem da na ovu stanicu retko ko svraća ili se na njoj zadržava i da mu je posao verovatno monoton. Nikad ne bih volela raditi na ovako pustom mestu.
U međuvremenu sam uspela uhvatiti bolji signal i na internetu pretražila Copsa Micu. Saznala da je jedno od najzagađenijih mesta Evrope jer je 60-ih godina 20. veka postala lokacija za izgradnju nekoliko fabrika teške industrije. Vlada je bila svesna posledica do kojih će to dovesti, te je farmerima zabranjeno da prodaju svoje proizvode izvan ove regije. Za 10ak godina sva flora je uništena, pocrnela od štetnih gasova koje su proizvodile dve velike fabrike, Carbosin i Sometra. Ova ekološka katastrofa prouzrokovala je i visoku smrtnost u regiji Copsa Mice, a prosečan životni vek u ovom mestu smanjen je za devet godina. Fabrike su prestale sa radom 90-ih godina, ali i danas, kada se nađete u ovom mestu, plašićete se da udahnete. Tako je bilo i sa mnom, kada sam pročitala ove informacije.
Čekanje voza na ovom mestu bilo je s jedne strane grozno, a sa druge strane veoma zanimljivo. Sigurna sam da ove informacije ne bih nikad saznala da se nisam našla ovde, a nikad ne bih ni posetila ovo mesto svojevoljno. Fotografije na internetu dovoljno su govorile o njemu – sivilo, beda, bolest, dim, groblje. Stanovništvo se mahom iseljavalo, ali zbog siromaštva mnogi su morali da ostanu ovde, udišući otrovni vazduh i unoseći razne hemikalije u svoj organizam. A kondukter, ko zna koliko godina već radi ovde…
Nakon nekog vremena primetila sam da meštani stižu na stanicu. Voz je trebalo da stigne za 20 minuta. Pripremala sam se za ulazak, strahujući da ću nekim slučajem zakasniti i da ću morati još da ostanem u ovom apokaliptičnom mestu. Pitala sam jednu devojku da li ide do Segešvara. Rekla je da čeka voz za Kluž koji dolazi u isto vreme. Dodala je da za živi u Copsa Mici. Potvrdila mi je ono što sam pročitala, da je mesto i dalje veoma zagađeno, iako je vlada obećala da će ga očistiti, to se još uvek nije desilo. „Rumunija ima veće probleme” – rekla je sarkastično. Ali, čim joj finansije omoguće, i ona će otići da živi u Sibinj. Iskreno sam joj poželela sreću. Naš razgovor prekinuo je zvižduk voza iz daljine.
U jednom trenutku stigla su dva voza. Trčali smo preko šina jer ne postoji drugi način da se stigne do ulaza. U celom haosu videla sam gospodina konduktera koji mi je mahao i pokazivao da treba da uđem u voz sa leve strane. Zahvalila sam mu se i veselo uskočila u čist, prostran vagon sa plavim sedištima.
Pogledala sam kroz prozor. Kondukter je ostao sam na svom radnom mestu. Vratio se svojoj svakodnevnici, verovatno u nadi da će i sutradan neki turista odlučiti da se „iznenadi”u Copsa Mici. U vozu sam napokon bila smirena. Razmišljala sam o onome što sam doživela i shvatila koliko sam imala sreće, jer je ipak sve dobro prošlo.
Razmišljala sam i o Copsa Mici. Mestu koje je zaboravljeno i odsečeno od sveta. Mestu u kom se deca rađaju bolesna. Mestu u kom meštani ne mogu da uzgoje nijednu biljku. Jedini koji ovde svraćaju jesu turisti koji žele da vide Segešvar. A kad poslednji voz prođe, mesto ostaje pusto i zagušljivo. Bez cvrkuta ptica.
Jedan profesor sa Univeziteta u Sibinju je rekao: „Copsa Mica je i danas ( 2013.) opasno mesto za život. Sve što udahnete, sve što dotaknete, sve što pojedete opasno je po vaše zdravlje”.
Do Segešvara me je delilo 45 minuta.
A kako sam se (s)nasla u Segešvaru, saznajte ovde.
Da li ste vi nekada imali sličnu situaciju? Kako ste je rešili? Šta ste iz nje naučili? Pišite mi o tome u komentarima.
99 replies on “Apokalipsa u Transilvaniji”
[…] ide kroz Medias. Međutim, ukoliko nemate toliko sreće , imaćete samo opciju da presedate u mestu Copsa Mica . Informacije o vozovima u Rumuniji možete videti […]
Čudna je ta Rumunija, ogromna i puna neobičnosti….
Da, iznenađuje uvek. A nisam ni bila svesna njene površine dok se nisam našla tamo. Svakako želim opet da je posetim, posebno me privlači Maramures regija 🙂
Svaki region je zanimljiv… Nisam obišao Maramureš, bio u Klužu, to je malo južno i prošao potez uz našu granicu, pa od Temišvara, preko Bukurešta ka Konstanci… Baš su me Rumuni tada inspirisali, pa sam i na blogu napisao tekst posvećen njima. Mada sam se više bavio razmatranjem gde su oni, a gde mi… Odličan ti je ovaj tekst…
Hvala! Nadam se da ću i ja imati uskoro priliku sve to da vidim. A rado ću pročitati i tvoje tekstove!
Slobodno uđi kod mene i čitaj(možda i naiđeš na nešto što ti se dopadne).
A ovo je tekst posvećen Rumuniji: https://shonery.wordpress.com/2017/11/06/srbija-rumunija-eu/
Super tekst! Oduvek sam želeo da vidim Transilvaniju ❤
Hvala na čitanju!
Zanimljiv tekst, pun fantastičnih obrta.
Hvala 🙂 Ta situacija je jedna od onih kada se nađemo van zone komfora, a ne možemo se u istu vratiti već izvan nje moramo ostati. To su one situacije kada rastemo. Mislim da sam posle Copsa Mice porasla, dobila na samopouzdanju i shvatila koliko toga zavisi od našeg optimizma. Osmeh i pozitivne misli pomažu uvek 🙂
[…] u fioci. Ali, radio je, i napokon sam mogla da javim svima da sam živa i zdrava. Posle moje apokalipse u Transilvaniji u vozu mi se ispraznio telefon, a kako sam igrom slučaja ostala u Segešvaru, nisam imala […]
Mene Rumunija izuzetno privlaci iz nekog nepoznatog razloga..bio u Temisvaru i Bukurestu u uvek sam stekao neki utisak da su ljudi uplaseni, nepoverljivi prema strancima (cak i mladi) i nekako mi deluju tuzno da ne kazem nesrecno sa sve psima lutalicama i malim romima…prosto je neverovatno da dve komsijske zemlje tako malo znaju jedano o drugoj i da jos uvek vladamo stereotipima i predrasudama prema njima i obratno,.. hteo bih posetiti njihovu obalu Crno mora, cuo sam da se ide zeleznicom iz Bukuresta osam sati…
I mene je oduvek privlačila, a sad kad poznajem njen jedan mali deo- provlači me, iskreno, još više. Posebno delta Dunava i regija Maramureš. Hvala Vam na komentaru i čekam Vaše utiske iz Rumunije uskoro 🙂
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